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About mechanictim

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  1. I have a Tracphone that I keep in my vehicle all the time. This past June I got a ZTE Valet phone to replace an older Kyocera. I did some looking on google and found articles on cold weather and smart phones that said the phone will be OK to some fairly cold temps and would start to work if warmed up after going below those temps. Just wondering if anyone else has tried long term cold storage of phone and had any issues? The articles I read said that the battery would show less of a charge the colder it got and the screen would freeze up and become unresponsive the colder it got. But I am looking at keeping the phone outdoors all winter. I figure if I need the phone I can just put it in an inside pocket and warm it up for a few minutes.
  2. If you can't afford the whole two hundred acres maybe just buy the area right around your property. You could then fence it and rent it out as pasture to someone with horses or cattle during the fall months. That would give you some additional distance between any hunters and your house and yard.
  3. You don't have to go through anybody to sell your rifle. You just need to ship it to a verified FFL. It has to ship to the address on the license only. If the buyer asks you to send it to any address other than the one printed on the license you might be being scammed. You also need to make sure you get paid before shipping the rifle. They should send you a postal money order if you ask for one. If you get any other type of check be very wary. And make sure the check clears before shipping the gun. Remember a check deposited to your account will probably have the funds available the next day but the check hasn't cleared until your bank is paid by the bank the check was drawn from. Which can take three weeks or so. Ask someone at your bank to help you with that. I have done several buys through gunbroker without any problems. They use a feed back system so you can judge the other party a little before doing business with them. They are also very good about kicking out people who aren't honest or legal. Armslist does not have the best reputation for sellers as a few of them have stolen auction pictures from other sites and tried stealing from people. Since you're the seller you just need to make sure you get paid and then don't ship the rifle to someone who shouldn't have it. So since the deal has been made you just need to ' Get paid for the rifle and shipping. Get a copy of the FFL to which you will ship the rifle to. Verify the FFL is legitimate and has the correct address with the ATF on their site. Ship the rifle by FedEx or UPS to the verified address. Done deal.
  4. There are no regulations from the ATF that prohibit you from shipping a firearm to an out of state FFL. Some of the FFL's do like to complicate things and require shipment from another FFL. You would need to contact them and find out what they want. DO NOT USE PAYPAL TO GET PAID FOR A FIREARM. It is a violation of their terms of use policy and they can really foul up the transaction. They will also terminate your account and that of the other party. Use a postal money order. If this a Gunbroker auction you should have the buyer send you the payment as a postal money order and have them have their FFL send you a copy of their license. The license can be verified online at the ATF's site and you should do so. Then ship by UPS or Fedex to the address on the license. Just for clarity let me repeat- SHIP THE FIREARM ONLY TO THE ADRESS ON THE VERIFED LICENSE. Ship the firearm only after the funds have cleared. Do not try to mail the firearm from the post office. It is up to the buyer to pay the receiving FFL's fee if any. The buyer should pay you direct for the firearm and the shipping costs.
  5. From my experience ground blinds even if well brushed in, tend to alarm the local deer, if not just spook them when first set up. However since tomorrow is firearms opener you might see a lot of deer that are not familiar with where you are at. Kind of a toss of the dice on a newly set up ground blind if your just hunting deer. If your after a particular deer, then I would just try using natural cover and keep wind direction in mind when setting up. Set up where you have some cover for when you draw. And be patient, wait till you can't be seen to draw. One tip I give to anyone who is hunting from the ground is clear all the leaves and sticks and anything else away from all around the tree you are by so you can move quietly when getting ready to shoot. Moving on bare earth is almost silent compared to any type of grass or leaves. I usually clear back about three feet or so in case I need to get on the other side of the tree. Good luck and would like to hear how your hunt goes. Tim
  6. Has anyone else ever "broken in" a shotgun so it cycles shells correctly? I bought a Remington SP-10 10 gauge when they first they came out. When new it would start to short cycle and jam up after about 7 to 10 rounds and then jam up on the second or third round until I cleaned it. It did that for the first four or five boxes of shells I put through it. Now it runs great, I can put a couple of boxes of any brand shells through it without a hiccup. I now just clean it after early goose season and again in January, So yes, a shotgun can be broken in.
  7. "He bought all his Orange already so all he needs is to complete the sale on the stoeger and buy some slugs and possibly a new rifled choke" The rifled choke will help with accuracy, but you will need to use the more expensive sabot slugs to prevent the leading that would come from the less expensive all lead rifled slugs. I know you guys are on a tight budget so don't be worried about a little extra accuracy if it is going to cost an extra $40 bucks for the tube and shells. If you can hit a 8' inch target with 3 shots from 50 to 75 yards with a modified choke, a bead for a sight, and cheap rifled slugs you should have no problem taking a deer. And shooting anything past 75 yards you really need to upgrade the sights of a shotgun to get the most from more accuracy. And that means more money. I live in farm country and probably half the guys out there are using just an old full choked gun with rifled slugs and doing just fine when killing deer. Good luck with your hunt and remember to just enjoy the day afield with you buddy.
