Mold on inside of 2 year old windows

[fishhuntwork]

Recently noticed that they interior of my windows has lots of condensation and there is mold growning on the sills. I also noticed that the builder didn't wrap the windows! I don't know much about building construction, could this have something to do with it? If so how do I go about it with the contractor? Should I have him redo them or should I find someone else that has a good rep and have the last contractor pay for the repairs?

[walleyeseeker]

The only way you will get the original contractor to pay for the repair is to take him to court. He may be willing to do it himself, but if you try to make him pay for someone else's work, you just put him on the defensive. Try talking it out calmly and try to avoid finger pointing. Think of what how happy you are when someone tells you that whatever you did is wrong.

I am a contractor and have had one of these calls. I offered to fix the problem at my expense until the accusations got out of hand. After that, I'll see them in court.

[King Canada]

Your house is too humid.

[Pat K]

I agree with King Canada, it sounds more like to much humidity in the house than a problem with the windows instalation.

[Surface Tension]

Moister condensing on the cold glass. Nothing to do with install.

Wash the windows with Windex and your good to go as far as mold.

[daylate]

do you have a air to air exchanger? is it working? Also use exhaust fans when showering and cooking.

[Esox_Magnum]

What do you mean by wrapping?? Is the trim not wrapped in meta or the windows were not taped/caulked in?

I agree with the condensation/household moisture issue, if your getting moisture on the inside of the glass thats not due to window install. Moisture between panes would be the manufaturer, unless you have drafts coming in around the trim of the window itself then it's not a builder/install issue.

What is your humidifier set at on the furnace if you have one, and do you have an air exchanger and is it working properly. One more thing, nat gas or propane?

[eyeguy 54]

Get that moisture level checked. If you see it on new windows it's everywhere. I do a lot of windows and moisture level is the culprit. 99% of the time.

[fishhuntwork]

I have been running my dehunmidifier the past few days and it has improved. I have the setting at 35%. I was wondering where I found the mold do I have to remove all the trim and make sure there is no mild underneath? I have baseboard radiated heat, so I guess its time to put force air in. Do I purso the contractor about not wrapping the frame and have him redo it?

[Surface Tension]

House wrap has nothing to do with condensation on the windows. The moister inside your home is hitting the glass and condensing. My house is at 24% humidity right now without running a dehumidifier. What is your humidity at without running a dehumidifier? To me it sounds like you have to reduce the humidity in your home.

House wrap is a breathable air infiltration barrier. If this was new construction the wrap would go around your rough opening and be cut off. That is a just a way to terminate it at windows and doors and keeping some what sealed. Your windows nailing flange would go over the house wrap. Between your window jamb and RO is stuffed with insulation or blown insulation. So you won't know if the window was wrapped or not because you can't see it. Still as said that has nothing to do with your condensation on the window. Forced air heat isn't the answer either.

[MNice]

Ventilate,Ventilate,Ventilate. Be it by bath fans, air to air exchanger, kitchen exhaust, cracking open a window for a bit, whatever. Was your house inspected? If so, they should have the ventilation worksheet available. This will tell how they planned to ventilate your house. There are provisions to have exhaust only ventilation and it works fine, you just have to use it. If you have good bath fans rated for continuous operation, leave one run 24/7 for a few days and see if that helps.

good luck and keep us posted.

[BoxMN]

I didn't get mold, but have new construction and was seeing condensation on my windows last winter when we had a bunch of people up. My builder told me that the house was still getting rid of moisture (concrete basement floor, other building materials) and also people in the place and cooking add to it. We have air exchanger so now when we are there (its a cabin) I turn the exchanger to 30 or 40% if lots of people or even 100% if lots of cooking, just durign the cooking, and then when we leave I turn it back down to 10% or 20%. I guess I just have to find the happy medium. So far this winter only saw condensation a time or two, and could hardly see it without getting close and looking, so it must be getting better. I also put a timer on bathroom fan and that has helped.

I need to get a good temp/humidity/barometer for the joint.

[muchowja]

Legally you cannot have someone else do the work and make the previous contractor pay for it unless you submit to him , in writing, a description of the problem and give him an opportunity to rectify the problem himself. Then he has a certain amount of time to try and take care of the problem before you can hold him responsible for the costs incurred by hiring someone else to take care it.

[Mnfisher]

I've had the same problem, even a small amount of mold on the sils. I don't have an air exchanger but had a 6" vent installed directly to my cold air duct and have the damper about 1/2 open. I ran the bathroom fan all day (had to turn it off at night because it was so noisy. Get one with 1 or 1.5 sones for a quieter running fan). I ran the ceiling fan either in the 4 season porch or the dining room almost continuatlly. This has helped 95% over the previous winters. I also run a portable dehumidifier in the basement continually. Humidity now statying about 30 - 35% as compared to 55% in previous winters. I have noticed the furnace runs a little more with the cold air coming in, and the electric bill a little higher with the bathroom fan and ceiling fans running, but not that much and it is worth it to reduce the condensation. Air exchangers cost to run too. Good Luck!

[eyeguy 54]

All good ideas guys. Radiant heat will put out moisture. A nature of the beast. Forced air will help if it's time for an upgrade. Moisture makes it easier to heat the house but it's not good for the house to have toooo much.

[fishhuntwork]

Its time for an upgrade, I think it maybe the orginal boiler. It sure will be nice to have forced air with central air. Anyone ever put one in?

[deerminator]

We have had the same issue with mositure and the air exchanger does solve the problem. When we notice the water on the windows, we crank it up til its gone. When mold has developed, we simply clean with windex. It shouldn't be going under the trim, so there should be no issue there. It's a problem of being too energy efficient many times and that the windows and house are sealed up too tight. Good luck with everything.

[MNice]

I did plumbing & heating for 16 years, now a metro inspector for 15. Have put in many many forced air units. Feel free to ask away with any questions you have. Lay out of the system is crucial, especially in your case since there is no ductwork. I assumed you house was 2 years old, but I re-read your post and its your windows that are 2, right?

[sparkyaber]

What brand of windows are we talking here? I have Scherer bros. windows and they are rotting away. The windows were fine until last spring and all of the sudden they started to get a black and rot. If you have schereer bros, let me know, I may have some helpful info for you.

[Dave]

I had Scherer Bros windows when the house was built and they only lasted about 12 years. I had to replace a handful of crank mechanisms, too. Luckily, all my windows were replaced a few years back because of storm damage. Might be the same builder we had in this area.

[fishhuntwork]

I have Lindsay windows in the home, made in N. Mankato. The house was built in 1957. I will be installing a forced air system this summer, any help would be great. I will be doing it myself with a few buddies, 1 with HVAC experience. I need to save some money, I got a quote 2 yrs ago and it was about $11,000 with everything but the high voltage elec. done.

[King Canada]

Baseboard heat is typically very dry heat. I think you've got some other source of humidity. Don't shell out for a new system that won't solve your problem.

[Flinny]

I agree heat and the windows are not the issue, like everyone else has said humidity is the main problem. Things to keep in mind that add high moisture levels: cooking, showers expecially with a large number of people in the household , plants, fish tanks, humitifers...ect.. So the way that you live now produces high moisture levels, and like others have mentioned the only way to ruduce this is by bath fans, air to air, cracking the windows open, also leave the blinds open during the day so the air circulating in the house gets a chance to hit the windows so the condinsatiion dosen't freeze.

Hope this helps

Flinny