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Aluminium Trailer fix need suggestions


DTro

Question

I was headed up to the Burntside Bash this weekend and as I was heading out, I noticed the trailer was tweaked a bit. After doing some inspection I found that the bolt that the trailer pivots on (to tilt) sheared off.

The both sections of the bolt are frozen solid and I can't budge them.

It looks like there is a welded housing that the bolt slides into. I'm guessing this acts as a bushing or maybe there is a separate bushing inside there as well.

Is there an easy fix here? I suppose I could cut the bolt head and nut off and then drill a new hole next it. But then I think I would have to do the same thing on the other side as well. I don't think I can just run a bolt through either can I? I would need some sort of bushing right?

Maybe a hole saw just slightly bigger than the bolt and smaller than the bushing?

Thoughts?

2013-03-10_14-34-27_254_zpscc4f5839.jpg

2013-03-11_14-18-47_199_zps63dc5c2c.jpg

2013-03-11_14-20-27_990_zps00ba866b.jpg

2013-03-11_14-20-02_58_zps9d602f21.jpg

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It looks a lot like the Triton I have. I'm not sure why if the bolt is broke you can't get a big wrench on the ends of them and twist them loose? Spray in some Lq wrench and use a punch if you need to to get them out. The gussets are welded in there to give it strength and keep the channle from collapsing when the bolt is tightened up. I think the two broken ends of the bolt are just corroded and stuck in there but should be removeable. confused Also, if you drill new holes it will not have the gusset support and you will change your pivot point a bit. You would have to do both sides the same if you want it to pivot right.

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Yes, that weld is cracked. I understand it doesn't do much but I'd be looking at some of the other ones. Aluminum welds crack easily.

I'm not quite seeing what is happening here, Darren. If it's just a rusted out bolt, do you have an angle grinder and cutting wheel? Cut the head off and drive it out with a punch.....or is there something here I'm not seeing?

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Yes, basically that is all that happened, the bolt snapped.

Its kind of hard to see there, but in the top pic the tongue assembly is pushed back about a foot. You can see on the frame where the bolt is snapped off.

full-105-30988-bolt.jpg

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DTro, when you go to fix this. I would buy some good Stainless steel bolts to put back in it so they don't rust and break again. And as long as your at it, if it were me I would replace the other side at the same time to save future headaches! wink

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steel bolt reacts with alum, if you cant tap out broken bolt you could prob drill {slowly} through center of bolt and work at it that way, or sawzall the alum bush close to each side of tube and put a new standoff/bushing made of stainless and use a stainless bolt, i wouldnt worry about welding a new piece in it wont go anywhere

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Seriously Dtro- don't be breaking a nail or anything on this. If I can get a 12 pack out of the deal I've got all the tools ;-) Or if you just need to borrow something special just do it.

It is hard to believe after giving it a PB blaster soak down you can't bust that loose with a breaker bar, no matter how corroded it is.

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yeah maybe I'm making this too hard. smile

I've just been doing a bunch of research on the webz about this happening to others and in all cases they have a bugger of a time freeing these bolts after they snap so I'm a bit skeptical.

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Yeah it's amazing what a little heat and an impact can do. Or what Eric mentioned- cut off the head and punch it through. Just had to do this same thing to EVERY DARN rusted bolt on the suspension/shackles of a tandem car trailer. That was a pain. Plus that bending over or laying down under projects is for 3rd world countries. I'll take the lift any day, even for the easy projects. lol

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It basically has something to do chemistry. Aluminum and steel react and corrode and then fuse in some cases. I would assume road salt helps this. The bolt has fused inside the the aluminum tubing.

I wouldn't worry about this crack. The aluminum tubing was placed inside and put in place to prevent squeezing the walls of the frame square tubing when the bolt and nut are tightened. Maybe also a place to apply anti-seize to prevent this very thing but as time goes by it works it way out?

Just be cautious of cutting anything off flush that you can put something on to help twist or rotate the broken bolt. wink

I would agree that maybe apply some heat using a M.A.P gas torch to the bolt and then try to twist out with an impact or large wrench. Maybe you could use an air hammer/chisel and punch out the bolt coming in from the open side after the heat is applied?

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I wouldn't use grade 8, too hard and will brake easier.

That is incorrect, grade 8 bolts have more shear and tensile strength than lower grade and stainless steel bolts.

They wont break easier, but are overkill in the situation he is describing.

The stainless, although not as strong, would be fine simply due to their less corrosive nature.

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well I gave it the old college try today and just didn't make much progress. They are basically cold welded in there.

I was thinking about just cutting them off flush at the frame and then drilling a new hole directly in front of the broken one.

I thought about just cutting out the support bushing and pounding out the whatever remains and I can do that on the tongue section as its right there on the end, but I'm not able to do that on the frame section, the bolt is probably 18" from the end.

So that is why I thought cutting everything flush and drilling a new hole might be easiest. My concern would be that new bolt might ream itself out without a proper bushing welded in there.

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If you re-drill a new hole in a different spot. Are you going to do the same on both sides? Or it will bind when it's tilted. Also you will be changing your pivet point of the trailer if drilled in a different spot.

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Yes, I'm afraid I would have to do that on both sides to keep it from binding when I tilt it.

I'm not to concerned about the pivot point, as an inch shouldn't make that much of a difference.

Getting the bolts out would be the best solution. The research I've done seems like Acetylene is probably worth a try, but I don't have access to that here so I couldn't try that today.

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Heat it up and beat it out. With heat, it will go.

I use to help a buddy that ran a fertilizer plant and if one wants to remove tough bolts, work with steel and fertilizer, the stuff welds together.

With that said, a torch and hammer seemed to always fix everything.

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