Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Night Fishing, light set-up for boat


fishon68

Recommended Posts

I just wear a head lamp, the light from the stern light gives off enough to see to fish just not for tying up jigs or unhooking fish. I did install a large light upfront for traveling at night thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watch the Outdoor Pro Store for new LED lights in the near future. Either ones with a AA battery box or a ones with spade connectors to hook up to your battery.

Wow, that would be fantastic. I'm been considering putting then under the rail inside my boat this year and if theres a fairly cheap solution I'd love to know about it. My only concern was the best way to route power to one of my batteries and should be on the cranking or trolling motor battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got 2 sets of the LED rope lights from a Big C store in Owatonna. 6 feet long for only $15/per. I mounted them under the rail on each side, then connected the wires to the regular courtesy switch. It was actually very easy to mount and hook up, and they look awesome! I used them last night and was impressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a headlight that has red and white LED. I almost always use only the red LED at night cause it doesn't make your eyes dilate so much and you adjust back to the darkness much quicker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got 2 sets of the LED rope lights from a Big C store in Owatonna. 6 feet long for only $15/per. I mounted them under the rail on each side, then connected the wires to the regular courtesy switch. It was actually very easy to mount and hook up, and they look awesome! I used them last night and was impressed.

Fasternu, you said you connected them up to the courtesy switch... I'm assuming you're just talking the light switch for your stern and bow lights? Thats exactly what I'd be looking for I think. Is it as simple as splicing the wires in just behind the switch? I have fairly easy access to all my wiring right under the console.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaron,

You could hook them up that way, but I have a separate switch just for courtesy lights. I had a factory switch, but no interior lights. I just had to make sure I had power to it and then splice my light wires into it. You could hook them into your stern/bow lights, but then you might attract bugs being on constantly. You could pretty easily buy and add another switch to hook them to, just run the negative to the ground block, and the positive to the "back" of the switch. The switch itself would get hooked into the main lines coming into the rest of the switches, off the battery. Sounds confusing, but if I can do it, anybody can. It just took a little experimentation with a test light to find where to hook everything. I got some help on here when I started it, and people gave me enough suggestions to point me in the right direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use my stern light for some of the lighting at night. I also use a head set for some minor things( changing lures & jigs), I have a black& decker led light bar(rechargable trouble light) which is also 12 volts for badly hooked fish. Traveling at night is aided with a 12volt / rechargeable 1 million candlepower spotlight. Great for finding the shallow water bouys, and boats without lights.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do a lot of night fishing. My stern light is always on and is usually the only light that's on. We wear LED cap lights and use them as needed, they are very bright, very lightweight, and one great thing about them is the light is always shining where you need it. Other than that I have a couple tap lights that I rarely use, usually only when working on tangles or something like that. And a couple powerful flashlights or spotlights that are stored in an easy to get to place in case needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will soon be selling the Best HK waterproof LED strip lights that I have modified with 8 feet of heavier duty wire and alligator clips installed. Patent Pending. Easy to attach to any 12 volt Battery. Super bright and very low draw on the battery. Tested to last over 50 hours on a vexilar battery, and over 300+ hours (over 2 weeks straight) on a full size deep cycle battery. You can use Velcro to attach them anywhere you want. Very durable too.

If you have questions, email me at: mhsauer at arvig dot net.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took an old seat mount post(the one that attaches to the seat underneath.) I attached a scrap piece of plywood to that mount and I screw one of the bases that come with your coleman lanterns. I use a single mantle burner usually, Haven't tried the Northstar in the boat yet. It kicks out more than enough light and a little heat too........I put the table into a seat post so it doesn't get very high in the air....

the lantern top fits on one of my marker bouy holders and the propane goes in dry storage up front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.