Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Shallow cranks


bassfshin24

Recommended Posts

What are some good shallow cranks that you guys use...and I'm not talking about kvd 1.5's and 2.5's since those run 3-6ft. I'm talking about cranks that run from 0-3ft. I haven't thrown them much in the fall but I could see them being dynamite being burned over the top of some shallow weeds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:
When I do throw shallow cranks it is a 1-Minus but for some reason I don't throw it very often and I'm thinking I should in the fall. Especially in shallow water.

And spring and summer! Do they make a slient 1 minus? I want a slient for clear water like east side of Tonka.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been having decent luck using a DTFat1 fished over shallow submerged weeds lately and shorelines. I think it is something different than a spinnerbait, which bass see alot of in those conditions. You can fish it slower and pause/twitch it like a top water when needed also. I like the big lip for bouncing of wood too. I also like a DTFat3, but they dive deeper like a KVD 2.5, so you need to fish it when the weeds aren't as close to the surface. Also for some reason I lose more fish on a fat 3 than a 2.5 or Fat1, but I switched to bigger hooks and it helped a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely a shallow crank is more productive here in Texas for me anyways than a spinnerbait is. I haven't used a minus one or any wake bait for that matter. I tend to use the h20 models from academy squarebills that dive 2 to 4 ft. Not a lot of weeds in my homelake. Would a wake bait be effective over shallow rock and shallow flooded timber? Probably need to buy a few of those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd never used lipless cranks like Rat-L-Traps before this year. I've had some success, and really am coming to love this type of bait. The depth versatility is awesome. Love ripping these things over shallow weeds, almost as much as I love topwater in similar conditions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely a shallow crank is more productive here in Texas for me anyways than a spinnerbait is. I haven't used a minus one or any wake bait for that matter. I tend to use the h20 models from academy squarebills that dive 2 to 4 ft. Not a lot of weeds in my homelake. Would a wake bait be effective over shallow rock and shallow flooded timber? Probably need to buy a few of those.

wakebaits, buzzbaits, spinners, swimbaits..all can be effective over shallow stuff like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.