  8. I probably should have asked this first but, has your friend ever shot a shotgun before? Starting out with slugs or magnum duck loads is not a great way to start learning to shoot. The recoil of slugs in particular is pretty harsh even for an experienced shooter. You might want to try shooting some clays with light loads just to let him get a feel for what shooting a shot gun is like. Then take him grouse or pheasant hunting with some game loads before trying the harder recoiling loads. You might also let your friend know that what he sees on those shows is what most people would consider a dream hunt. They make those shows to sell products so they set them up so the cast is seeing the big bucks and shooting lots of ducks every time they go out. There is a lot of other people doing the scouting for those shows and a lot of money being paid to outfitters and land owners so the stars of those videos can show off the products they advertise in the best light possible. You would be doing your friend a big favor by easing him to hunting and not letting him think its going to be a huge buck walking trails constantly or flocks of ducks dropping into the decoys every thirty seconds. Do him a favor and give him a little reality check before going out. Hope I am not out of line with the above but your post got me thinking he may have an unrealistic view about what the average hunter sees.
  9. If your friends budget is $200 max you may find it hard to find an 870 Rem. or 500 Moss. You could look in the yellow pages for used gun dealers and start looking for a used pump action 12 gauge that has a 3" chamber and a modified choke for under $200. You can get a good deal on a lot of the store brand shotguns that were popular through the mid 80's. It may be a Sears or Coast to Coast or other store branded gun that was made by Savage or Marlin or a few other reputable makers. They are good shotguns that will usually not have the removable choke tubes unless they were added later. The majority of them will have full chokes but there is enough with modified chokes that a few calls to local gun sellers should find you one. For Ducks you want the three inch chamber and modified choke. The full choke usually does not pattern steel shot very well. The 3" inch chamber gives you a lot better choice of loads for shooting ducks. you can get satisfactory results from the shorter shells if your shooting decoying ducks but this late in the season the shots do get a little longer and the extra payload of the longer shells can make a difference. For deer you can shoot rifled slugs through a typical full choke with no problems they just don't seem to be as accurate as the more open chokes. Most people don't find any advantage in 3" shells over 2 3/4' to justify the extra cost of the longer shells. I would like to hear back from you as to what your friend ends up with.
  10. It is good reloading practice to keep brass in lots to keep track of the number of times it is fired. Cases have a finite life span. How many times can you safely reload a case is going to depend on its quality and how it is reloaded. There are a lot of opinions on how many times a case can be reused. If a lot of your brass is military brass you picked up off the range it has been fired at least once and more likely twice. Sometime after five firings the necks of the cases should be annealed to prevent them from splitting. Depending on the source you reference a case should be discarded after seven to ten loadings. This is to prevent a nasty little surprise known as case head separation. I don't anneal case necks so when a lot starts to get a few case neck splits it gets dumped. All reloads going into a semi-auto should be checked with a case size gage. A lot of recommendations from reloaders to get small base dies for semi-autos but in my opinion not needed if every round is passed through a case gage. Now if we really want to open up a can of worms for debate we could discuss matching bullet weight to the rate of twist of the barrel. Lets just say that if the rate of twist is 1 in 9 you can try about any weight bullet that you care to try. Just buy one box at a time to find a bullet that the rifle likes before buying case quantities and trying to force the rifle to like the bullet. I like to use the load data from the bullet manufacturer as a starting point to select a powder. They usually indicate what they observed as the most accurate load in the load data. In my opinion and experience the bullet has the greatest impact on accuracy. Powder selection and charge weight can be used to fine tune the load and pick which ever primer you like as long as you keep using the same ones for consistency when comparing loads. My pet load for an AR type rifle with either 1 in 9 or 1 in 8 twist is a military case trimmed to spec with a Hornady V-max 50 grain bullet with a near max load of Varget powder lit off by a Federal match small rifle primer. This load works well for me weather I am punching paper in 90 degree heat or shooting coyotes in sub zero weather.
  11. Kimber 1911 will serve you well. Custom gun features in a off the shelf gun. You can get a nice matt finish that you need not worry about like a highly blued one. A 1911 may not be the best for concealed carry due to its size but for a 45 ACP it is the best for shooting. The size and weight make the cartridge manageable even for recoil sensitive shooters. Another nice thing about the 1911's is if you reload or buy remanufactured ammo you can shoot cast lead bullets and save some on ammo. Glocks because of the rifling they use, suggest using jacketed bullets only to prevent leading and spikes in pressure. There are aftermarket barrels for Glocks that will let you shoot cast lead bullets.
  12. Last time the super bowl was in Minnesota there was a lot of talk of changing the time that bars closed so that the super bowl crowd could keep drinking a little later. It took a while but the state did change the time for bars to stop serving. I wonder if this time around the pot heads will want to legalize weed in Minnesota? Seems like some of the ex-players might get behind that. Whizzonator, Moss ....
