Jump to content

  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Rifle

snapcrackpop

By snapcrackpop
in Turkey Hunting

 Share

Recommended Posts

snapcrackpop Experienced

snapcrackpop

Posted
Posted

Dad (79) and I hope to hit SD this fall for mule deer and turkeys.

With limited turkey hunts under our belt and the focus on mule deer I was looking for opinions on rifle caliber and shot placement for turkeys. I'm thinking 17HMR with the 20gr for head or spine shots and maybe my .357 rifle (1.5" groups @ 100 yrds)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
goblueM Grand Master

goblueM

Posted
Posted

many states allow rifles. Minnesota does not.

Very popular in Texas, some folks in Virginia use them. Myself, I'd rather shoot one in close, but for those looking just to get a bird a rifle is a good option. Very nice for large fields. I would think smaller caliber is better, wouldn't want to have just a mangled mess of bird left with no good breast meat

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Wanderer Grand Master

Wanderer

Posted
Posted

It is legal in SD and several other states to hunt turkeys with a rifle. If you can get them in the head, either should work, but that's harder than you might think. For a body shot I'll bet you blow the bird to Ransom come with the .357 rifle.

Speaking from experience (shot at a tom in SD with a .22.250), a shotgun is your best bet. You can bench shoot a target all you want but if you have the slightest bit of adrenaline flowing and don't have an outstanding rest, you are not likely to hit the head/neck on your first shot and even less after that.

This is just my opinion though, so do what you like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rundrave Grand Master

rundrave

Posted
Posted

im not a turkey expert, nor a rifle expert, but I do know that it is legal to shoot turkey with a riflein South Dakota.

This is from the SDGFP:

http://gfp.sd.gov/hunting/big-game/regulations/default.aspx

Turkey - Shoulder-held firearms using ammunition which is factory-rated to produce at least 700 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle and handguns using ammunition which is factory-rated to produce at least 500 foot-pounds of energy at the muzzle may be used in the hunting of wild turkeys. Muzzleloading firearms of at least .44 caliber and muzzleloading shotguns may also be used in the hunting of wild turkeys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
goblueM Grand Master

goblueM

Posted
Posted

Just to add to Wanderers point about accuracy - this spring my buddy was trying to use his 30-30 as a desperate move to get his first bird. He had some shooting sticks to set it up, so he could stay accurate given adrenaline. Well, that whole deal made him way too visible and the birds picked him out - even though the bird was 120 yards away

So if you're gonna use one with a rest make sure you are well hidden and can cover various areas in your view field without having to reposition your bench/sticks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cheetah Mentor

Cheetah

Posted
Posted

Dad (79) and I hope to hit SD this fall for mule deer and turkeys. With limited turkey hunts under our belt and the focus on mule deer I was looking for opinions on rifle caliber and shot placement for turkeys. I'm thinking 17HMR with the 20gr for head or spine shots and maybe my .357 rifle (1.5" groups @ 100 yrds)

Shoot for the vitals on body just like the bow hunters. Spine shot from behind is good I've been told by guys who have done it in SD. Try not to use a big shell like for deer or you'll blow up a lot of meat.

Late spring season out in the Black Hills you can drive the forest roads and basically call and shoot right from the truck. Can cover a lot of ground that way to locate birds. I'm told a lot of the locals will do that. For fall hunting though I don't know if the same tactics work other than trying to spot the bird and shoot before it gets out of range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept