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About fishingforester

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 09/12/1978

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    Watertown, MN
  1. You can do this (or magnified) if you use the muzzy during rifle season, but not during muzzy season.
  2. BobT-Technically, all the trees you listed are in the pine family (Pinaceae), but it IS frustrating when people call in with symptoms of their evergreen, and they don't know if it is a pine, spruce, fir, cedar, etc. Makes over-the-phone diagnostics a struggle. Another one for boxelder is ash-leafed maple.
  3. Many places out there that offer the training. Class requirements mandate that there is both classroom instruction along with a range session. Class I took was 50 rounds, but probably varies; not sure if there is a required minimum. Class including range session was approx 6 hrs. for me. Bear: As long as you aren't in an area that prohibits firearms, no problems. Cased and unloaded, you are fine; one fine point though (to be picky), don't have the ammo IN the case with the gun.
  4. Well said, Powerstroke. I personally know some small guys that do use door-knocking as way of getting business, and they are good people that do quality work. Unfortunately, I have also met with a lot of prospective clients that found out the hard way that not everyone is legit.
  5. Quetico is right, but there is one that I know of on the U of MN campus (East Bank if I recall) and it was of decent size. If you are set on trying one out, it is worth trying find a source of trees that is as far north as possible and putting the tree in a protected spot.
  6. I had heard that too. Probably more factors such as time of year playing into the big picture. Seven or eight months till majority of people will be thinking about buying a rifle. Interesting observation though. Wonder if I can turn that into justification of a purchase that will get the wife's approval. I'm guessing NO.
  7. Thanks straydog and Craig. Wish I had a heated garage...
  8. I don't have the heart to be the 4th in a row to recommend Polaris after you mention being partial Cat (although I do agree with the previous responses), so I will keep it more general. Either the 440 or 500 class should be adequate to pull a portable house. Traction will probably be a bigger concern. For a sled from the era that you will be choosing, make sure the track isn't worn down too far. Long track or 2-up machines will will get more traction, but aren't necessary. I have a standard length (121"), but with 1.25" deep lugs, and it works good for me.
  9. Nice buck gonefishing! Definitely wall-worthy. Welcome (belated) to the FM forums, lots of good folks here that have great info and experiences to share.
  10. Thanks guys! To answer deep_sinker, I did have the carbs cleaned last year, and the jerky movement started right after I had burnt the belt (which I now see I failed to mention in orig post, inadvertently made it sound like it just started this year). The fuel suggestion is plausible but, having experienced what I was trying to describe, I am pretty sure the issue is in the drive system. Mike, you answered the question I was most concerned with--whether I could cause other damage by running a damaged belt. Thanks again.
  11. Good info from all responders. Not trying to hijack the thread but I have another belt performance question. Last year, I had to tow a sled a little ways with mine. I did smell a little burnt rubber, but not an excessive amount. Now when I slowly get on the gas, there is a little hitch in my giddyup, sled kinda lurches forward with short, jerky movements. Get on the gas solidly, and no hesitation. I'm guessing I probably burnt some flat spots on the belt. Do I need to change the belt, or just leave it be and change it when/if it fails? FWIW, I have a 600XC. Thanks!
  12. Yep, Powerstroke is right on target. For those not familiar with branch collars and proper pruning cuts, there are many pics and illustrations online. Pickelfarmer is on the right track that it is wrong to cut flush against the trunk, but there isn't a set measurement to stay away from the trunk. Location of the cut is dictated by the location of the branch collar. Because Ma Nature likes to throw a curve once in awhile, not every branch will have a collar. If you are unsure of the exact location of the cut, it is best to leave it a little long (stub) rather than cutting it too short (flush cut). On timing, dormancy is the best. You may have sap flow, depending upon temperature fluctuations, but there is no health issue when the trees "bleed". They lose a little bit of sugar, but it is not going to have an adverse effect. Consider that in the syrup biz, people are purposely draining sap from trees.
  13. Nice pics dspohn, wish I woulda seen something like those during muzzy season. I use Imageshack for posting pics. They do have a spot to upload video, but I have never tried. Guessing it works the same as uploading pic...
  14. I know, I head-scratched about that too. I resigned myself to accept the graph for the relationship illustrated rather than the raw numbers. But I also brought to mind pictures of the Brainerd fishing contest, and that ice is honeycombed with Strikemaster signatures.
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