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operation toy shed/man cave project input


rundrave

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I live out on rural 1acre lot. Unfortunately the house we bought last year only has a 2 stall garage 24'x20' so I need to build a man cave to accommodate room for more toys. I am in the initial research phase and have no idea what I want for size but leaning towards (32' x 28'). Obviously it will never be big enough, but I still want to be able to enjoy my large yard with my kids and dogs.

Some things to keep in mind:

-Wife says that it needs to match our house, although not required it will have the same shingles and siding as our home.

-Have 2 dogs (GSP's) and would like to have attached kennel run and inside living quarters for dogs year round.

-Currently do not own a boat but will buy once man cave is finished. Say I buy an 16-18ft fish/ski boat, how much space is nice to have with trailer tongue and motor to store boat inside

-Main garage openings a single and double door will face the north not the best but thats what will work with our current driveway.

-I like ATV's but cant buy more because I dont have room lol

I realize I am only limited by how much I want to spend. But some ideas I have although not required is a heated floor, sturdier trusses/rafter for a lift etc, adding additional smaller garage door for riding law mower etc. Put in as many electrical outlets as I can in both the walls and ceiling.

My budget isnt much of a concern, but I am a very frugal person lol. I am a do it yourself kind of guy and get giddy just thinking about building it myself and how much fun it will be. But are some of kits from companies/stores worth buying? Do I save much by building it myself or are there good enough deals to pay to have it done? Other than getting the concrete poured I am confident I could get everything else done between family and friends.

As far as a cost aspect, whats a good dimension to work with for the roof trusses to help keep costs down. Is it cheaper to make it long and narrow building vs say a more square shaped building? I think I could get buy with something the size of (32' x 28') but is there any dimension that makes it easier to work with materials etc.

With that said what are some other things I should consider? Any tips or suggestions? Those of you who have done this, anything you would do different?

Thanks in advance

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I have a 28x36 garage, and it is very nice size. Right at about 1008 sq. Ft. so nice and even, and good building dimensions.

For doors, unless you are going REAL high wink make sure for sure 8' high. I have 10w x 8h and a 18w x 8h and they work awesome. I also got real good and 2" thick insulated steel doors, instead of 1 7/8" - not much, but price wasn't that much more and they are more solid, even in how they sound when they go up compared to neighbors. I would not add a smaller door (overhead type, not talking about service door, which of course you need) in addition to your other two doors at it just takes up wall space. (I almost did a door on back side to "pull through" but that would have been wasted money, glad I didn't)

I did not put in Wirsbo (type) tubing and regret it. Put in tube even if you don't add boiler right away.

Do storage trusses even you don't plan adding room/storage. Again, I didn't and regret it.

I also sloped my floor (2.75" over 28 feet) going to big doors, since I can't have drain. I heat garage all winter and this works great, I the water just leaves when I open the doors. I like it, some people might not, but make so I can even wash things inside in winter or summer and water always goes "out".

Do at least the 2' overhangs, I'd go farther if you can.

Good luck, take pics to show us! smile

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I realize I am only limited by how much I want to spend. But some ideas I have although not required is a heated floor,

sturdier trusses/rafter for a lift etc,

What type of lift are you thinking? With such long dimensions, you're going to have a tricky time putting anything up that will support much weight. Roof trusses are not meant to carry much weight at all. You'd have to put in a giant header/beam to hold any weight over that long span.

adding additional smaller garage door for riding law mower etc.

Probably not worth it if you already have 2 other doors.

Put in as many electrical outlets as I can in both the walls and ceiling.

Not a bad idea. Make sure you put them up a ways, like 4 ft up, so they dont get wet. you'll also want GFI outlets out there. Also may want to wire 220/240 for a welder or big air compressor.

My budget isnt much of a concern, but I am a very frugal person lol. I am a do it yourself kind of guy and get giddy just thinking about building it myself and how much fun it will be. But are some of kits from companies/stores worth buying? Do I save much by building it myself or are there good enough deals to pay to have it done? Other than getting the concrete poured I am confident I could get everything else done between family and friends.

The kits are basically just a materials list and a set of plans. Can use them or make your own, either way will work.

As far as a cost aspect, whats a good dimension to work with for the roof trusses to help keep costs down. Is it cheaper to make it long and narrow building vs say a more square shaped building? I think I could get buy with something the size of (32' x 28') but is there any dimension that makes it easier to work with materials etc.

Long and narrow is easier to work with because the roof trusses are smaller, but you'll need more of them, so you'd have to do a cost analysis.

With that said what are some other things I should consider? Any tips or suggestions? Those of you who have done this, anything you would do different?

What types of stuff do you want to be doing out there? Just storage? Welding, woodworking, gardening/planting/potting, hang out area with a couch, tv, and fridge, working on cars, sleds, atvs?

Can the dogs be together in one area all the time or are they better of separated? Do you want a small yard for them or just an outdoor kennel area 10x10 or whatever?

Thanks in advance

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its mainly going to be a place to keep stuff I want that I don't currently have room for. Sold the boat because didn't have room for the last one and didn't have the time to justify keeping it but now I will. I want another ATV but don't have room to store it etc. Be nice to get my dogs into a better setup as right now they are confined to the inside of my garage etc. They have no problem being together thats how they are right now.

I don't expect to have a couch etc. I want it to be a work area where I can be as loud as I want, work when I want and not have someone yelling at me because impact wrenches or compressors are too loud. I just need a secure building with a roof and walls. I think this is going to be a never ending project, but my goal is to get the walls and roof on this spring and get it enclosed and go from there.

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i would do as much insulation as you can handle to keep warm inside and for extra layer of soundproofing. if noise is a major issue for you, you may wanna google accoustical companies. look into soundproof rubber matting, ceiling channels, accoustical adhesive (between drywall layers) etc. we did for our home office (if kids r home and someone needs to work from home family room is right next to office) and the stuff works well. kids can be in next room barely hear them.

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For a freestanding garage, I wouldn't worry much about sound. Regular insulation should be enough. Half the time you'll probably have the big doors open when you're working in there anyways.

How about this for some ideas? Couple things that I've come up with over the years for my garages.

1. shelves: lots of them....

-I try to have a couple sets of shelves built with 2x4s, 2 ft deep with plywood for the shelves. Spaced to fit big rubbermaid containers. this model has them by the boat.

-I also like having a set of kitchen type cabinets to keep smaller items, like caulk, spray paint, wd40, etc. (none shown in model, but I'd probably put them behind the boat, high enough not to interfere with the boat.

-I like having one shelf above the garage door. I use wire shelving from the big box store and turn it upside down so it has a lip. Hang the front from the rafters with steel cables. good for light but bulky stuff, tents, sleeping bags, lawnchairs, mr. heaters.

-Above my workbench I normally put 1 or 2, 12-16 inch deep shelf. This is where I store my smaller tools that don't get used very often (palm sander, grease gun, hot glue gun, angle grinder, etc. Each one gets its own toolbox that is labeled. (bought on sale at Menards, etc.)

2. Workbench. I like using kitchen counter tops from the big box stores. they are cheap and pretty durable. Also put pegboard all along the back. Hang a florescent light or two above the bench, hanging from the shelf above. Power outlets on the front of the bench are also really nice so your cords aren't draped across the bench. Leave bench high enough to fit a mini-fridge under, along with welders, shop vac, garbage can full of dog food, etc.

3. Dog box. nothing too special, but nice to have one small hatch for the dogs to come in and out of, but also a big one so you can clean it out easily. Door going outside so they can move as they please.

Thats all I have for now...

full-27123-18463-36x28garage1.jpg

full-27123-18464-36x28garage2.jpg

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28x36.

Also, when placing doors, I'd try to keep them towards the center. I have a garage and the 3rd stall door is about 6 inches from the wall. Makes that wall unusable for shelving.

I'd also try to do 9 or 10 foot ceilings if you're going to be doing much work out there.

And if you're building it yourself, I'd expect about 6-7K or so in materials, plus the concrete work. Might be able to get it cheaper if you find windows on hsolist and whatnot.

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I'm not really sure if these sizes of garage doors are available, I just kinda randomly picked the sizes.

full-27123-18466-36x28garage3.jpg

And dont forget these guys. Wondering when you're finally gonna be done so you can go play!

full-27123-18467-36x28garage4.jpg

Here is the outside portion of our kennel. It has raised walls, not sure why. It's kinda a pain to hose out. I don't think I'd do it this way. I'd just use a slab.

full-27123-18468-0504111828.jpg

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Lightning, that looks great. Almost same as mine, but I have doors reversed. I keep the boat in on the side of the big door, so in winter we are mainly using the smaller door to get most used car out more - keeps more heat in, but no big differecne probably in grand scheme.

I also have 7.5' slab on the back side for my kennel (no blocks, so easy to hose out). I did it 7.5' so it would be a bit bigger than the 6' panels, but I should just made it 8' for more "standard" sizing.

One other minor thing, for the blocks, I used the (not sure of correct terminology) "rough faced" blocks. They just end up looking a bit nicer than the flat "normal" ones, I think, and not significant price difference.

In a layout like that, I would definitely do an 18' door over the standard 16' door. And if you plan the boat in the smaller door, definitely a 10' door over 8 or 9' door. Fun project! Nice drawing Lightning!

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I would consider placing a row of blocks on top of the slab and putting the building on top of them. That way you have less chance of the walls getting wet from car slop. Are you sure that the boat you may end up with will fit lengthwise when on a trailer? Those pesky trailer tongues can stick out awfully far.

I agree with Box on the rafters. You absolutely will start tossing stuff up there, wanting to hang a ladder or a portable ice house, whatever. Either beef them up or put a beam in the center lengthwise.

I would be sure to put chases in for more electric than you think you will want, natural gas if it's available, and room for telephone and cable tv wiring.

Folks have different thoughts on windows. Some feel it invites thieves, others like more natural lighting.

Consider how much you really intend to use it in the winter. Some folks will urge you to insulate it to a house equivalent. Unless you're going to spend a ton of time out there I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.

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I would consider placing a row of blocks on top of the slab and putting the building on top of them. That way you have less chance of the walls getting wet from car slop.

for sure. You'll want at least 1 course of blocks above the slab, maybe even 2 courses. then you can hose out the garage and squeegee all the water out. Epoxying the floors also makes for easy cleanup.

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Impressive drawings, and suggestions on here.

I would also add 1 course of block above the concrete...then use 10 foot stud walls above that, or 12 foot if you have ideas of a camper, rv. Then a taller garage door would be required.I like the garage doors on a gable end...keeps the dripping/ice away from the apron. I'd also do the staight garage, then add a dog run concrete slab on a gable end with doghouse outside, with its own roof. Keeps smells out of garage, and garage more secure .Check for local building codes, if there are any, they can dictate sizes allowed. Sounds like a fun project.

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I agree to double check that 28 ft is going to be enough for a decent boat, I have an 18 ft Lund w/ 150 hp motor and 30 ft garage, and there is not that much space in front of it unless I swing the tongue over (make sure you get a swing tongue trailer too). If/when I get that 19-20 ft Pro-v I will need all of my garage.

I put a 4 ft wide shelf across the back of my garage that has 3 ft of vertical space, support is partial from 2 rafters and braces from the outside edge of the shelf at an amgle down to where the floor meets wall. The braces are a minor hinderance but the shelf holds a huge amount of my gear. None of it real heavy, just stuff like decoys, camping gear, fishing gear, golf bags, coolers, x-mas tree, etc. Without it I would need another garage.

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Couple tips I have:

Doors 12' wide minimum.

I put my compressor on top of my work bench in a corner. It gets the noise of the compressor above your ears. Mine is an 80 gallon oil filled so its not real loud but every little bit helps.

When you have decided how many electrical outlets you want double it.

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Couple tips I have:

Doors 12' wide minimum.

I put my compressor on top of my work bench in a corner. It gets the noise of the compressor above your ears. Mine is an 80 gallon oil filled so its not real loud but every little bit helps.

When you have decided how many electrical outlets you want double it.

Who the heck needs 12ft doors? Max width that can travel down the road is what 8.5 ft? Might be time to head down to the highschool parking lot with some cone and work on backing up a trailer.

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I built a 40x56 about 6 years ago and love it. Its heated with in-floor heat with an electric boiler. Some thoughts:

1) Your title says 'man-cave', it you're going to spend any amount of time out there in the winter, figure in a heat source. I set mine at 40 degrees, heat it from Nov to March, figured it out a couple years ago, it cost me $300 per year. You can go with an LP stove up in the corner but then the floor is cold.

2) Floor drain is nice!!! When you have an iced up vehicle, pull it in and let it melt off. Slope the concrete to the floor. Mine runs into a reservoir and soaks in, not enough capacity, wish I would have ran a tile to the outside. Live and learn.

3) Doggie doors, if you're going with heat, get good ones. I bought steel ones, was thinking about puppies chewing, but I think I could have found tighter doors that were still puppy proof. I also put in three doggie doors and seperate my two dogs, sometimes you don't want to mix dogs, like a new puppy with an old dog. Or you might have a guest dog.

4) Don't scrimp on the inside wall stringers, mine is pole barn construction with steel inside and out, to save money the contractor scrimped on the wall 2x4's and now its hard to hang stuff.

5) GO AS BIG AS YOU CAN AFFORD!!! You can always use more space!!! Sounds like you have a lot of toys too. Spend your money on the basic building and concrete, then in future years you can insulate, do the inside wall, etc.

6) Wish I would have put more windows in. Scrimped on the back side, now its kind of dark. Should have bought the over head doors with windows in. Where I put my workbench, wish I would have put in a bigger south window, nice to get that natural light during the long dark winter. Hint, put work bench on south or west side so you can enjoy the winter sunlight.

Good luck!!!

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Who the heck needs 12ft doors? Max width that can travel down the road is what 8.5 ft? Might be time to head down to the highschool parking lot with some cone and work on backing up a trailer.

Guys like you that come on here and rip on guys for their ideas really cracks me up.

I make my living backing 18 wheelers into some awful tight places. You will have to find someone else to pick on.

The reason I suggested 12 foot doors is it makes it easier to get things near a wall when backing in. Or in my case it makes it easier to get parked four wide in my 30 foot wide shed.

I also like wide doors on those nice summer days. Makes the space seem larger and lets in more light.

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guys I appreciate the input, keep the ideas coming.

One question is how do you go from a dream to making it a reality? Whats the best way to get some ideas on paper etc. I just cant figure out how to take a image in my head and put it on paper so we can get this started. I have a relative that is going to do my footings and he would like to get started in April. What the best way to get him some plans to work with etc.

I am having a tough time finding some designs online because I want it to be gable entry to line up with my house etc. I am going to stop by some lumber yards and see if I can get some actual service to help get the ball rolling. I am not having much luck at with the 4 big box stores locally.

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