Trap's ??

[CC Hurl]

Hi folks, I am going to be taking my lab out in the next week or two for some shed hunting and have a question or two. I know I am not pronouncing this correctly but I have heard about these traps called conaboar traps or something like that. Can a guy see them in the woods or is it to late before you see them? Were can I learn how to get my dog free from one should we be so unfortunate and does a guy need to worry about them this time of year? I have traveled these woods before and most is private but some is not. This will be my first time out with a dog and I would hate to find my one year old lab and myself in a situation that I did not educate myself on. Even if it is just a little bit of an education. Thanks for your time.

[mrklean]

check in the trapping forum i believe someone posted a how to on the best way to get a dog out of one of those traps

[Gordie]

there is a page on this very procedure in the hunting and Trapping regulations booklet.

I tried to copy and paste it but my PC won't let me do it.

[FJK]

The ones you need to worry about are the 330 Conibear traps, they have a 10" x 10" opening and are used primarily for beavers. By law, I believe they're supposed to be 3/4 submerged in water. "Most" trappers abide by the law, the problem is, water levels can fluctuate drastically in a short period of time; ex a beaver dam is opened or blown open, thus leaving these deadly traps completely out of the water. They are not easily seen, but they are generally set in areas where beavers are, which is pretty much near any water source, especially in the spring. If you do see one out of the water, set it off by throwing a stick against the trigger. I trapped as a teenager and placed them in beaver runs going into a house, runs leading towards food sources on higher land, near dams, culverts, etc. Unfortunately, if your dog gets into one of these, it's most likely game over very quickly, as they can kill a 65 lb beaver in the blink of an eye. Check out the conibear HSOforum for instructions. Basically, you need to compress each of the two springs and hook them closed with the safety latch attached to the spring. They are normally set with a scissor type tool because of the difficulty doing so by hand, in a jamb you would hold it up and compress the spring by foot. Hope this helps.

[FCspringer]

You don't have to worry about 330's because they are under water if you knew facts. The real truth is you don't have to worry about any traps. This is just a ploy to end trapping again. Then you can kiss good hunting good bye after that.

[DaSwede]

You don't have to worry about 330's because they are under water if you knew facts. The real truth is you don't have to worry about any traps. This is just a ploy to end trapping again. Then you can kiss good hunting good bye after that.

I hunt with labs...if the traps are in the water, I need to worry about them

[FCspringer]

No, No you don't

[BRULEDRIFTER]

You don't have to worry about 330's because they are under water if you knew facts. The real truth is you don't have to worry about any traps. This is just a ploy to end trapping again. Then you can kiss good hunting good bye after that.

Tell that to the many folks who have lost their dogs to these traps over the years.

[FJK]

You don't have to worry about 330's because they are under water if you knew facts. The real truth is you don't have to worry about any traps. This is just a ploy to end trapping again. Then you can kiss good hunting good bye after that.

Sorry, you are correct. I wasn't quoting facts when I said I "believe" the traps needs to be 3/4 submerged, it has been 30 years since I trapped to help pay for college. If you refer to p45 of the MN hunting/trapping regulations these traps need to be only 1/2 submerged. Perhaps you may also need to brush up on your regulations. Your comment about the "real truth" is absolutely absurd. Anyone possibly loosing their dog in one of these traps would be a terrible tragedy. You know as well as i do, that the 330 conibear is a very dangerous trap. With that said, I still support safe and responsible trapping practices.

[motley man]

This is like a deer hunter shooting a semi-auto and firing the whole clip and spraying the woods.

[FCspringer]

I need not to brush up on any thing. I said water. I said nothing about how deep one had to be so whats your point. The truth is this subject is always a complete joke. And the fact is trapping is a safe tradition, and these topics get so pumped out of proportion it's ridiculous. You have a greater chance of being hit by a car or lightning. There also is no such thing as many, many, incidents. Getting people worked up about this is bad for hunting all together.This subject is always a tactic of anti hunting/trapping.You will get more enjoyment out of life not worrying about such silly things. Trappers have tried to deal with this on here several times in a productive way. And people dead set against it always make it a big deal it is not. Simply because they have no clue. Good luck finding a trap out there. LOL And last I checked, duck or any hunting for that matter is closed.

[Gordie]

I DONT THINK THIS IS HELPING THE GUY GET HIS DOG OUT OF A TRAP FELLAS.

If you look in the Hunting and Trapping regs booklet it will give you instructions on how to remove a coniber trap.

[CC Hurl]

Orrrly cow man, Didn't know I was going to open up a can of worms here. Lol Just want to help the pooch if he should need so. I am learning something for sure. Thanks again for your time.

[kelly-p]

Quote:

Orrrly cow man, Didn't know I was going to open up a can of worms here. Lol

Welcome to the traps/dogs minefield. Here is wishing you and your young dog many happy and safe times together.

[DaSwede]

Orrrly cow man, Didn't know I was going to open up a can of worms here. Lol Just want to help the pooch if he should need so. I am learning something for sure. Thanks again for your time.

