Put the floor in on my fish house..

[Kylersk]

Took alot longer than I thought. Spent all day Friday and Saturday working on it.

[tjm]

Hey kylersk

Looks good so far.I hear ya on the time.I just got a new 16'v trailer on friday.Spent the last 2 days laying out my floor plan.Still at ground O on what to do with my holes wont line up the way my ideas are as of now.

How many holes are ya puting in also is that a 14'?

Then about an hour ago i found out i might need to get rid of it.Job offer in Alaska is calling for the summer.Dont ya just wish it was October and money fell from the sky

[Bobby Bass]

Got to love the wife's vacuum out on the driveway!

[Kylersk]

Yeah.. I need a shop vac. =)

The main rectangle is 14' then there's a 3' V in front. Seems everyone has a different idea on what size the trailer is. I've heard it called 16', 17' and 14' with V front. *shrugs*

I think I'll go with 6 holes in the floor.

[nytelyter]

for insurance reasons i would call it a 17". ... paul

[hovermn]

17", eh? Call it a hitch rack? jk

I always say that my fish house is 10' with a 3 foot V nose. There's a small chance that it'll be stretched to 12' and an even slimmer chance that it'll go 14' this summer. ShawnnyB and I didn't put in an insulated floor and I kinda wish we had, so maybe that'll go in as well.

Lookin' good so far! I'm curious why you put those 2X4's so close together near the nose? Added support near the door?

Is it December yet?!?!

[Kylersk]

Quote:

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I'm curious why you put those 2X4's so close together near the nose? Added support near the door?

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It was a last minute decision. I plan on putting a wall up 12" behind the V to make that a 'bathroom' like area. Teh extra 2x4 will give me something solid to screw teh wall into.

[LODFFB]

Here is what I did for a floorplan. I did it in paint. Yes I had time on my hands. Every 12 dots was 6 inches and 24 was a foot so you could get pretty good idea of the layout. But the door swings out.

[image][/image]

[End of the Line]

My frame will be done at the end of the month. I thought about my layout so many times and have changed my computer design program thousands of times to get everything where I want it. That's why I had a custom built frame. The house frame is designed around the holes & layout, not the other way around. Going to be 8'x16' plus a semi-V nose front to 19'

Nice work, and I am sure your enjoying this nice weather to do it in!

[hovermn]

I've thought about doing that, too. It would make a great place for cool storage and hanging jackets and boots, too.

Lookin' good!

[coldmark]

Thanks for the pics. It's nice to see how guys do stuff the right way. I wasn't sure how to insulate the floor, now I know. Keep us updated on your progress.

Is the floor bolted to the trailer?

[Kylersk]

Quote:

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Thanks for the pics. It's nice to see how guys do stuff the right way. I wasn't sure how to insulate the floor, now I know. Keep us updated on your progress.

Is the floor bolted to the trailer?

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Oh, I dont know if mine is the right way.. I just ask alot of questions and then make a decision.

So far, I used coated self tapping screws to screw down the first layer of plywood and the 2x4's. The top layer is screwed down to the 2x4's (mainly because I couldnt find long enough self tappers in time). I'll then screw my walls down and throw a few bolts in(through everything steel frame and floor) for extra support.

[riverrat56]

So now how do you put the holes in?

In my house we just cut them with a circular skill saw, but that wouldn't work with an insulated floor.

[Rainman]

SAWZ-ALL!!!!!

[hanson]

Good ole Reciprocating saw!!

What I did was drill a series of holes big enough for the Sawzall blade to slip through around the perimeter of the hole. I then just connected the dots and had a perfect hole.

If I didn't do this, the sawblade ended up cutting at an angle as I went around the radius and I had a hole with a larger diameter on the bottom than the top. Either it was a result of a dull blade or operator error but I found drilling some starter holes and connecting them with the sawzall to be the easiest.

I assume you are putting Catch Covers in your house as well Kylersk. They are a very nice way to finish off the holes and secure the carpet around them, even if you cut them a little rough.

[nytelyter]

i did notnuse catch covers as they were now available when i built my shack. i framed out the holes with 2x2 so there would be no insulation showing aand marked and saved the top cut outs. then i took 1x3 and over framed them so they would set back into place.works great and i can screw them down for summmer storage. so the critterz cant get into the house from below. ... paul

ps i also mabe my holes 15x15 inches this allows the heat to them better and they freeze up less often and helps with the occasional auger jump. for hole lighting i used surface mounted liscence plate lights mounted in the corner with a block of wood that accomedates the switch assy for the hole, and keeps them out of the way from the auger as well.

[Kylersk]

Ok, got the walls up this weekend.

[Crestliner-fever]

KylersK so have you got a clue what you might have for weight in this Bad Dog? look's like it might be one heavy Mama, How Big is this going to be?

[Kylersk]

I think the trailer alone will weigh in at 500#'s or better. Not sure on the rest yet.. The house is 14 x 6.5' with a 3' V front. Overall length is 17'. I built it 6'8" tall, inside measurement..

[hanson]

Looks good dude!

So far, there isn't too much that I see that would be adding extra weight. Looks like a little extra in the floor with the sandwich panel construction & insulation and maybe a few extra studs in the walls but you really can't cut too much more out at this point.

Rafters are next I assume and then are you going to side it? What are you using for siding?

When you start putting rigid insulation in the stud cavities, you'll notice the house will really become rock solid.

Are you going to install a poly vapor barrier on the inside? Tyvek on the outside? I built my house without this and I'm wondering if I made a big mistake. I really think the poly on the inside behind the paneling is a must have. I get a lot of moisture/frost in my paneling and I think the poly would have helped with that.

What are you using for heat? My Empire Direct Vent needed some additional blocking and framing in the wall. Now is the time to figure out where that is and get it installed as well.

Looks like fun!

[Chad Halvorson]

You should put a vapor barrier on the inside, looks good!

[Kylersk]

Yeah.. I'm leaning toward putting my roof on. Then the inside paneling, wiring, insulation, houserap, and finally siding. I'm leaning towards vinal right now because of cost. I'm prolly going to have to temp cover the outside with a tarp or something until I can finish the siding and such.

Never even thought about the Vapor Barrier, thanks for the tip. I did plan on using house rap though.

I also plan on buying an empire direct vent.. I thought when I read the instructions you only needed 1 stud to support it, but I'll double check.

[JohnMickish]

I would change the order of assembly. Put the outside/roof and and then work on the inside. Mock up your lights, cabinets and so on before you put on the panelling so you can see where you really want stuff. Sit in it and drink a few beers with your friends and see if it works where stuff is before you screw everything down permanently, especially since this is the first one you have built.

[Kylersk]

I thought about that, but doesnt the paneling help hold the walls square since I'm not using any outside plywood?

[hanson]

After building my house, I would actually go with the process you are thinking about Kylersk- inside to out.

I know it sounds stupid but I think it is a better way to do it. When I build my next house, thats how I'm probably going to do it and then I'll know for sure if it was a stupid idea or not.

I just think it is going to be a lot easier & cleaner to wire everything into the house that way.

I dunno?? Just my 2 cents...