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Rifle Won't Sight In


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Just a few things. Are you getting a good rest with your cheek on the stock with a good tight view through your scope or do you find yourself having to try and lift your cheek off the stock to peek down the scope? Some times when you put a big bell scope on a gun you also have to get higher mounts on the gun to make it clear the barrel and then you find yourself trying to lift your cheek off the stock to see through the scope not giving you a good rest.

Also, why can't you move that front ring up another 1/4" to 1/2" inch?

Have you tried to wiggle the scope to see if it is a little loose when in a good rest?

I really didn't care for the rings that can be removed with the thumb screw. I like the two part set screw to tighten down even on both sides.

Hold the gun up and see if you are hunting and pecking to look down the scope without lifting your cheek. confused

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One other thing you may try is this Alignment and Lapping of rings but you may have to find a Gun smith with this gear. Good luck. I would love to put a few round through the gun to see what's up! wink

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Quote:
Also, why can't you move that front ring up another 1/4" to 1/2" inch?

Agree. Actually, I would try to find a set of rings that will lower the scope a bit also. Don't know if that would solve the problem, but maybe if you got the Burris rings with the adjustable inserts, maybe could kill two birds with one stone.

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When you shoot it can you get the bullet to hit paper even if the paper has to be 8ft x 8ft? When you twist the scope windage ajustment does the bullet placement change? I am looking at maybe a bad scope??

Then I have to ask for adjustment do you know which way to twist the thumb screw on the scope to make the placement further RIGHT?

Thats another angle to look at.

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Your set up looks like it is installed correctly to me. If you have never bore sighted a scope before it can be done with the gear you have in the pictures. Take the cleaning stand shown to the range and place the rifle in the holder with the bolt removed. Look through the scope at a six inch or so diameter target a hundred yards away. Center the cross hairs on the bullseye. With out touching or moving the rifle then look down the bore of the rifle at the target. In your picture looking through the scope, your going to be looking at the target from the same perspective only dropping your eye to look through the bore. Adjust the windage (right and left)and elevation(up and down) of the scope till the bullseye is centered in both the scope and the bore. This should get you on paper at 25 yards.

Put the bolt back in the rifle and fire a three shot group at a sight in type target at 25 yards. If you get a good group measure from the center of the group to the point of aim. Multiply this number times 4 and this is how much adjustment you will need to be on target at a 100 yards. You will need to multiply that number again by the number of clicks per inch (usually 4 clicks per inch at a hundred yards.)to get the correct adjustment. If you don't get a good group on the first try shoot a second group some scopes need a few shots to settle in. If the rifle just won't group then it has other problems and should be exchanged for a new one.

If your group was 6 inches right of the bullseye at 25 yards you will need to make 96 clicks of LEFT windage adjustment to be on at a hundred yards. 6x4x4=96. Fire a group at a hundred yards to settle the scope in and then fire another group to see where you are at. Adjust your scope then from this group.

If you still don't have enough adjustment left on the scope either the bases or the rifle don't have the holes drilled correctly on center. You can take it back to Cabela's and try another set of bases or a new rifle. Make sure to keep your Nikon and give them back the Bushnell if they are going to give you a new package.

The other option is to buy a set of rings and bases that are windage adjustable. Leopold standard bases and rings are the first that come to mind. They have two screws on the rear base that push the rear ring right or left to allow the scope to be adjusted. Make sure you center your reticle before adjusting the bases.

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Fer cryin' out loud take the dang thing back and start over! Awful lotta wasted brain power here and it should have gone back to dealer way long ago!

Dude, relax! Just people helping people! Maybe he was holding the mirror off a bit! laugh

full-27051-45478-images.jpg

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I'm not crazy about your scope mounts. I don't like them at all, to many pieces. K,I,S.S.

Now, Do you wrap your arm (shooting sling style)in the shoulder strap? Are you left handed? If you are using a shooting sling and put torque on the for-end it will only shoot to one side of zero.

It is odd that you can center it with a bore site without maxing out your windage then have it shoot that far left at 30yds. If that is the case ether the scoop or the barrel are not seated right or you are torquing it.

Take yourself out of the equation as much as possible, bore site it for winage, fire it 3-5 time. if it group to left 6" check it with the bore site to see if it shifted. If it did it's the scoop or scoop mounts. If not, check the torque specs on your action screws. If the barrel is seated right take the rifle back.

Never hold your firearm agents something to steady it (like a tree). Use the tree to steady your hand but don't let the firearm touch the tree.

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I don't know a lot about your scope mounts and rings but they would make more sense to me if you had the front one facing the other way (back one turned around too ) and mounted on a short action rifle. I just looked around the web and the mounts are right.

I would start all over with new rings and mounts. I would definitely get rid of those super wide rings so you don't need that extended ring on the front.

I never have liked clamp on one side rings.

Long action .223. You gots to love the 110.

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