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Planting new tree in front yard?


hoggs222

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We lost our only tree in our front yard during the storm 3 years ago. I miss the look of a tree/the shade that it provided for the house. What is a decent looking tree that grows a little quicker than others? I wouldn't be opposed to getting something on the larger size to plant.

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There are a couple things that could decide differently, but I think maples are probably the best shade tree you can get as far as shade, growth and the least likely to have disease/insect problems. The do have their downsides with helicoptors, but every tree has a seed, some are more annoying than others.

I hate trimming ash trees, but they do grow well and provide nice shade. They tolerate a lot of conditions and can be perfectly healthy trees if maintained.

If it were me and I was planting just one tree I would go with an autumn blaze maple, green ash or red maple, in that order.

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You can't really avoid all ashes now just because of Emerald Ash Borer. There is EAB, Dutch Elm Disease, Oak Wilt, Verticilium Wilt (maples), Bronze Birch Borer......

Like I said before, every tree has some enemies, just some trees are more resistant than others.

I wouldn't plant all ash trees, but having one in there for variety wouldn't hurt.

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Like Powerstroke said, if you were to not plant a certain plant material because it could possibly get a disease and die, then you would have nothing to plant. Everything in one way or another could get a disease and die.

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I was going to start a topic on this because we need to replace a tree in our backyard that came down in a storm last summer. I know next to nothing on this, so the tips are helpful. Now I have some trees to research. \:\) Thanks everyone!

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Remember, Ash trees usually drop almost all there leaves at first frost. No helicopters and little mess. They do however need to be trimmed inside (dead branches) often.

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Actually, unless you have a seedless ash, there are "helicopters." They are straight though, not the "J" shape of the maple seeds. I strongly second Ole's comment about a lot of dead branches, they keep arborists in business.

I know others have weighed in on the emerald ash borer (EAB) issue and the topic of whether to plant ash trees, so I'll ramble a little, too. It will get here, but when is the big question. Unless an effective control can be found, it will be absolutely devastating to the state's ash trees. Almost a quarter of the urban trees are ashes, and MN has the largest natural population of ash trees in the lower 48. There was some optimistic talk of being able to use an existing systemic insecticide (imidacloprid) to preventively treat trees, but the praises have diminished. I personally don't recommend that people plant ash trees, unless they are ok with the possibility that it could die before maturity (or even adolescence). With the large existing pop. of ashes, I don't think a person would be making the situation worse by planting ash trees, just not an investment of time and money that I would make.

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The Autumn Blaze is the beautiful eye catching tree for the front. But I have worked with too many tree guys who complain about the lack of Oaks in our landscape.

Try an oak for you backyard. My area in Eagan got hit really bad in a August storm. The only trees that weren't damaged were oaks. Most Oaks you will find are native to MN. They are slower growing but will be the most prized tree on your property.

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I totally agree. Maybe the "hundreds of years" comment was a little much, but as far as a nice sprawling bur oak....Even my grandkids won't get to play on it.

I don't know that I've ever seen a swamp white bigger than 4" DBH.

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The rural nursery we looked at in the fall had a number of maples that it has bred with rubrum qualities. You can pick one with the autumn color qualities you like. They are best transplanted in the spring and are a bit more spendy than the trees you'll but at the in-town stores.

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I'm not a tree expert person or anytyhing, but I like the shade from maples but man do you have to clean up leaves from those buggers, particularly the huge silver maples I've had before, is the autumn blaze going to have as many leaves to clean up?

I also really like Linden trees, anybody have any thoughts on those?

Oaks are awesome, but like has been said, they are THE SLOWEST things around. We have a lot at our cabin which we've had for 30+ years and the ones that were small then are only medium now... It would be a great thing for the grandkids, but not much for you now.

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Thanks again to all for the suggestions in this topic. This past Saturday I ordered 2 Autumn Blaze Maples to be put into our back yard. They should be in sometime next week.

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I have a Swamp White Oak that is actually growing at a decent rate. I planted it 6 years ago at 2 1/2" cal. and it is around 4-5" now. I achieve 12-15" of growth on the branches each year. it is around 18-20' tall right now and has a fantastic canopy. I have some on jobs we planted 15 years ago at 2 1/2-3" and are close to 10" caliper and 25' tall. I planted an Autumn Blaze 10 years ago at my house that was 3" and it is close to 10" cal. right now and 25-30' tall. They are beautiful trees and I use them a lot in my plans as my clients want a fast gorwing shade tree, but I temper them with other more desirable trees to be mixed in. Too often they want to use multiple trees of the same species (as in Autumn Blaze) but I like to mix in a Norhtwoods Maple or Linden or Oak also as they are native species and harder/stronger specimens less prone to storm damage. I also have Norhtwoods Maples and a Greenspire Linden planted in 1996 as 2 1/2" that are now 8-10" cal. and 20' tall.

When choosing your tree species it helps to know your soil conditions. If your yard is a heavy compacted clay type soil, I'd shy away from most oaks as they do best in a more open organic soil. They may survive and eventually take-off, but they will need to establish a good root system prior to any 'real growth'. I find it best in these situations to dig the hole at least double the diameter of the root ball and ammend the existing soil with 50% compost and some root stimulator and starter fertilizer. This gives the tree the cance to get a good foot hold and a start to developing a root system and the chance to bring up nutrients so it can begin the process of increasing it's canopy and production of food.

Good Luck!

Ken

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I would mix it up a little. Try not to put all your eggs in 1 basket. If a new disease or pest comes thru and you only have one kind of tree you could lose all your trees instead of one. Just a thought.

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