Quack grass

[SkunkedAgain]

I understand that this is a good time to work on my quack grass problem. I was just going to hit my local small-time hardware store to see what they suggest, but with the wealth of knowledge out here, what would you all recommend? Fairly good sized portions of my front and back yards have quack grass popping up mid-summer, so it's not just spot treatment...and we're only talking about a quarter acre.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

You won't be able to kill it unless you use Roundup. You can either do spot treatments, sections, or the whole yard. You'll have to hit it 2-3 times to be sure it's gone, and then it still might not be.

[Lund79]

I just bought some Certainty turf herbicide. I am sick of cutting out the spots and patching with new sod. A friend works at a golf course and he says this what they use to control it. It takes multiple treatments but will eventually take care of it. It's expensive stuff but I won't have to worry about killing the grass when using roundup (on a hockey stick).

[LwnmwnMan2]

Be very careful with the Certainty. Overdoing it will work just like Roundup.

Most places you can't even get it anymore.

[Powerstroke]

Quack popping up in the middle of summer....sounds more like crabgrass to me. Crabgrass grows as individual plants from a common center. Quack grows like a regular grass, but with unique, fast-growing thick blades. If you know its quack, then I use roundup. Since it grows faster than the rest of the lawn its easy to single out and apply herbicide to.

Crabgrass

Quackgrass

[SkunkedAgain]

Well I guess that it is crab grass based on the links provided. It really blooms midsummer and then turns reddish-brown...and looks like the picture.

[Lund79]

Be very careful with the Certainty. Overdoing it will work just like Roundup.

Most places you can't even get it anymore.

I hear ya on the not overdoing part. I am reading the labels 2-3 times to make sure it's applied correctly.

[sticknstring]

My yard's full of quack... nasty stuff. Seems to get worse every year. May have to break down and apply roundup with a paintbrush. Going to spray with 24D tonight to take care of all the broadleafs.

[crothmeier]

i had it in a few spots of my lawn. sat on my butt and pulled for an afternoon. took care of most of it.

[Thermos]

I had a quack grass problem this year too. I used a product called Q4 plus. Its the only thing on the market you can spray to kill quack and not harm you lawn. I put it in a 2 gallon pump sprayer and mixed 3 oz/gallon. After two applications.....no more quack. Its a little pricey but way easier than other methods.

[hotrod1]

Q4 does not control Quackgrass

[Powerstroke]

Well I'm glad my links cleared up the identification. Based on your statement I thought it may be crabgrass and you described it to a T. It should have turned red this fall and is dying off now. There really isn't anything you can do to it right now since they are annual plants. They are dead.

The number one way to get rid of crabgrass is to do a Pre-emergent application in the spring. It is a chemical product you apply before the plants come up. It creates a chemical barrier in the soil that does not allow the new plants to sprout up. The application lasts 4-6 weeks. Those with heavy crabgrass cover should plan for two applications. This will prevent the plant from ever growing. Since the plant produces so many seeds each year it is unlikely that you will get to a point where there aren't any seeds left in the soil, but the treatment is very easy and low maintenance. You can do it yourself if you have the means or you can hire a quality company.

Once the plant has sprouted there are a couple products that will work, but timing is important and the products are expensive.

[Powerstroke]

As far as quack, it is a perennial grass and is always growing and spreading through its rhizomes. I know there are some products that are out there that claim to work on it, but they will all effect your lawn in some way since it is all grass.

I prefer the roundup and the paintbrush or sponge, but it is tough if you have a large area of quack. That being said, if you've got a large area, you're better off nuking that area with roundup or another glyphosate product and starting new since there will be little left once you kill the quack anyway.

[Powerstroke]

hotrod is correct, Q4 is for broadleaf weeds and crabgrass, but not quack. It also has been discontinued.

[SkunkedAgain]

Thanks Powerstroke. I'll hit the crabgrass in the spring I guess.

...and yes, I have a nice reddish-brown lawn right now

[Powerstroke]

I'm glad I could help and I'm actually glad its crabgrass. Its much easier to deal with and you should notice the change next season.

[UMC]

What do you use for a pre-emergent? I've used the halts stuff before from Scotts I believe.

[Powerstroke]

I've always used Lesco products, but most of the name brands are good. Its like getting a generic drug at the pharmacy. There isn't much in trade secrets in pre-emergent anymore. I like to use one that is mixed with the fertilizer. Spread it on the lawn and water it in. Its as easy as it gets.

[Rip_Some_Lip]

Is it still a good time to spray for broadleaf weeds or is it getting too late? I bought some Trimec and havent had time or optimal conditions to spray yet. I am thinking of doing it one of these mornings that it is a heavy dew. Thanks.

[LwnmwnMan2]

You don't need a heavy dew to spray Trimec. You need a heavy dew to spread weed n feed so the granules stick to the leaves.

[Moose-Hunter]

Seems like my "new" (2 seasons old) back yard is infected with quack. It sickens me knowing the only "cure" is a complete nuke. That said... If there's ANY hope to save it what can I do? If not... Should I hit it now with the Roundup or wait until spring?

And yes... It's too large an area to spot treat. Unless you're offering your services.

[Tom7227]

I don't think you have to kill it all. I have had some success with a foam paint brush on a stick and a can of Roundup mix. The quack grows fast enough that it gets taller than the regular grass and all you need to do is go around and paint the taller stuff. You'll get some of the regular grass as well but it's better than starting from scratch.

[delcecchi]

After reading that, I wonder if a guy could make something sort of like what they used to use to kill volunteer corn in soybeans. It was a bar that rode high enough to clear the beans and was wet with roundup, some sort of wicking arrangement.

I would get one or two of those rollers that fleet farm sells for coating driveways, and mount them on something that could be towed around the yard, with a can of roundup solution going by means of a tube to the hollow center. Poke a few little holes to let it ooze out to the outside. Or use a few cheap paint rollers to do the same thing. Let the solution drip onto them to keep them wet.

Adjust to proper height next summer. It should work, unless you have the new Roundup Ready Quack.

[LwnmwnMan2]

After reading that, I wonder if a guy could make something sort of like what they used to use to kill volunteer corn in soybeans. It was a bar that rode high enough to clear the beans and was wet with roundup, some sort of wicking arrangement.

I would get one or two of those rollers that fleet farm sells for coating driveways, and mount them on something that could be towed around the yard, with a can of roundup solution going by means of a tube to the hollow center. Poke a few little holes to let it ooze out to the outside. Or use a few cheap paint rollers to do the same thing. Let the solution drip onto them to keep them wet.

Adjust to proper height next summer. It should work, unless you have the new Roundup Ready Quack.

Do a google for herbicide roller and there are already over the counter products that do this.

I DO appreciate your last line as well.