Here is a great article/video on how to release the trap.

http://www.startribune.com/sports/outdoors/138007513.html

Also, I did have to release my lab from a trap once from an unmarked spring foot trap. He waded down into a creek to get a drink and the next thing I know he'd rolling around like a gator had him. When I got him to calm down, the trap was on his foot. I released him and he limped for a couple hours and was fine...luckily. I was on private land at the time, and the owner didn't trap. It does happen...so I better look out for lightning today...I hear it's going to storm later on...

[FJK]

Fcspringer, I'm pro hunting/trapping. To me, "under" water as you stated is entirely different than half way out of the water. Especially when my VC gwp, whom I've spent countless hours and thousands of dollars training, is trudging around the swamp for whatever catches his attention. A dog with any sort of nose is going to be attracted to scents trappers use. When I'm running the dogs I see traps regularly, probably because I know where to look for them. Over the years I've released my dog on three occasions from the leg hold type traps set for mink and rats, not a big deal. Heck, I even once caught the family dog growing up in a trap I set. However, the 330's are a different story, they are absolutely something to be concerned about. By law, i feel they should be completely underwater with a pole running over the top. Just my opinion, take it or leave it.

Oh, by the way, beaver season does run until April 30th, p39 of the regulations. And the Dnr does trap problem beaver year round. I'm now moving on, done with this topic.

[LABS4ME]

I think the debate on the for/against 330s should be taken up in the outdoor political forum, not here. We had a poster ask if there is a place he can look to see how to release a dog from a trap. Let's keep it as that.

There are plenty of view points both for and against the subject of trapping, but it isn't going to be debated here in the dog forum.

Thanks

Good Luck!

Ken

[DaSwede]

I think the debate on the for/against 330s should be taken up in the outdoor political forum, not here. We had a poster ask if there is a place he can look to see how to release a dog from a trap. Let's keep it as that.

There are plenty of view points both for and against the subject of trapping, but it isn't going to be debated here in the dog forum.

Thanks

Good Luck!

Ken

And for the record, I'm not against anyone trapping. I'm against someone saying that I shouldn't be concerned about the possibility of my dogs getting caught in one.

I liken it to this: The odds are I will never have to use CPR on anyone, BUT if the need ever arises, I want to know what to do if that situation ever does happen. I am CPR/AED trained for that reason.

I too am done with this thread. I support ethical and legal trapping, but I do know how to remove the traps if my dog should ever get caught in one, not because of paranoia, but because I want to know how to react if it ever happens.

[swamptiger]

Quote:

We had a poster ask if there is a place he can look to see how to release a dog from a trap. Let's keep it as that.

To answer the original poster's question, here is an old thread complete with photos and a video showing how to release a conibear trap with a rope.

http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2126059/How_to_remove_a_conibear_from_

[LABS4ME]

Thanks Swamptiger...

Good Luck!

Ken

[Eric Wettschreck]

From the DNR hunting regs book

[CC Hurl]

Hey...thanks a million you guys for all the replies. I am sorry about opening the can of worms as I did not know how touchy of a subject this was.

I now have plenty of reading to do and video to watch. I too doubt I will ever need this info but feel better knowing I could try something if it ever did happen. To watch my dog suffer or die while I just stood there with no help to give would really be a bad deal. My only choice would be a bullet to put him out and that would be very sad indeed. Thanks again for your time.

[NORTHCRAZE]

After reading all the issues on this subject on many forums I keep reading how humane the 220 is in a very quick and clean kill. ( Many by breaking the neck)That is why I believe that 220's only have to be checked every three days.

From these forums I also have been instructed to go out and by my own 220 and learn how to release the trap. Since then I have bought a 220 but am not sure why I did because if my dog's neck is broken what's the sense?

I have also been instructed to carry a "bolt cutter" to release my _ _ _ _ dog.

I am waiting for the one that I ordered for $ 50.00 from Amazon and will try to wreck the trap I just bought!

Agreed the 220 may not always break the neck but it looks like my grouse & shed hunting days with my dog are over untill???

But if the bolt cutter works I'll still carry it!

[Gordie]

Thanks for the info SwampTiger and MNarcher for the time he took to do that.

[FCspringer]

I have said many times I run dogs as much as any one. I also trap. You truly have little to worry about. Getting a trap to decipher how to un set one is a great idea, I brought up many times. And yes it was me who wrecked a trap and tried bolt cutters on one of my traps. The fact that someone told you it will break the dogs neck is missleading. You will have plenty of time to deal with it should you run in to one of the most rare events. Especially if you just don't panic. The bolt cutter with a 10" handle cut through the jaws like butter. You could completely destroy it in seconds. one clip drastically reduces most if not all pressure. 2 clips and the thing can be removed. I doubt any trapper would be upset if this is what you had to do. Here is the photo I took and where I cut. The spring is hardened steel and will not cut.You need to cut the frame or jaw. To buy one get a true bolt cutter and not a cheap one. You can buy a trap at a fleet store as well. you should be able to buy one for 10 bucks, not 50. That is way high. I will sell traps for 10 bucks to any one who wants to buy one.Then you can see how easy it is to cut and where. To carry a bolt cutter is easy in the back of the vest. I will not carry one. I know how to release a dog so I am not at all worried. I doubt in my life I will ever need to do it, but knowing how is best if someone feels they will hunt in areas that are used for trapping. Just the other day I showed a group of hunters how to do it and all were able to figure it out.