Do I need heavier arrows?

[Jameson]

Lowered my draw weight down this year. Shooting about 50-52 lbs.

Normal tip weight.....100 grams, right? Thunderheads.

Gold Tip Hunter Expedition 5575 grains per inch 8.2. 28" length with no tip and no nock.

I really try to hold my shots to 20 yards or less. Not concerned about the 40 yard shot. No bad story to report of recent bad results. Just wondering with the lowered draw weight if arrow weight should be adjusted to compensate.

Should I up my arrow weight? Suggestions?

[sportfish]

With a fixed broad head you should be fine for 30 yards and under

[Scoot]

Jameson,

Do you know how fast you're currently shooting? It's easy to calculate your kinetic energy with an online calculator. I'd guess you're at about 340 grains total (assuming 100 grain heads). If that's true, you'd do better with more weight. Will it work if you put in where you're supposed to? Absolutely. But, it's not ideal and if you make a less than perfect shot or even a good shot and by chance hit a rib on entry, you stand a chance to pay for it with a tough blood trail and/or a lost deer.

At the very least I'd look at 125 grain heads. That's not going to be enough to be ideal, but it'd be better IMO. But, you'll have to see if the 125 heads shoot ok still (might make your arrows be spined insufficiently). That's the easiest bandaid I can suggest for you.

What you've got will work, without a doubt. But, adding more weight would be better.

Good luck!

[Jameson]

Thanks for the replies.

Don't know how fast I'm shooting. Link to an easy online calculator? I'll try to find one....

What am I aiming for though?? What kind of kinetic energy is good enough?

A few years back I used the bow cranked all the way up to 60 pounds and now with the lower draw weight it does seem much slower. But the lower draw weight is what the shoulders and elbows can pull these days. I don't pretend to be the greatest shot and would like any room for error I can get.

Suggestions for an arrow weight?

[DonBo]

Your absolute best bet is to go into a reputable archery pro shop and let them set you up with properly spined arrows and matching heads.

[eyeguy 54]

shoot a broadhead and a field tip into a target and you will have a good

idea if spined good enough.

[Jameson]

Your absolute best bet is to go into a reputable archery pro shop and let them set you up with properly spined arrows and matching heads.

No reputable ones local.

The local archery pro shop has made some mistakes with my bow set-up in the past and now I like to check their work/opinions. They still would be making the arrows and I would get their opinion, but I got to research the issue a little myself and not just take their word at this point.

[Scoot]

Jameson, where do you live? I think, given what you're telling us, that DonBo is spot on with his suggestion. If you don't have a local one that's good, take a drive on a day off and get to a good one. It'll be worth the time and effort to do this by saving you even more time and effort in hassle and headache. I bet if you let us know where you are located we can find a good place to go.

Also, it's important to know that it's not just the store that is important, but also the person inside of the store. There are two places locally that are generally quite good. At each of those places, there are good and not so good techs who work on bows. At Scheels in Fargo there are two guys who I trust a bunch to work on my bow. At the Outdoorsman, there's one guy who's rock solid and I trust him a ton too. There are other techs at both places who I won't let near my bow. So remember that it's important to find a good person to work on your bow, not just a good place.

[SmellEsox]

I think you are fine. If you add weight for insert, nock, and vanes (depends on what kind you have) I think you are probably in the vicinity of 370-375 grains total arrow weight right now. Scoot mentioned a 125 grain head which might be a good idea. I was thinking about dropping down to the low 50 pound range on one of my bows this year and I was thinking of going with a 125 grain Magnus Stinger 4 blade. That would put my arrows at around 400 grains. I shoot 400 spine Beman ICS Hunters which are 8.4 gpi.

[SmellEsox]

Just an fyi, feathers weigh about 3 grains each, 4" plastic vanes weigh about 8-9 grains each, and Blazer vanes weigh about 6 grains each. Inserts weigh between 15 and 22 grains and plastic nocks about 13 grains. If your shafts weigh about 230 grains + 100 broadhead + 3 Blazer vanes=18 + insert=15 + nock=13 you are at about 375.6 grains. That is a pretty standard whitetail arrow. Adding that 125 grain head would put you right around 400 grains (which I think is a better whitetail arrow).

[Jameson]

Thanks guys.

From the calculator I had found I had guessed 340 grains for the arrow, but hadn't added in feathers, insert, and didn't know how much the knock weighed. 375 is closer.

Bow is a Hoyt Avenger, with what I have found online states 309 fps.

I'm located West of the cities, and do know of a good shop/tech NW of the cities. Any suggestion along the 35 corridor North of the cities would be appreciated, as I will be traveling that way a bunch this coming month with the bow.

[HooknHorns]

If your still concerned about the total arrow. There are ways to increase it with out changing the spine of the arrow. Some purchase weight tubes which can work but can pop off your nock. Weed wacker line works but also just plain Jane 3/16 rope works in a pinch. This all slides inside the arrow. Without a scale it's hard to say how much heavier the would get.

I had 4 strings of weed eater line inside of a 3 gr/inch weight tube, my total weight was over 700grains flying out of a 45 pound long bow. With a Zwickey 2 blade I had a complete pass through. With your arrow and speed even at what your pulling I think you'd be fine hitting them where you should.

As far as spine, you could always bare shaft tune with field points. If flight of arrow seems ok and your broadheads are hitting close to field points. I wouldn't worry about it if your keeping your shots close. You tube can be a great way to learn how to tune without a pro shop available. Good luck

[eyeguy 54]

archery country has a shop in rogers now. did you shoot a field point and your heads into a target yet? get er done... lol

[creepworm]

Thanks guys.

I'm located West of the cities, and do know of a good shop/tech NW of the cities. Any suggestion along the 35 corridor North of the cities would be appreciated, as I will be traveling that way a bunch this coming month with the bow.

I don't know how far west of the cities you are, but Minnesota Archery in Litchfield is a great bow shop. I will sing their praises to anyone that will listen.

[Jameson]

...did you shoot a field point and your heads into a target yet? get er done... lol

I have in the recent past, but have no clue what I am looking for. Do tell.

[leech~~]

Your absolute best bet is to go into a reputable archery pro shop and let them set you up with properly spined arrows and matching heads.

Plussss+1.

When I bought my last new bow a few years ago I tried to use a bunch of old used Alm arrows I had left over from the last bow. I went to the range and could not hit a paper plate at 20 yards!! The bad thing was there was like 10 guys out there watching me make an Ars of myself. Ran the bow right over to a shop on 65 and handed it to them. I said I don't know what it needs but I need it fixed! He looked it over and checked the nock points and everything and then said what arrows are you shooting? I handed him one! He reached over grabbed a carbon arrow and said this is what you need for this newer bow! I had him cut a few to size, went right back to the range to redeem myself! It shot night and day better!

[jerkbait]

H & H Archery in Maple Lake used to be a good shop when I lived down there. That is west of the cities.