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muzzleloader questions


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I have been thinking about getting a muzzleloader for a while now and have the opportunity to get a CVA hunterbolt for under $100. I have only loaded and shot a muzzleloader on one occasion and don't really remember the process.

My questions are: Do any of you have experience with the gun? Would it be worth getting or should I buy new and a differnt model?

What should i look for if purchasing a used product? The owner has never shot it but bought it used as well.

If i bought this gun what would i need to start shooting? What type of primer/cap, powder, bullet?

I realize maybe these are dumb questions and could esasily be found via google, but I don't understand much about them so direct answers to my questions would be more helpful.

Thanks

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If it's your first muzzleloader then i would buy it, no point in buying the most expensive muzzleloader out there and then decideing you don't like it or its to much of a pain to have to clean it after every shot ext... They sell kits that come with almost everything you would need to start shooting, except maybe the powder. Some things to look at when buying a used one is look through the barrel make sure its not all pitted or rusty or dirty, you can tell alot about how the previouse owner took care of the gun by looking through the barrel. But ya i say buy it and hunt with it for a season or two and then decide if you want to upgrade.

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also every muzzleloader likes a different combination of powder/bullet/primer so if it is possible for you, then i would try a bunch of different brands and loads and see which combination your gun likes best. I started out shooting 3 50g pellets and powerbelt bullets but have since switched to 90g loose powder and hornady bullets. The type of primers I used never really made a difference in my gun.

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I used to have the CVA Firebolt. I think the Hunterbolt has a little shorter barrel but overall is the same gun. Overall it was a good gun. I would pull out the breech plug and take a look at the barrel and make sure it is not all pitted up.

I switched to a break open style. Easier to get the primer in and out and don't have to worry about taking apart and cleaning a bolt.

I think these use 209 primers so you would need some of them (I use standard 209 primers). I use loose powder (American Pioneer Powder) and like that over pellets. That is just a personnel preferance. Then finally whatever type of bullet you choose. I have killed deer with both powerbelts and T/C Shockwaves.

Not that it is required but I use bore butter as well. Just helps a bit with loading. Plus when I store it helps with corrosion prevention.

Whether or not it is worth buying is up to you. Might be a good gun to start out with to see if you like muzzleloader hunting. Then you can upgrade later.

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Don't buy 1 that can't fit a scope like I did in 2003 when the first all-season tag came about, you can, but if you'd prefer a scope once it becomes legal get that kind for sure, I think in the next few years scopes are going to be ok, just my gut guess, I'm not in favor mainly because I want it to go back to you rifle or muzzleload, not both, lets use up these rifle tags rather than save the buck tag even if you got a buck so you're at square 1 to muzzy hunt. But, as you get older like me I'd potentially want to use a scope someday. Whatever you buy or decide, read the manual thoroughly and be prepared.

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Before you put 150 grains of powder in the barrel, be sure to call the manufacturer to make sure the barrel was built to withstand 150grains. If it is a CVA gun, you will get a kick out of their response smile

I bought my first muzzle used for $100. It's a break action .50 CVA. It'll work great for you. You can't go wrong for that price. They'll all shoot accurately. Shorter barrels won't burn as much powder as a longer barrel so its likely that you'll be using less than 150 grains anyway to get the full burn.

Clean Clean Clean that gun! It's gotta be spotless.

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I'm a newbie to muzzleloading this year as well. I bought mine earlier this year and have shot it a few times already. After the first time shooting it I cleaned it out really well with solvent and patches until my patches were coming out spotless. Checked the barrel a week later and it had a few spots of rust in the bore. I was a little bit saddened by this and hoped I hadn't already ruined my new gun. I went out and bought some of the foaming bore cleaner after that and since using that haven't had that problem. I think that stuff gets into the rifling and cleans out all the residue a lot better. I also use the rust preventer and seasoning patches now after cleaning.

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I have a hunterbolt and still use it.

it shoots great and it is accurate I have also taken my longest blackpowder kill with this gun 150 yards thru the neck .

The best load I have found for mine is a 240 grain powerbelt bullet and 100 grains of pyrodex pellets = meat on the table

good gun for the money.. you'll like it very much

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Quote:
After the first time shooting it I cleaned it out really well with solvent and patches until my patches were coming out spotless.

I clean my muzzleloaders with warm soap and water. Remove the breech plug and put one end of the barrel in a laundry sink and suck the water into it with a cotton rag on the end of a rod. After you get all the black stuff out with the soap and water, repeat with clean warm water. Dry it out and lubricate it lightly before putting it away. Black powder is corrosive, so you need to get all the residue out of everything everytime you use it.

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I had a hunterbolt solt it last spring and wish I wouldnt have now. I put a set of afermarket truglo sites on it as the screws were stipped out. I never had time so sit down and figure out a load, but shot a decent group at 100 yards using powerbelt aroetip 245gr, and 100gr of triple 7 pellets.

I liked it more than CVA wolf to shoot, but not nearly as easy to put a primer in when your fingers are numb. not all that bad to clean using the soap and hot water like someone above said.

If all your buying is the gun, you will need to pick up some accessories. Breech plug wrench if one doenst come with it. Obviously powder, bullets, and primers. For that gun a priming and decaping tool is almost a must. good luck on your decision

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If scopes become legal they should just let muzzelloaders hunt the regular season and do away with muzzleloader season. Speaking from a person who loves muzzleloading season. But lets be truthful.The primitive part is disappearing and why the season was set up in the first place.

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The reason scopes should be legal is because older people with glasses, might get a cleaner kill. I got hair this year and no blood. Two other years I got some blood but couldn't find them. I'm putting a peep sight on now. I think I would be more accurate with a scope.

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I will never understand why a scope is not legal in Mn.

In ND, I use a scope as it is much easier to get a more accurate shot placement on the deer.

I will never figure out how one can take a 100 yard plus shot with iron sights and know exactly where one is aiming. heck, maybe I am blind or something as it does not work for me.

This year, I shot one of my deer with the Ml at 70 yards. At 100 yards at the range, I cannot see how anyone could put the sight on the exact spot on a deer body as the sight blocks out so much of the body.

I would not even bother to take that shot as I hate to wound deer.

My bet is within 2 years, one will be aloowed scopes on the ML.

Why not, one can be all the more accurate and there would be less wounded deer I believe.

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The number one reason a muzzeloader season was started in Minnesota is it suppose to be a primitive hunt. Yes, maybe you should not being shooting those longer shots. The hunt was suppose to be more than the kill. Allow scopes than why not allow single shot rifles and so on. Now wait these weapons are no different than a rifle you keep adding advantages,why not do away with muzzleloader season than and just have a rifle season.

It getting to be I got to have the kill and than I can get out of the woods faster and get home and etc.. I am not pointing fingers at anyone I and everybody else is guilty, better look where were heading,we might get there and not like what we see.

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Or take closer shots that are a high percentage that those old eyes can handle. That is what YOU OWE too the animal,if you cant see or have a doubt why are you taking the shot in the first place.

Not trying to be a a$$ but just stating the truth. 2c

+1

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The number one reason a muzzeloader season was started in Minnesota is it suppose to be a primitive hunt. Yes, maybe you should not being shooting those longer shots. The hunt was suppose to be more than the kill. Allow scopes than why not allow single shot rifles and so on. Now wait these weapons are no different than a rifle you keep adding advantages,why not do away with muzzleloader season than and just have a rifle season.

It getting to be I got to have the kill and than I can get out of the woods faster and get home and etc.. I am not pointing fingers at anyone I and everybody else is guilty, better look where were heading,we might get there and not like what we see.

As with all hunting, equipment has advanced in quality and performance.

One could say the same thiung about crossbows and compounds. or, look at all the elctronic gear, deer decoy's calls and whatever else to help one harvest a deer.

Right or wrong, the scopes will come and I do not believe it will be long.

As far as you saying it's about the kill, I believe the majority want the kill, Improvements in equipment also help stop wounded animals which I believe the majority would like to see. Clean kills and less wounded deer make all the hunters look better to the general public.

As far as telling others to not take the long shot, I would question why anyone would take a 150 plus yard shot with iron sights. I have no idea how anyone with 20-20 vision can aim at a deer with iron sights and know where they are aiming as the sight blocks out the deer. I am 100% positive that those shooting that far are wounding or missing hopefully many deer. No need for those wounded animals either.

maybe all of my rifles with iron sights have bad sights.

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I will never understand why a scope is not legal in Mn.

In ND, I use a scope as it is much easier to get a more accurate shot placement on the deer.

I will never figure out how one can take a 100 yard plus shot with iron sights and know exactly where one is aiming. heck, maybe I am blind or something as it does not work for me.

This year, I shot one of my deer with the Ml at 70 yards. At 100 yards at the range, I cannot see how anyone could put the sight on the exact spot on a deer body as the sight blocks out so much of the body.

I would not even bother to take that shot as I hate to wound deer.

My bet is within 2 years, one will be aloowed scopes on the ML.

Why not, one can be all the more accurate and there would be less wounded deer I believe.

I agree with your point on scopes...Increased accuracy.

When i got my muzzle two years ago i hated the sights...the glow sights that come standard on almost every muzzle you see. I replaced those sights with other sights, and still didn't like the size of the front sight. Then i put a peep sight on the gun with a custom made front sight. The front sight is very narrow, about .050" This allows me to see exactly where i am shooting at 150 yards or better. At 200 yds, i can easily put that front sight in the dead center of a pie plate. I shot a buck this last weekend at what i though was 150 yds. Deer dropped, but was lost. A range finder would have made that shot a kill. I though i was out 150 yds, but was much closer to 200yds. Luckily i know exacly where i'm shooting at 100yds and at 200yds. The difference between 150 and 200 is why the bullet hit the deer low iin the brisket and allowed the injured deer to escape.

Make scopes legal, but also don't take long shots with the big bead as the front sight. You can't hardly see a 50gal drum at 100yds away with the standard front bead sold stock on most guns these days. Custom thin peep is the way to go for accuracy. Smaller the sight, smaller the target.

Good Luck!

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Quote:
As far as telling others to not take the long shot, I would question why anyone would take a 150 plus yard shot with iron sights. I have no idea how anyone with 20-20 vision can aim at a deer with iron sights and know where they are aiming as the sight blocks out the deer.

I won't take over a 125 yd shot with my muzzleloader, but if the front sight is blocking your sight picture, try sighting the rifle in at a 6 o'clock position, with your front bead directly under the desired point of impact. I get by pretty well with fiber optic sights, and can consistently shoot a 4" group at 100 yds with my ML.

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I am going to take the factory fiber optics sights off the gun as I cannot stand them, they are way to large. I will use a scope in ND and the other sight in Minnesota.

I shoot alot at a gun range and know what the gun can do but it is hard when one can see next to nothing down the sights at longer ranges.

Great sights for under 75 yards.

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The number one reason a muzzeloader season was started in Minnesota is it suppose to be a primitive hunt. Yes, maybe you should not being shooting those longer shots. The hunt was suppose to be more than the kill. Allow scopes than why not allow single shot rifles and so on. Now wait these weapons are no different than a rifle you keep adding advantages,why not do away with muzzleloader season than and just have a rifle season.

It getting to be I got to have the kill and than I can get out of the woods faster and get home and etc.. I am not pointing fingers at anyone I and everybody else is guilty, better look where were heading,we might get there and not like what we see.

I know what you are saying but I think the muzzleloader season has become more of a deer management tool than anything else.

I would love to see a truly primitive season but it is hard to know where to draw the line as far as what is truly primitive. My sidelocks are very accurate, just as accurate as my inlines. The Whitworth rifles of the 1800's were more accurate than most of todays modern inlines.

What makes a gun primitive?

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