Trolling Motor Stopping On Its Own

[amateurfishing]

k, here is the deal, bought used copilot in early spring, used a lot memorial day weekend on mille lacs with absolutely no issues

I have 2 trolling motor batteries, one is bout 3 years old, other brand new. 4 or 5 times out on lake this weekend the trolling motor just completely turned itself off, both batteries completely charged and holding charges. I have each battery hooked up with fuses and that battery male/female quick connector thingie with male wires on trolling motor. I have checked my connections to battery and all are more than hand tight with nothing loose. is this a clear sign of a trolling motor issue? I will check remote battery but put brand new in this spring and am not using it when the motor just turns off/breaks connection? and it will work for 30 seconds to a minute b4 turning off/stop working

curious for solution, thx for any info

[dan z]

If its an older square pedal foot pad I have found that the little tab thats on the slide( speed control ) if its worn your motor will stop becuaes its not contacting the metal strip. What I did was super glue a tooth pick tip on the tiny button deal and it worked. However 2 years later and miles from home I have wore off the tooth pick but its a simple fix when I get back home.

[amateurfishing]

yes it is an older square foot pedal type one but I have never used the foot pedal, only the remote control

where are you referring to speed control, on foot pedal or motor?

[CAMAN]

Does it completely shut down or do you still have power to steer, etc.? Is the "fuse" you are referring to a circuit breaker by chance?

[amateurfishing]

I do think I was able to still turn it couple of times but honestly don't really remember, the "fuse" I am referring to is those things you screw on to positive side of battery to protect motor from frying on a surge

I just tested it in garage & it worked fine, so something has to be getting loose or missed connection like stated above on the water.

[BobT]

Does it completely shut down or do you still have power to steer, etc.? Is the "fuse" you are referring to a circuit breaker by chance?

This was my first thought. If it's a circuit breaker, it could be opening the circuit and then after a few minutes it resets itself and you're good for a while.

[harvey lee]

Without a doubt, check your circut breaker. I had those same issues with another trolling motor and it was the breaker after I checked everything else. I now carry a spare just incse.

That's of course if you have a breaker installed.

It could go bad after running for awhile and getting hot and then it will not work. I would try a new one to make sure.

[luckydog25]

What Bob said would be my guess. If it was fuses instead of breakers it wouldn't work at all unless you replaced a fuse. If it is new enough to add co-pilot and is 24 volt I am guessing you have circuit breakers. My guess is you have a bad breaker or more than likely a bad connection leading to a breaker tripping. Check all connections. Make sure they are clean and tight.

[CAMAN]

I do think I was able to still turn it couple of times but honestly don't really remember, the "fuse" I am referring to is those things you screw on to positive side of battery to protect motor from frying on a surge

I just tested it in garage & it worked fine, so something has to be getting loose or missed connection like stated above on the water.

That would be a circuit breaker, they are usually automatic reset and will turn back on after a set period of time.

I would replace it and see if it fixes your problem. They're around 10-20 bucks.

[amateurfishing]

thx all, I get it could be the circuit breaker, but why would it happen on both batteries at same time? I have a 12v co-pilot, batteries are wired individually with female quick wire kit for easy switch of batteries when 1 starts to get low. to have the trolling motor refuse to work on either battery at full charge and hooked up separately each with its own circuit breaker does not make sense (to me) and you are stating that the breaker would "trip" only after being used for 30 seconds to a minute? then have either exact same thing happen with second battery or not working at all? that really does not sound like a breaker problem, does it? and could not get troller to work properly for over 24 hours? the fact that both batteries wired separately for 12v troller make me think it is more the motor than battery, no? if the breaker does need to "reset" itself, how long does that take?

timeline: sat am troll on 1 battery for 5 hours

sat night try to troll but motor stops after 1 minute on 1 battery and wont start with other fully charged battery

sun am....same results as sat night with both batteries

[Whoaru99]

Sounds like it's time to buy an inexpensive multimeter. Need to start somewhere and making sure there is still proper voltage going to the trolling motor when it stops is a real good place to start.

Also, FWIW, you should connect those two batteries in parallel. You will get more total run time than using them separately. This is one of those rare cases the math doesn't add up, in a good way. IOW, 5+5 > 10.

EDIT: Oh...noticed one battery is quite a bit older than the other. In that case I probably wouldn't connect them in parallel.

[hitthebricks]

I am on my third Co-Pilot so far and most issues are caused by the plug/circuit board. I have had the power issue on the last one and found it was cause by the plugin from the Co-Pilot to the trolling motor. The remotes are also notorious for sub-par performance after the battery dies once, "their just worn out" according to a Minn-kota tech.

The Minn-kota repair center in Bloomington is great for diagnosing problems with a bench test.

By the way, what did you pay for the tm? I'm considering upgrading next spring to the I-Pilot.

Good Luck,

HTB

[Kyhl]

Wiring problems are a PITA.

I recently solved my trolling motor problem (knock on wood) by replacing the plug and socket.

Here was my issue. Not saying it's your issue but it could be worth trying.

My symptoms: Motor would cut out then pop back on.

Or motor would cut out then come back on later.

Or motor would cut out then come back on after resetting the plug-in.

Or motor would pop a circuit breaker.

I replaced the plug socket last summer and it seemed to fix things temporarily. After a few more popped breakers, and jiggled plugs and sockets and testing with a voltmeter, I replaced both the plug and socket.

My theory was that the plug had bad connectors (bent) that were wrecking the sockets.

So far so good. (more knocking on wood)

[Ufatz]

H'brick.....am amazed at all your troubles co-pilot. I have had two of them in past six years or so and they work fine. Never had the remote quit on me....just replace my battery every spring. Have never heard they "...go bad after dbattery quit once" Am very pleased with mine and its a shame you've had so much trouble.

[EBass]

Two words - Motor Clinic

[Hoey]

I had the same issue this spring, motor would run for a bit, then stop. Steering function work, but no motor op. Found out that my motor would fill up with water and short out. It would start working again after I pulled it out of the water. Put it back in and it would stop.

Apparently, there are service-able seals in the motor housing that should be replaced periodically. It took mine to a authorized service center Formula Propeller in Rogers, ended up replacing the entire motor and shaft.

One of the other guys I fish with had the same problem. He took his to Steiffs and they just replaced the seals. Go to go, less than $15.

[amateurfishing]

thx guys

I guess I will leave as is since working in the garage and hopefully take out on water again and watch more closely if/when it happens and go from there. I would have to think seals or circuit board issue would be places to start tho.

[amateurfishing]

I had the same issue this spring, motor would run for a bit, then stop. Steering function work, but no motor op. Found out that my motor would fill up with water and short out. It would start working again after I pulled it out of the water. Put it back in and it would stop.

Apparently, there are service-able seals in the motor housing that should be replaced periodically. It took mine to a authorized service center Formula Propeller in Rogers, ended up replacing the entire motor and shaft.

One of the other guys I fish with had the same problem. He took his to Steiffs and they just replaced the seals. Go to go, less than $15.

why did u replace entire motor and shaft?

[amateurfishing]

I had the same issue this spring, motor would run for a bit, then stop. Steering function work, but no motor op. Found out that my motor would fill up with water and short out. It would start working again after I pulled it out of the water. Put it back in and it would stop.

Apparently, there are service-able seals in the motor housing that should be replaced periodically. It took mine to a authorized service center Formula Propeller in Rogers, ended up replacing the entire motor and shaft.

One of the other guys I fish with had the same problem. He took his to Steiffs and they just replaced the seals. Go to go, less than $15.

[Hoey]

I ended up replacing the motor and shaft. The motor would only work at above say 4 or 5 on the 0 to 10 I-Pilot control settings. The shaft was replaced since it is factory pressed into the motor and you can not get the motor w/o the shaft. 5 or 6 Years ago I broke the shaft (it shattered) forgetting to pull it out of the water and taking off in big waves. It was covered under warranty at that time. Mine is a Minnkota RipTide (white) saltwater unit. White because it matches the top of my Ranger.

[Cicada]

Pull the prop off. See if there is any fishing line wrapped around the shaft. Even if the answer is no, pull one of the through-bolts. If it is wet, you have a blown seal. Not a major repair if this is the case, but the lower unit will have to be cleaned out before the seal kit is installed. If you are looking for parts, you will have to have the model and serial numbers or they will send you home to get it.

[hitthebricks]

Try wiggling the connection where the Co-pilot connects to the motor next time it stops.

My trolling motors connection are worn out and will loose contact. Solved my problem with zip ties and duct tape for now.

HTB

[JohnMickish]

What size wires are you running up to the TM and what are you using for a plug? If things are undersized and/or corroded resistance in the system could be causing things to heat up and shut off. Same goes for line around the prop shaft.

When the motor is out of the water, can you spin the prop easily or is there some resistance or lots of resistance?

[amateurfishing]

again thx for all the info, help, and places to look for this info. I will definitely let know the issue if/when I find it. the loose connection and seal theory certainly fits the bill tho. here are pics of my troller batteries and how they are connected, doubt it could be a wire or connection issue here as these connections & wires are specific for trolling batteries (8 or 10 g) I believe the packaging at FF said.

[JohnMickish]

With seeing those pics, I'm going to go with the other guys thinking that it's the motor that is tripping your circuit breaker.

Now speaking of the circuit breaker, what size is it? How many amps is your motor rated to pull?

[amateurfishing]

circuit breakers are 50 amp, was always told that is fine for 12 volt troller, have no idea of actual motor specs, it was bought used with no manual