So the last couple outings I have become increasingly frustrated with Lowrance products. And the thing is I take really good care of all my electronics. (take them out of the boat when not in use, clean the screens etc.) When they work-there great, but here's the deal...
First off, last year I had to send in a 334igps because the gps was screwed up AND the sonar was blinking constantly (new 'ducer didn't help it). Now this year I have a LMX 20C and the same is happening. When trying to work a drop off for example it's almost impossible. I only get a depth reading like every 10 seconds or so... otherwise it just blinks the last depth reading and the sonar log is a garbled mess.
I know it's not ANY of the wiring or the transducer because I plugged the 334 into the same spot and that worked PERFECT. So it HAS to be the unit, right? Does any one have any other ideas?
To top it off, I work at a local outdoors retailer and you would be surprised at how many people have this and other problems with Lowrance.
I must be a glutton for punishment 'cause I also own and H20C, and an iway 250! I' sure it's only a matter of time before one of those go bad too!?
Sorry for the rant, but anyone have any (constructive) ideas or thoughts?
If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets. Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome. You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.
24V 80lb. 60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat. They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
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LakeTahoe
So the last couple outings I have become increasingly frustrated with Lowrance products. And the thing is I take really good care of all my electronics. (take them out of the boat when not in use, clean the screens etc.) When they work-there great, but here's the deal...
First off, last year I had to send in a 334igps because the gps was screwed up AND the sonar was blinking constantly (new 'ducer didn't help it). Now this year I have a LMX 20C and the same is happening. When trying to work a drop off for example it's almost impossible. I only get a depth reading like every 10 seconds or so... otherwise it just blinks the last depth reading and the sonar log is a garbled mess.
I know it's not ANY of the wiring or the transducer because I plugged the 334 into the same spot and that worked PERFECT. So it HAS to be the unit, right? Does any one have any other ideas?
To top it off, I work at a local outdoors retailer and you would be surprised at how many people have this and other problems with Lowrance.
I must be a glutton for punishment 'cause I also own and H20C, and an iway 250! I' sure it's only a matter of time before one of those go bad too!?
Sorry for the rant, but anyone have any (constructive) ideas or thoughts?
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