Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

3 1/2 or 3 in. shells?


longbeard34

Recommended Posts

I think most 3 1/2" shells don't have any more powder than 3". What that does is slows down the shot so maybe they don't hit quite as hard. Certainly more pellets, but at least in my gun, the extra pellets seem to be flyers, that is outside the normal pattern.

For me anyway, 3" is a better option. I shoot Federal Premium copper plated, buffered #5.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can kill a turkey with a 2 3/4 shell if he is close enough and your gun shoots a tight pattern with that load, I have shot a lot of turkeys and I like a winchester surpreme HV 3 1/2 copper plated 5's they pattern great in my gun and and give me a little more pattern density at the longer ranges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Technically 3.5 shells should pattern better than 3 inch in a 3.5 chamber.

Personally, I would use 3.5 shells if I had a 3.5 chamber but would certainly not buy a new gun if I already had a 3 inch.

I started with a 3, went to a 3.5, and back to a 3. Killed a bunch with both. The 3.5 hevi-shots were bad arse, right now I'm shooting the fed 5's like DonBo.

All in all to answer the initial question, I prefer 3.5 but not so much as to go buy another 3.5 as my 3 works fine. If I had more money and spent more time hunting other than a season or two here in WI, I'd get a 3.5.

Note - I got rid of the 3.5 because I didn't like the way it handled and pointed while coyote hunting. A separate gun for yotes would have worked but budget constraints only allow me one shotgun and I got a good deal on the 3.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can kill a turkey with a 2 3/4 shell if he is close enough and your gun shoots a tight pattern with that load, I have shot a lot of turkeys and I like a winchester surpreme HV 3 1/2 copper plated 5's they pattern great in my gun and and give me a little more pattern density at the longer ranges.

Exact same here. I get a better pattern with 3 1/2's than the same shell model in 3 inch out of the same gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

years ago I read a few articles about shot gun shell lenght. I wish I could find them. These articles stated that the longer shells do nothing but cost more, make more noise, and pound the shoulder more. The reasoning behind this was that it takes so much powder to push so much shoot and longer the shell the two components must balance each other to produce an effective kill at 40 yards because shotgun ballistics are far more constant then rifle/pistol. The only advantage would be a denser pattern? I'm not too awful educated on shotshells but, it was an interesting read.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I shoot 3-1/2" out of my SBE, After many patterns and days and a pile of shells I just determinded that the 3-1/2" is a better shell for me.

I completley understand that each gun will shoot a particular shell better then another. But hey!! isn't that part of the fun just out patterning the different shells.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a winchester superx2 and by shooting the winchester hv#5 it increased the effective range by 15 yards but it is still what you preffer. Hey Cooter I got your yote stopper try remington 3" #4 buck if it was legal for turkeys I'd be killing them at 60+ yards with that stuff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.