Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Fiberglass siding for fish house?


redhooks

Recommended Posts

I'm in the process of building a crank down house and wqas looking at the siding on RV's. I called Winnebago and they sell rolls of fiberglass siding 8' x 15-30' for about $25/roll. The guy on the phone said it would be easy enough to screw or glue these down and that they should be all weather since campers are meant to be. Anyone Have any experienece with this stuff? The price is right just wondering if it's durabe enough and easy enough to work with. If not anyone have any ideas for an alternative. Otherwise I found flat aluminum is about 40$ 4x8 sheet at the fishhouse store. Any ideas?

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would double-check what that guy told you. I was looking into reskinning my camper and the stuff used today on campers is called Filon. Yes, some type of fiberglass material but, I was told it's very expensive. You'll need outside backing material (plywood) to glue this Filon to, not just glued or screwed to studs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Dave-

It was through the surplus dept so maybe it was in less than perfect shape. I was kinda skeptical when the guy on the phone said I could just glue/screw to the studs, and they don't ship so I guess I won't be driving to Iowa for siding. Stlll hoping to find some cheaper than $40/sheet.

Anyone have any other ideas for affordable siding?

redhooks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not use vinyl siding. Its easy to install and easily repaired. Just about any vinyl will get you 25 years. I have vinyl on my Ice Castle and there have been no problems in 5 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Redhooks, I have fiberglass siding on my house. I bought it already finished, so I can't tell you what the cost was. I do like it though as it is seamless and easy to clean. I believe it was glued over 1/4" plywood. If you can get it for $25.00 a roll, I would go for it. Even with the plywood you are still money ahead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

If you can get it for $25.00 a roll, I would go for it. Even with the plywood you are still money ahead.


Hmmmm, It's a long way from Grand Rapids to IA and with the price of gas as it is, the point that it is not cheaper may be getting nearer. Food for thought! I have a Jimmy and can still get $40.00 worth of gas in it! Pretty sad huh! Take care and N Joy the Hunt././Jimbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have fiberglas siding on both of our houses and I probably won't put it on another one. I does get wavy over time even glued to plywood and stored inside when not in use. Also, it cracks (we have 3 cracks on one of our houses now). The advantages are easy to clean and we have a painted design on the side so it looks nice but I would go with vinyl or steel before fiberglass again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used aluimum sofit material for the siding on my fish house bought it at menards comes in a 50' roll and is 24" wide, I built a frame to pull it tight so it has almost no ripples in it and screwed it to the studs, it is a lot lighter than steel and should last a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I remembered seeing both perforated and un-perforated soffit when I replaced mine two years ago. A quick trip to menards should solve the question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GUS,

That could very well be... I have only seen the soffit material come in 8'-10' lengths roughly 18" wide with the perforations for venting. This is only my experiences with it. Menards will definetly have a better answer. I am no pro.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am guessing he used what is called Coil Stock. Same material as facia and soffit but in a nice roll. As for siding if I had the money for siding i would definately use steel siding and not the vinyl as said before vinyl can get waves in it if it is nailed to tight or glued on because of how it expands and shrinks. I would think about just putting on some polebarn steel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.