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Broadhead suggestions


Lunker

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In the past I've used Muzzy, NAP, Rocky Mountain, Slick Tick, and Rocket broadheads. All of them performed well. I currently carry Slick Tricks, and Rocky Mountain Extreme(discontinued). This past winter I bought a set of the new Rocky Mountain Snyper 3-blade. I'll be using those this fall.

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Any broad head will do the trick as long as its strong and sharp and you put it where you are aiming!!!

Ive used expandables the last few years and done fine.. this year I will probably shoot something different though(out of expandables.. LOL)

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I have to agree with Dietz. Just about any broadhead on the market will do the job for you. The main reasons BH's don't fly true is because of the bow being out of tune or some sort of arrow contact. These minute problems don't show up with field points, but they get exaggerated with broadheads and longer distances.

I've used the Magnus Stinger and the G5 Striker both with great results. I was thinking about trying the Rage 2 blade, but I have no reason to change so it would be purely experimental.

About the only broadhead I've heard poor results about is the Muzzy 4 blade. The 3-blade Muzzy still remains a very popular and tested head.

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It should also be pointed out that whatever broadhead you choose, you should practice with them. It is not uncommon to find that broadheads(especially fixed blade)have a different impact point than your field tips. It may require some bow tuning.

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I started with Thunderheads and last year bought some Rage 2 Blades. Thunderheads were sharp and durable. Never had a shot at an animal with the Rage heads

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I have shot Muzzies for many years and have nothing but good things to say about them. I watched my son and a friend use the new Rage broadheads last season and I have never seen such an exit hole or blood trail from a arrow shot deer.

I will be changing to the Rage 2 blade this season. One then needs to practice with the broadheads to make sure they are tuned right.

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Guys.......Slick Trick doesn't make a 3 blade. If you are shooting a 3 blade slick trick you are missing part of the head and it sure isn't going to fly right

Slick Tricks have 4 blades, are all steel and are very good heads. They are cheaper than the G5 heads (Montec and Striker)and I have had good luck with them. Slick Tricks are my choice for fixed blade heads.

I like the Wasp Jak Hammer 100s with the 1.25 inch cut for mechanicals. The Steelheads would be another good choice for a mechanical. The 100 grain Steelhead has a smaller cut(1.125) but penetrates well and is tough for a mechanical.

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Quote:
Guys.......Slick Trick doesn't make a 3 blade. If you are shooting a 3 blade slick trick you are missing part of the head and it sure isn't going to fly right

I was wondering about the comments above myself. It left me scratching my head. I went to they're HSOforum and I didn't see any 3 blades.

Those Slick Tricks are one tough little broadhead. I drilled a big doe last fall and hit the opposite shoulder. It didn't pass through, but it busted up the shoulder. There was no visible damage to the broadhead. I just replaced the blades and it's back in the quiver.

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Oops, that would be my mistake. I confused the Slick Trick for a Muzzy.

My statement should have said the only head I've heard poor things about is the Muzzy MX-4. The MX-3 still gets great reviews.

Slick tricks have always been a popular head.

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I've shot several different heads over the last few years and I have seen nothing better so far than the Rocket Wolverines it is a 3 blade expandable and are about 25.00 for 3 and replacement blades are 8 bucks or so and those come with new screws also And as far as what weight head to shoot I guess to me that can turn into a big debate I started shooting a 75 grain head 3 years ago and to be honest you don't need anything more than that. To me the nicest part of shooting a light head is that you have a little bit bigger window for misjudging the yardage on an animal if you don't have a range finder or your yardages premarked.

They have a 1 1/8" cutting diameter and if you put it in the boiler room I will pretty much guarentee you that you will watch that animal fall and there will be one heck of a bloodtrail to your kill. Two years ago I shot a doe broadside at 40 yds and the arrow had so much penetration at only 55 lbs of draw weight it completely shattered the opposite shoulder blade and she went maybe 80 yds and was done.

I'm pretty sure somebody's gonna go HUH? Why such a light head and my answer to that is why not? What has more penetrating power a slow heavy arrow or a fast light one?

My arrows with tips weigh 385gr which is on the lighter side ,but make sure you take your poundage you will be shooting into consideration when buying arrows I personally shoot Goldtip Expidtion Hunters 5575 size

Good Luck in the woods and trust me you will love this sport and go to 3-D shoots if you get the chance it will great practice for you and practice,practice,practice you can't do it enough.

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Thanks for the tips all.

I realize most will do the trick, still like to hear what everyone's inkling is before I walk into that aisle packed with broadheads.

Looking forward to the fall season already and bass opener hasn't even occurred...

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I've had good luck with the Thunderheads over the years, dependable and easy to use. What I really like about them is the replaceable blades. My rule is that if they hit the ground, I replace the blades, I want sharp blades!!

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What has more penetrating power a slow heavy arrow or a fast light one?

A slow heavy arrow actually has more penetrating power than a fast light one. Look at the setup's that are used to shoot cape buffalo and elephants. They are 1000 grain arrows being pushed 250 fps. I shoot heavy setups and have got full penetration through the shoulders on both bear and deer. I don't intentionally aim there, but it's nice if you screw up.

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The rage 2 blade is the ticket. I was a muzzy man and then I tried the rage. I shot 2 does in one morning with the same head. Long story. They are strong, fly great, and leave a huge hole. The down side is they cost a pretty penny, and the open up in your quiver if your not careful. I think they are better than the spitfires or any nap head.

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No matter the brand, you must hunt with an extreamly sharp broadhead. Not sure of the MN regulation on cutting width.

But as being sharp, I mean scarry sharp. If you practice with what you hunt with make sure you can resharpen it, including bleeder blades. If it ain't sharp your chances of the impact are going to close up the hole quicker from rapid coagulation, as jagged edges from a dull blade will cause this.

I use Magnus 2 blade as they are one of the sharpest right out of the box [check youtube]and are lifetime replaceable...no questions asked. I have also used Bear brands years ago.

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