Magnum 49cc III help

[jerkbait1]

I have a Strikemaster Magnum 49cc III Plus Ice Auger, and I need some help with the adjustment screws on the carb. It starts fine with a full choke, and no throttle, and then at half choke I have to give it lots of gas just to keep it from dieing. With no choke at all it will not stay on. It has a rebuilt carb on it, new spark plug, and new gas mix. I've searched for the factory settings on these adjustment screws but I can't seem to find the info anywhere. I'll take a picture at lunch so hopefully you guys will have a better idea of what I am talking about. (and hopefully can help me!!!)

**Added Picture***

I understand each screw has to be changed in small intervals, but does anyone know what each individual screw does? I currently have the smaller screw on the right turned out about 1 and 1/4 turns, and the larger screw on the left is turned out about 5/8 of a turn. It starts fine in full choke, and does ok at half choke for a few seconds and then dies out.

[Big Fish Hunter247]

here is what I did with mine I turned the fuel mixture screw in till it just barely stopped than when it stopped I went a full turn and a half out with it got it to run than just adjusted it till it ran smooth. you go on way it will die get in the middle it should run fine if you go too far it will die too find that happy medium

I hope that explains it

[mr_jman]

I have this exact same auger and asked a question somewhat similiar to this. It may be on page 3 or 4 but if you need more help go there.

I did the some thing as Big Fish Hunter. I turned it all the way in, and then turned it out about 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time until I found a happy medium.

Mine would bog out or die after a few inches of drilling.

I was able to get it running good again while drilling, but now it's starting very rough and dies much like yours has been if I dont keep the throttle full on it.

If you work at it for 10 - 15 minutes you should be able to get a setting that works. I'm in the same boat you are, so I know how badly you want to get it running good again!

[Wes Ellis]

The jet should start at 1 1/4 turn. then adjust from there,very little at a time.the passage ways in it are small so you may have to take a part again spray carb cleaner in it and blow out with air.You might try some see-foam. Good Luck,Wes Ellis

[jerkbait1]

 Originally Posted By: Wes Ellis

The jet should start at 1 1/4 turn. then adjust from there,very little at a time.the passage ways in it are small so you may have to take a part again spray carb cleaner in it and blow out with air.You might try some see-foam. Good Luck,Wes Ellis

So I should leave the screw on the left as is? and only adjust the one on the right in small increments?

[Surface Tension]

Assuming the carb was thoroughly cleaned, fuel level set, new diaphragms/kit installed, clean filter/screen in the tank, good connections to fuel line your next step is to adjust the carb.

Since you can't keep it running without choke then richen the mixture by turning out the mixture screw. Do so with very small adjustments till the auger idles on its own with no choke and not having to give it gas. Get to the point of highest idle then back out the mixture screw till the engine just starts to slow.

Now get it on the ice and get it under load. If it cuts good under load and idles good leave it there. If it bogs under load you'll need to determine if the mixture is too rich or not rich enough. Do so very small adjustments. Get it to where it'll run good under load. Now your idle may have changed. Before doing anything with the mixture try turning up the idle speed stop screw.

As you can see it takes some tweaking. If the carb isn't clean, fuel level improper, or warn diaphragms you won't get it to run correctly under both conditions of idle and under load.

[Wes Ellis]

The big screw Left,it the idle screw The little one is the mixter. Chanses are the little one needs to be opened a little.But Serface Tension has a good point carb cleaned and fuel level set ,diaphragms installed properly. Wes Ellis P.S. I I worked ice augers for 20 pluss years.

[jerkbait1]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll have some time this evening to work on it and I'll let you know how it goes.

[jerkbait1]

Well I had a chance to tweak it last night, and I still can't seem to get it right. At full choke it idles just fine and will stay running, but as soon as I go to half choke, it floods and dies. I assume this means I need to tighten the smaller screw on the right in small increments because the mixture is too lean, but as I turn this screw clockwise, it only results in the engine not starting at all, even in full choke.

[borg0196]

Sorry to take this another way, I have the same auger. It ran great last year, now the gas doesn't move through the line, any suggestions?

[harleyharry]

Jerkbait.

Sorry to hear you have a problem. Your post states that the machine will idle at full choke and flood out at half choke. This is almost impossible. At full choke you are pulling in all the fuel the intake can pull. At half choke, only half the amount.

The problem you describe is starvation of fuel. You original post states the engine has a rebuilt carb. Did you do this, or did you purchase another carb? If so, why. The original problem is always the place to start.

If the carb has been rebuilt, I suspect the internal filter is plugged and wasn't cleaned or changed. Also, before you do any more carb work, is the tank vent open? The small mixture screw on the right in your picture is the only one you use to mix the fuel/air mixture and is mostly used for idle mixture, but will affect the overall running of the engine. Turn the screw in lightly to stop, turn counter clockwise two turns. Run to test. If it is not any better, then the carb has to be torn down and cleaned again, properly this time.

Hope this helps.

Harry

[Brad B]

Sorry to take this another way, I have the same auger. It ran great last year, now the gas doesn't move through the line, any suggestions?

borg0196 send me a PM with your Email address and I can send you copies of the repair manuals and the carb manual for this auger. they are PDF files of the manuals.

[Walleyehooker]

I would be leaning towards the diaphragm tab needing adjustment or a new diaphragm. Pretty common problem. Check on u tube for some videos.

[20lbSloughShark]

I have the exact same auger. I've had to deal with the carb only once luckily, but the Warlbro carbs are prone to cloging. After checking the basics, I would bet carb. I doubt the vent screw will cause this, but check. Then check compression and spark. Compression should be somewhere around 110-120 psi. At least that's what mine is, and it runs good. If all that checks out, a carb cleaning is reletively easy. I'll post the diagram at the bottom. What really does it, is the carb has 2 screens in it that clog. I recommend buying a rebuild kit off e.bay, dissembling the whole carb, soaking it in carb cleaner (the best is to buy the paint can kind) for 24 hours, and re-assembling it with the new parts.

It is a good auger, very reliable and easy to start. Today in 4 degrees it took 2 pulls at full choke and I was good to go. The only problem these augers really have is the worst gas tank design I have ever seen. Who ever decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the tank better have been fired. The line shrinks every year, and leaks gas over everything. Then you have to pull it apart, and somehow wedge the new line and filter back in the hole.

[Dogzlife000]

I have the same auger and it runs like a champ. I did go through numerous gas lines due to shrinkage and leaks. Now I store the auger with a full tank of stabilized gas. Helps, I might get 4-5 years on a gas line now.

To the OP, did you try simple stuff first. Loosen gas cap and try running it. Could be a vent issue.

[20lbSloughShark]

Seems like I have 2 options, I can leave it full of gas, and it leaks all that over stuff around the end of October (when it gets cold). Or I can empty all the gas, and the line will be shot in a week. I've always done the first one, and it has happened every single year.

[borg0196]

Anyone know where I can get a new gas line?

[20lbSloughShark]

Its an 1/8" gas line. You can get it at nearly any parts store. I got it at NAPA. I also recommend getting a new fuel filter, they are maybe $2 tops. I have a bunch now, because I expect to replace it every year. I think I found it at a hardware store, but it is not hard to find.

Just so you're clear, the big screw on the left in the picture is only for idle. If it idles without dying, let it be. The one on the right affects your air/fuel.