glenn57 Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 so,you going to plant your winter tomatoes next to the snow peas, are we? LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneau4 Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Ya just ran the snoblower,think next time I'll clear & plant the garden. My blankie gettin lots a use Boy I'm going to eat good this spring from your garden: Glacier tomatoes, Iceberg lettuce, Icicle radishes, snow pod peas, and home made ice cream. Thanks Sparce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Ya Juneau I'm tryin carp ice cream this year oughta be good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Berger Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Ryan Berger,I did my 1st garden ever last year in my backyard (residential area) I built 2 4x8 raised beds, 2x12's with landscape fabric under them. I filled them with a 50/50 mix of topsoil and manure. I planted 16 green bean (climbing), 6 bell pepper, 3 cherry tomato, 3 roma tomato plants in one box.The other box I planted 6 jalapeno, 3 habanero, 3 hot banana, 3 serrano and 3 super chili plants.I set up a spreadsheet to fill in when I picked everything and I got over 2000 items.I'm going to do a few less plants this next year in each bed and I'm going to probably make a new 4x8 bed this next year for cukes, etc.I had people in awe with how heathy and huge the tomato plants were. They were around 5 1/2 feet tall. THANKS sounds like a good idea, as I do have around 200 retaining wall blocks I need to use up, and free access to manure, I also really like the idea of the spreadsheet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I did the spreadsheet just so I know what I have too much or too little of for the next year.I froze around 500 hot peppers and have been thawing them half way before cutting them up to use. Otherwise they get too mushy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneau4 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I did the spreadsheet just so I know what I have too much or too little of for the next year.I froze around 500 hot peppers and have been thawing them half way before cutting them up to use. Otherwise they get too mushy. Hoggs have you ever tried cutting them to size you want when they're fresh and freezing them on wax paper on a cookie sheet. Bag them after frozen they don't stick together and you can use as many as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loosegoose Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Thanks, my skepticism is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huckfin Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I,ll be starting seed while watching the all day pregame. Going to try Legend and Siberian toms this year. Any feedback from any one who has tried these varieties ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 I've planted both of those.Siberian is a small plant.Didn't get a lot of tomatoes on for me.I have planted Legend for the past 5-6 years.Nice size tomatoes and fairly early.Being blight resistant is the main reason to plant it.Ripens shortly afte early girl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leechmann Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 When you transplant from smaller to larger containers,always pick off the leaves up to the top 2.Bury the stem up to the top.Tomatios are one of the few plants that will send out roots from the buried stem.Do the same when you transplant into the garden.The larger the rootball the better the plants will produce.Dig a shallow trench and lay the plant on its side and cover up to the top leaves.Put a dirt pillow under the top leaves.The plant will straighten itself out.Put a tablespoon of balanced garden fertilizer in the bottom of the hole.Mulch when the tomatoes start to appear to keep from getting blossom end rot.Add another Tbs of fertilizer when you mulch.I started my sweet onions today. Ken, I'm thinking you are the garden gooroo. I want to make sure I'm hearing you right. When you say lay the plant on it's side, I understand. The you say put a dirt pillow under the top leaves. What does this do? Do you mean a mound of dirt? Also wondering how mulch, keeps the plant from getting blossom end rot? Are you saying just put mulch around the base of the plant, or do you mean to work it in? Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickelfarmer Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Leechmann, I beleave what he means by a dirt pillow is, what ever you have left sticking out of the ground try to point it UP in the right direction (towards the sky) very gently, don't brake open the stem trying to bend it up. I have tried this in the past two years and it works GREAT. I guess I just never thaght to post it??? It really does work. The stem of the plant sprouts roots and gives the plant that much more support to grow. When you do this don't worry about the small amount that you have sticking out of the soil. soon you will see the "Grounded" (as I call it) plant pass up the normal plant that was planted with the stem above ground and in the end it will produce more. As far as mulch, this keeps the tamatoes from sitting on the ground directly. that way they don't rot on the soil. And yes Ken seems to be the goo rue!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan7600 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Ken W is right about the mulch. Blossom end rot is caused by lack of moisture at the time of fruit set, right at the blossom stage, so mulch would help with the moisture. I like trickle irrigation to keep them happy. Too much manure can cause lots of foliage and not so much fruit. Lack of calcium in the soil can also cause blossom end rot but that is much less common. Stan C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leechmann Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Thanks guys. You guys really got it down to a science. I can't wait to give it a try. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 leechman.....they are correct.Dig a shallow trench and lay the plant down in it.Cover up all the stem up to the top leaves or blosoms if it has any.Prop those up with a dirt pillow to start it growing up again.As Pickel says.....careful you don't snap off the stem.It will grow upward.Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium.This can happen from not enough water or to much water.The plant takes care of itself first and will rob the calcium from the fruit causing a brown rubbery bottom on the tomatoes.Don't put the mulch down until the plant has fruit.It wants warmth at first.I am planting 11 different varieties this year....Early DollLegendSweet Baby GirlBeaver Lodge SlicerBeaver Lodge PlumGlacierSauceyTaxiLemon BoyDeliciousHealth Kick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leechmann Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Thanks Ken. I thought I knew a little about gardening, but reading the treads on this site makes me realize that I'm still a novice. Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 No problem.....any other questions......just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan7600 Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Ken, Do you know what causes grey-wall in tomato fruit? We never could figure out if it was fertility or what. We used to grow the variety Jetstar for market and it became a problem when we switched farms. The soil was some different. No soil test was done. Thanks, Stan C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Sorry....no I've never seen it on any of my tomatoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovebigbluegills Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 When you guys start your tomatoes, what is the preferred soil? I've always used potting soil (because that's what my dad always used). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loosegoose Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 I used those dehydrated pucks, I believe they are peat soil. I started my tomatoes on the 8th and they are about two to three inches high. How long should I wait before I transplant them to a larger container? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyboyd Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Ok, I started my tomatoes last sunday and they are a popping. I am completely new to gardening, when I moved into my house 3 years ago I tilled up the gardend and planted grass... I want to have the best tomatoes I can. Here is what I have now, what do I need to do? I have a 72 slot starting tray with 3-6 plants in each slot.. I only have one window on the south side of the house where I can put them, can I move them downstairs when I repot and use florescent lights? Any and all help is appreciated!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quetico Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Turn the try on occasion so they grow straight. Let them get larger while in the original trays. I don't know if this has been mentioned or not in this long thread- once you plant them outside, plant them sideways. Lay them in the hole so that only the top few branched are above ground. Crazy idea, yeah but it works great. The long stem being below ground roots out completely. You get a smaller plant at first but those roots cause the plant to grow huge quickly. You end up with a plant on steroids because of it excessive roots. You would be amazed. Its a common way of planting tomatoes so I'd be shocked if no one on here has ever heard of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Quetico is right.I descibe how to plant tomatoes like that on the first page of this thread.Putting tomatoes or any other plant in a window is not the best way to get them going.They just don't get enough light and can get tall and spindly.The best way is to put them under a florescent light,with the light about 2 inches or so over the plants.billyboyd.....a 72 slot tray with 3-6 plants in each??? Wow!!!! That's 200-400 plants.You must really like tomatoes.I also started mine a week ago and they look the same as yours do.They are under lights in the basement.I've got 11 different varieties growing and plan on putting out 2 of each.I also have broccoli,cauliflower,pak choi,cabbage,kohlrabis,and romaine lettuce under lights.Are yours all the same variety?How many plants are you looking at planting out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyboyd Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 I just bought 3 different kinds, a tray and some soil. I planted one seed in each tray, and had a ton left over,so I planted them all. I only plan on planting the ones that look really healthy, and giving a bunch away to friends that will be making the salsa with me. I do not even have a garden at this point, I planted grass in it as stated before. I have a area around 25x25 I plan on using, I am thinking I might want to plant some other veggies as well. I will move them downstairs to a shelf with adjustable light today. I am thinking of going to the store and getting some other seeds. I need peppers for the salsa I am going to make, and I think I read that it is ok to freeze them after picking them untill the tomatoes are done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEN W Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 OK.....so you have 72 slots with at least 1 plant in each.Right now they have seed leaves on them.When you have at least 2 tomato leaves on them you need to pinch out all but the strongest one in each.How big are each of the squares?You will most likely have to transplant each into a larger container in about 4 weeks or so.Bury as much stem as you can and fill up with soil.10-14 days before you plan to put them out you will need to move them out into the sun.A few hours at first and gradually all day.You will have to bring them in at night if it get to cold.They will wilt at first,but they will get aclimated after a few days.When you plant in the garden do as I reccommend on the first page. What variety do you have?It makes a difference what they are since some need staking or should be caged.You mentioned peppers.....you should start them immediately.They take longer to germinat than tomatoes.I start mine all in one flower pot and then transplant later.I usually plant early bells and early jalepenos.Since I also make a lot of salsa.You will also need onions if you make salsa.The best ones I've found are plants in onion boats.The best variety for this climate is Candy.They are mild and great raw in salads and on burgers.Plant them about 2 inches apart in wide rows that are wide enough to reach the middle from each side.Each individual row should be 6-8 inches apart winthin the wide row.Start pulling every other one out when they are big ehough to use as green onions.Keep doing that until they are 6-8 inches apart.any more questions,just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.