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FM Ultimate Fish House


deadminnowcatcher

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I would certainly wire it for 120 volts and just run a generator all the time and say the [PoorWordUsage] with bateries,just my opinion. build the ceiling high enough to accomodate a ceiling fan,lights in the hole are nice but I got sick of repairing mine so I installed track lighting and have a head above each hole which is nice.build it as wide as you possibly can and recess the wheel wells.put a catch cover in the center for the aqua view mopod. oh yeh and get a vented heater. enjoy I look forward to seeing the pics

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Between friends houses and my houses we have had over the years, which include: 8X12, 16, 20, 24+V. Out of all those sizes my favorite is the 16'. IMO a 16'+V with 8 fish holes would be ideal. The larger houses are very nice, but they can much more of a bear to move around and get on/off the ice.

I'd like to see some pics of the other ideas out there. I am giving my 8x12(6 holer) a major facelift this summer. All im keeping is the floor/frame and the studs in the walls. I will be adding a v-front, doing something with the wheels/let down system and new interior/exterior.

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I'm new here and have been reading this forum with interest..I've had 9 wheelhouses from 8x8 to 9x18. All the square fronts pull hard. The house I have now is 7x18 plus the v so it's 21.5 it weighs about 3500 lbs loaded and has both a v front and a sloped roof. I sloped the roof 3/4 inch per running foot. It goes down the road like a bullet. By far the easiest house I've ever pulled.

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deadminnowcatcher,

I just went through the same process, size vs. weight, etc. I ended up buying a Profish Enterprises kit house (same construction as the Aqua-view house listed in the classifieds). I bought a 6x16. It is a little smaller than I originally wanted, but I really want to be able to get out earlier in the season by towing with the atv so I opted for the lighter house. I was really sold on their frames, they are really stout. I was able to get the frame unpainted, so I'm getting it powder-coated.

Now I'm shopping for lights (12V led), an invertor, battery charger, an rv sofa/bed, etc.

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well, I started today by ordering 3 wench's, the leaf springs and i found a set of spindles for free. Also bought a stove/oven that I found for half price that is new but a scratch and dent that you gotta look hard to find the scratch. Got this from Jakes in Fairmont.

This would be a good thread to post at the top or have a seperate forum for it as I think alot of guys will find it very usefull in building a fish house and what to expect it to cost. If one of the HSOforum powers to be reads this maybe they could do this??

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If ur not gunna sandwich the foam and just go with sprayed exposed, then by no means will the 1/2 in be thick enuf! 5/8 at a minium is what i recommend, or else ur gunna run into problems with bowing and flexing real bad! I say 3/4 good kiln dried plywood and no OSB, that stuff will suck up water like a sponge!

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I noticed that everyone is talking about the floor being treated. I know that it works great. I have to wonder what everyone is doing with the way they changed how they treat plywood. I work in the building industry. The new treating will corrode if it comes in contact with usually anything metal that is not hot dipped galvanized. Our siders can not have aluminum come in contact with the stuff, and galvanized will corrode as well. What has everyone done to get around this? I don't know if the marine grade has changed at all, or what kind of treated material is everyone using?

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That raises a good point, what does happen when the treated plywood comes into contact with the steel frame? Yes sure i understand the whole stainless fasteners, but what about all that wood and metal contact where the wood sheeting sits on top of the entire metal frame? Thats the whole thing!

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    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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