Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Trollin226

Help just avoided a scam ?

13 posts in this topic

I have a younger brother going to college down in Iowa. While he is down their I have been letting him use a older car ( 97 Bonneville ) that I picked up for around town driving. While driving around a few days ago the car started sputtering and died with no restart. Talking on the phone with him I figured it was the fuel pump because of how it stopped as well as he could no longer hear it prime. He happened to be close to a private owned shop and pushed it their for them to look at. When I talked to the shop on the phone I was toled “ well you pretty much need a new engine “ When I asked for a reason I was put on hold for 5 min or so and when he came back on I was told “ the engine was overheated, is seized up, and does not have any more compression.” Not wanting to get into a argument about how they checked compression on a seized engine. Or the fact that the engine has never been overheated or ran low on oil. I had my brother pay the $40 checkup fee and then tow it to Chevrolet dealer. Whear it was diagnosed with a bad fuel pump that is being replaced as I type this. My question is do I have any recourse agenst this shop? I am having a hard time getting over the fact that someone would try to pull a scam like that...

Luke

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

only thing that I could think of is a report to the better business bureau about them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go for a drive and put his front teeth through his lip! Just kidding, I would call the shop and talk to the owner, hopefully its not the same guy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would do both! I would call the shop owner and make him aware of what happen, then I would report it to the BBB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would do all three things.....that would include the teeth thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Waste of time unless you have something in writing (like seriously conflicting diagnosis/repair orders from the two different shops) that supports your claim of one shop trying to scam you. Without this it's merely he said, she said. IMO, of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe take out an ad in the local paper thanking the chev dealer for properly diagnosing the problem when XYZ repair company told me the engine was shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe I'm just to easy, but personally, without more than word of mouth I might call the shop and say something. However, I think it's possible the XYZ shop could claim libel on you without any supporting documents to show the bogus diagnosis if you put something in public print like a newspaper.

In the big picture it's probably best just to move on. Yeah, sure, there is some principle involved here, but what is to be gained? Spend a couple hundred dollars worth of your time and some high blood pressure for recovery of $40 diagnosis fee?

It's not like the advice was taken and the engine was actually rebuilt, later finding out it was only the fuel pump. The bogus hit in the pocket was avoided by use of common sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So did your brother get the car back? I'd be checking the fluid levels just to be on the safe side. If that all checks out and it was just the fuel pump. Call the shop up and tell the owner that the car is at the dealer getting a new fuel pump. Then mention his diagnosis of a seized engine was wrong and could have cost you a lot of money or more then likely, reason to junk the car if you took his advice.

Ask him if he still thinks you should have to pay for that bad diagnosis.

If you get a refund, cool. If not file a complaint with the BBB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would hit the bbb up on that one. Places that do that kind of stuff give the rest a bad name. They should have some kind of consequence for doing that. It would take less than 10 seconds to tell if the engine is seized and its pretty hard to diagnose that one wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got off the phone with the owner of the shop. After a little conversation he refunded the checkout fee. It was kind of a interesting conversation he questioned why if their was a question about the service we payed it in the first place and picked up the car with no question. After I told him once I was told that the engine was seezed and had no compression I figured his shop was ( Poor word use ) and just wanted it out of thier...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that absolutely terrible. I would hope that it was a employee and not the actual shops procedure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you really wanted to hit the shop you could probably find out if its a preffered shop with any insurance companies or AAA. A complaint against it might cause them to lose or atleast drop ratings and in turn hurt their business.

A report to the BBB might send up a flag for AAA when its time to rate the shop again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors