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What can I get for under $1000?


Mike Stark

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I traded an old canoe for a '88 Indy 400 with 38xx miles a few years ago. So probably about $250 of value. I gotta say, that old 400 is still doing a great job of pulling my Otter Cabin or old Voyager or both, and sometimes with two people on it. Starts easy, runs good, and is very light. Also serves as my extra sled when trail riding - but is a kidney buster so I don't ride that one on the trails wink

Last year we had quite a bit of slush and it pulled through it fine with the snub-nosed Voyager in tow. Also serves as great intro sled for kids to learn on, and I don't care about dings or dents wink

If anybody is looking and wondering about old Polaris Indy 400's (liquid cooled) I can say it is a great sled for the price especially for ice fishing, but it aint that comfortable compared to newer sleds, of course. I would not sell this one for even $500 now, it just works so well for what I need it for. Good luck.

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I used to ride an 89 indy 400 of my uncles once in awhile. I was surprised how zippy that sled was. They are rock solid reliable too, and with being liquad cooled it helps on those warm days. On a 35-40 degree day those fans are a dog. That 400 had A LOT more snort than that Sport 440 fan did too.

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I used to ride an 89 indy 400 of my uncles once in awhile. I was surprised how zippy that sled was. They are rock solid reliable too, and with being liquad cooled it helps on those warm days. On a 35-40 degree day those fans are a dog. That 400 had A LOT more snort than that Sport 440 fan did too.

FYI - I am old and fat wink and I still got it up to 70+ on the speedo, just to see how fast it would go. It still would have had a bit of speed left, but I just felt that it proved its point, haha! And haven't gone that fast on it again. Not exactly a smooooooth ride, haha! But easy starting so that even my 11 yo granddaughter can pull it started. Nice. It was a little rip snorter back in its day, and still has plenty snort left smile

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Here is a pic of the sled.

sled2.jpg

Mike

I have heard of people making some small brackets and dropping the track down out of the tunnel a bit to get more snow depth. You maybe able to search the Net and find something on the Tube or some where on the How-to's to do it? wink

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Probably the sled just needs to have the suspension maxed out. There wasn't a ton of travel on these older Polaris sled suspensions, but ramping up the suspension changed everything on my 92 2-up Indy Trail.

When you say "have the suspension maxed out" do you mean adjusting it on the sled? I don't think it is set up has high as it can go.

Is this an easy process?

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Looking at the photo, I'm sure it's not set as high as it can go. It's a pretty easy process to do on the sled, Mike. I had more money than time last year, so I just had Joe's Marine do it. Didn't cost much at all. Frank can easily lead you through it if you want to do it yourself.

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An simple way to get a little more deep snow/slush performance is to drop the track down. Move the bolt (both sides) with the arrow on it to the hole on the tunnel below the running boards. There is another one further forward (just about under the pull start handle.) that can be moved down also.

sled2arrow.jpg

The limiter strap(s) towards the front of the rear suspension can also be loosened. That will give you more travel but you won't have as much ski pressure so the handling will be a little less.

If you could get a hold of an owners manual that may have some additional configuration changes to get you some more travel and/or deep snow performance and it typically is stuff you can do with simple tools.

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Spring tension is set about half way and doesn't bottom out with 200 lb rider but if you need to stiffen it up you can.

The camera angle is misleading, the sled doesn't sag under its own weight.

Sure you could drop the track for more lift. In a nutshell, remove the two rear bolts, drill out the rivets on the backing plate and add a longer plate. rivet it on, drill new mounting holes. Or you can leave it as is. As Casey's arrow points out you'll have to add that plate.

This sled won't be a good hill climber in Yellowstone, it is what it is.

Build up the riding skills because that will get you more places and out of more situations then HP alone can.

As far as overheating, liquids will overheat too if there isn't enough snow to collect on heat exchangers.

Since you have a fan, about the only thing to avoid is pulling a load in deep heavy wet snow in warm temps.

More times then not, it is the above situation + a dirty carb causing a lean condition that leads to overheating and cooked engines.

Having said that I've never overheated a fan.

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If I remember right, our 91 sport had rear drop brackets from the factory. Another rear mounting hole just below the tunnel. Run the limiter loose, quarter inch of thread showing behind the nut on the adjuster bolt. I can't even remember if it had that setup, or the holes in the strap style to loosen it up...

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An simple way to get a little more deep snow/slush performance is to drop the track down. Move the bolt (both sides) with the arrow on it to the hole on the tunnel below the running boards. There is another one further forward (just about under the pull start handle.) that can be moved down also.

Hey, didn't I already say that above! whistlegrin

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I've got a 92 Sport GT. Same year, engine and color as Mikes. I was all set to lower the suspension (as described above) and was checking the Clymer shop manual. You can't just change the suspension haphazardly. There are specific patterns on both the front and rear mounting brackets that vary with suspension type and sled type. The manual warns that faulty adjustments can cause damage to the tunnel and/or drive train. I asked a sled mechanic about this, and he told me the machines were engineered and designed to be used in the default settings and that varying them would shorten the life of the drive sprockets and drive train. I left mine in the default position.

BTW, I've got almost 10K mi. on it and am still going strong! smile

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I talked to Frank and he thinks it will be fine. After looking at the picture and actually looking at the sled, the picture makes it look like it is sitting very low. its really not that low.

i will find out once we get some snow.

Exactly. No need to adjust something that doesn't need it. Wait and see how it does with all your gear on it. If you and the gear don't bottom out the sled on the bumps, you're good to go. And if you get a front auger rack built, I doubt you'll have any trouble at all. If memory serves, cost me about $30 at Joe's to max out the suspension.

After the Yammie, it'll feel like you're riding a luxury sled. smile

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Mike,

According to what I see in the picture, the lugs on the track are fairly short. With you being the type that likes to go the places that you do, I highly suggest adding some studs to that track.

For most of your trips I'll bet you'll be just fine but for "those" days when things get messy you'll wish you had the added traction. Better to do it now if you can. It wouldn't take many. JMO.

Enjoy it!

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