Big Dave2 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 I've got a 6.5' x 12' wheel house that I built about 10-12 years ago and I want to re-do the inside before next year's ice season. I'm thinking about replacing the un-vented heater I have in there now for a vented forced air RV furnace but I have a few questions. What size furnace do I need? How long will the furnace last on a deep cell battery when I don't want to run a generator? Any other type of vented heater I should consider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawg Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 If you go with a wall mount you don’t have to worry about electricity, and you can install the fan kit on it when you do have electricity. I would go at least 20,000 BTU, insulation In those days isn’t what it is today. Plus no furnace is 100% efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl_sd Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 My house is a 6.5 x 14 plus v. I have a suburban Nt-20SEQ. It is not ducted, although they do make a a ducted model. It heats my house up really quick, but I also have spray foam from top to bottom. Depending on how you insulated it, you may be able to get by with a 16k BTU, but it draws the same amps as the 19k. Going the none ducted model saves you 0.4 amps. https://www.airxcel.com/suburban/products/furnaces/ntq-p-series/ntq-series-medium-rvs Back to your question though..... How many AmpHour is your battery? As a starting point, I suggest that you assume that your furnace is going to be running 40% of the time. It is all dependent on how well you are insulated, but it is a starting point. Usually for a 12v Deep Cell battery, only 50% of the AH is usable... So if you had a battery with 100 AH, you have 50 usable. If the furnace draws 2.7 amps and runs 40% of the time that means that you are using 1.08 amps every hour - meaning that you should be able to run about 50 hrs on a battery. I have used both types. Here are some of the pros and cons of each type... Direct Vent Wall Furnace (aka Empire) Pros No battery usage Quiet heat Cons Takes up more room (both inside and outside of the house) Not very even heat (the guy sitting next to the heater always bakes...) More expensive than a fan forced Power vent fan-forced Furnace (aka Suburban) Pros Heats quickly and evenly Keeps floor warmer due to fan Can be configured in a small space Cons Noisier than a wall unit (although the new suburban models with the "q" in the name draw less juice and are a lot quieter) Requires power to run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lip_Ripper Guy Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 These guys pretty much covered it. The Suburban NT20SQ is a good unit, and is nice and quiet, without drawing a ton of power. If you are needing batteries soon, I'd highly suggest picking up the (2) GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries from Sam's Club for around $85/each. That'll get you 230 amp hours, so you can run an easy 3-4 day weekend without drawing down your batteries too much. Plan your cabinet to have adequate return air venting, and clearance around the furnace and vents. Acoustic foam makes a huge difference in terms of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fathom Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Do those batteries need to be vented? And would you run them in series or parallel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl_sd Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 They would be ran in series in order to get 12 vdc. Yes, they need to be vented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbound Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 I built a 6 x 10 skid house and have no problem heating with a Suburban 16K forced air heater. I run it off a 100ah 31 series battery from my boat. I charge it with a Renogy 100w solar panel Nice system, works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dave2 Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) 9 hours ago, Hawg said: If you go with a wall mount you don’t have to worry about electricity, and you can install the fan kit on it when you do have electricity. I would go at least 20,000 BTU, insulation In those days isn’t what it is today. Plus no furnace is 100% efficient. Are you talking about an Empire or something else? Is it possible to have a wall hanging vented heater with a blower that you don't have to run if you are low on battery power? That may be ideal if it exists. Edited January 23, 2018 by Big Dave2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl_sd Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 22 minutes ago, Big Dave2 said: Are you talking about an Empire or something else? Is it possible to have a wall hanging vented heater with a blower that you don't have to run if you are low on battery power? That may be ideal if it exists. As far as the blower goes.. I don't think that Empire makes a 12VDC version... maybe some of the others do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishingstar Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I have a Empire that I use in a 12" homemade wheel house. They don't make a blower for 12v just 110. I have 2 computer fans and a 12" ceiling fan to move the air. If it is real cold out it does take some time to warm it up. I have the 15000 btu and I paid around 650 two years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackLabGuy Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 We put a Williams 30,000 BTU Direct Vent ($663 @ Menards) heater in our OLD and not very well insulated 8x16 ice castle. It will heat it up quickly and maintain heat no prob on the coldest days. We run a Clam fan unit hanging on the ceiling and it evens things out pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papadarv Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I have a 6.5 x 12 W/v front 3" walls floor cealing fiberglass insulation. I use a 12,000 btu vented convection heater from an old 78' P/U camper with added forced air. On Ottertail 1/11 - 15 temp at -17 to -21 wind @ 25 mph. Furnace ran for about 10 min. Than off for 15 mln. On ice from 2 pm to 11pm 4 days. Took off ice each night charged 2 parallel batteries & ran 1500 watt 110 heater keeping house warm. Burned 16# of propane over weekend. Have 2 compuuter fans & 4 speed auto fan (on low) to move air. Inside temp at 71 deg. Very even heat. Never run out of battery power. If i ever upgrade furnace i would use a 20 - 25000 BTU forced air RV furnace. Big Dave2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niteryder Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I was in the same boat. But then I decided that I never want to rely on power. This thing is way overkill, but no LP gas headache here. I do have a small 12v fan on the ceiling to move air, but when the house gets to temp, it's not really needed. Big Dave2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phild111 Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 On 1/23/2018 at 8:00 AM, Lip_Ripper Guy said: These guys pretty much covered it. The Suburban NT20SQ is a good unit, and is nice and quiet, without drawing a ton of power. If you are needing batteries soon, I'd highly suggest picking up the (2) GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries from Sam's Club for around $85/each. That'll get you 230 amp hours, so you can run an easy 3-4 day weekend without drawing down your batteries too much. Plan your cabinet to have adequate return air venting, and clearance around the furnace and vents. Acoustic foam makes a huge difference in terms of noise. Where would the acoustic foam be best placed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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