  13. Your set up looks like it is installed correctly to me. If you have never bore sighted a scope before it can be done with the gear you have in the pictures. Take the cleaning stand shown to the range and place the rifle in the holder with the bolt removed. Look through the scope at a six inch or so diameter target a hundred yards away. Center the cross hairs on the bullseye. With out touching or moving the rifle then look down the bore of the rifle at the target. In your picture looking through the scope, your going to be looking at the target from the same perspective only dropping your eye to look through the bore. Adjust the windage (right and left)and elevation(up and down) of the scope till the bullseye is centered in both the scope and the bore. This should get you on paper at 25 yards. Put the bolt back in the rifle and fire a three shot group at a sight in type target at 25 yards. If you get a good group measure from the center of the group to the point of aim. Multiply this number times 4 and this is how much adjustment you will need to be on target at a 100 yards. You will need to multiply that number again by the number of clicks per inch (usually 4 clicks per inch at a hundred yards.)to get the correct adjustment. If you don't get a good group on the first try shoot a second group some scopes need a few shots to settle in. If the rifle just won't group then it has other problems and should be exchanged for a new one. If your group was 6 inches right of the bullseye at 25 yards you will need to make 96 clicks of LEFT windage adjustment to be on at a hundred yards. 6x4x4=96. Fire a group at a hundred yards to settle the scope in and then fire another group to see where you are at. Adjust your scope then from this group. If you still don't have enough adjustment left on the scope either the bases or the rifle don't have the holes drilled correctly on center. You can take it back to Cabela's and try another set of bases or a new rifle. Make sure to keep your Nikon and give them back the Bushnell if they are going to give you a new package. The other option is to buy a set of rings and bases that are windage adjustable. Leopold standard bases and rings are the first that come to mind. They have two screws on the rear base that push the rear ring right or left to allow the scope to be adjusted. Make sure you center your reticle before adjusting the bases.
  14. There is no federal registration and the state of Minnesota has no registration requirements. There is nobody in the state of Minnesota to call and register your firearm. You as seller must verify that the buyer of a handgun be at least 21 years old and a resident of the same state you are. Those are the federal requirements. The state of Minnesota follows the federal regulations. Other states have different laws but they do not apply to Minnesota. In other words all you need to do is see an ID that shows the buyer resides in Minnesota and is 21 years old. A bill of sale is a good idea if the gun is ever used in a crime and you are the original owner you can document that you sold it. At this time that is not a requirement. I am a licensed dealer and my documentation is a little more involved than what you will need . I do not report any firearms transactions to the state or federal government for any type of registration. A NICS check is just to verify that the individual is eligible under federal guidelines to purchase a firearm. I keep a record of all transactions for twenty years and then destroy them. If you are worried about selling to a felon you can have a dealer do a NICS check on an individual usually for a fee. The going rate is about $25. Some sheriffs departments might have a similar deal and maybe your local police can run a check, they will probably want some money for that service as well. However there is no requirement for you to do so at this time. This is the dreaded "gun show loop hole" the media likes to whine about. As long as you don't know the buyer is a convicted felon you don't need to have proof to make the sale. I go to a lot of gun shows and there are plenty of individuals with tables who don't have an FFL selling a couple of guns and all they need to do is verify residency and age and make the transaction. And it is perfectly legal.
  15. Years ago I put a Burris 3x9 posi-lock scope on a 44 Mag Smith & Wesson model 629. The scope stood up to hundreds of 300 grain H110 max loads. I shot several deer and other game with it. That scope is now on a Weatherby Compact Firing platform in 7MM08 and still going strong. I have since put a Bushnell Holo sight on the revolver. I really like the magnification of the Burris but the big draw back was it was slow to get lined up on game in the field on the revolver . You have to line up the scope just right to even see out of it and then find the target and then put the cross hairs on the spot your wanting to hit, all while keeping it lined up with your eye, and it just takes a while with a revolver. The Holo sight is much faster. Your looking through the sight at the target almost from the time the gun is front of your face. The Reticle just about looks like it is siting on the target at fifty yards or less. The Burris works great on the bolt action Weatherby because the fore stock really helps in lining everything up. And since the range of the 7MM08 is much more than the 44 mag the magnification really can be put to good use. The big drawback to the Bushnell Holo sight is that it uses "N" batteries. Can get them at Walmart but they are an added expense at something that can die at a bad time. Bushnell no longer sells the Holo sight but the company that made them for Bushnell is EOTech and they still sell them. Both of these sights have stood up to a lot of rounds with some pretty stiff recoil and have performed flawlessly for me. Most of the "dot" sights on the market these days are pretty much junk till you get in to the higher end models. They, the cheaper ones work OK for 22's but don't hold up very long on anything bigger. If you look through a dot sight and the dot is not a perfect circle it is a low end model and you should probably pass. So for me if setting up another revolver I would go with an EOTech. If a Thompson contender or a bot action handgun I would put a another Burris Posi-lock on it. Both of these can be bought for between 300 to 500 dollars.
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