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About harleyharry

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 07/19/1952

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  • Location:
    Northern Michigan
  1. Rick There is a special tool for the carb adjustment, if your carb is adjustable. You will have to obtain the tool from a Solo dealer, or the carb manufacture. The new tool will slide over the adjustment screw. Say thank you to the EPA and CARB of California Harry
  2. You may not know that Tecumseh went out of business some years ago. I have problems from time to time getting parts, but not a month for any unless the part is obsolete. Try another source for the parts. The recoil parts for that engine is quite common, and a lot of small engine dealers may have the parts on hand. Harry
  3. There is a company in Mi which makes a real nice mount for sleds and atvs. Just google auger carrier and the name will pop up. Do not know the rules about posting the name here
  4. Jerkbait. Sorry to hear you have a problem. Your post states that the machine will idle at full choke and flood out at half choke. This is almost impossible. At full choke you are pulling in all the fuel the intake can pull. At half choke, only half the amount. The problem you describe is starvation of fuel. You original post states the engine has a rebuilt carb. Did you do this, or did you purchase another carb? If so, why. The original problem is always the place to start. If the carb has been rebuilt, I suspect the internal filter is plugged and wasn't cleaned or changed. Also, before you do any more carb work, is the tank vent open? The small mixture screw on the right in your picture is the only one you use to mix the fuel/air mixture and is mostly used for idle mixture, but will affect the overall running of the engine. Turn the screw in lightly to stop, turn counter clockwise two turns. Run to test. If it is not any better, then the carb has to be torn down and cleaned again, properly this time. Hope this helps. Harry
  5. I have worked on a bunch of the solo auger with the same problem. What I have found is that the lines seem to shrink when in storage and do not have fuel in them. Testing in my shop seems to show that in about fifteen minutes, the lines swell up enough to seal the leak. The only seal on the lines and the grommet is the size of the line which is an interference fit to the grommet, meaning the id of the grommet is smaller than the od of the line. I have had five of these machines now that have not leaked for the whole season last year. I have had my customers use fuel conditioner in the fuel and leave the fuel in the tank. Fuel needs to be fresh at the time of storage. Harry
  6. Two years ago I purchased one of the new Otter Magnum Lodge insulated. This is the blue camo shanty. My question is, is there any difference between the insulated blue camo, and the new 1200 pro shanty? I like the looks of the new shanty versus the camo blue look. Other than the cosmetics of the portable, is there enough difference in the two units that would make me replace my camo insulated Otter for the new Otter pro 1200? Thanks in advance for the info. Harry
  7. I recently purchased a new Lowrance Elite 7 HDI finder. The unit comes with the base maps loaded, but they are very basic. I am looking at purchasing a new chip but need some advise. I have an I Finder and a 522 Lowrance with the Lake Master chip I have used for the last four years, and would never be without it. I understand that this chip can no longer be used in the Lowrance. I have no way to view the chips that are offered by Lowrance and Navionics to see what one would be closer to the old Lake Master chip. The one Navionics that I did see, did not impress me. Any advise on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help. Our season is open, and I am getting anxious. Harry
  8. If you are going to continue to run the gen on the ice, you can remove the air cleaner. There is no ambient dust in the air in the winter, so an air cleaner is not needed. As the air cleaner picks up snow particles, they become embedded in the filter material. When the engine shuts down, the engine temp will melt the snow, turning it to ice. When you refilled the gen, and restarted it, the air cleaner was plugged with ice. This is what accounts for the extreme consumption of fuel. The engine was running like the choke was in the start position. Air does not travel through ice. Hope this helps in the future. Harry
  9. My Lodge was the same way. This is not normal. I found that the instructions are wrong in the paperwork that is sent with the cover. Go back to the materials list and you will see the difference in the terms used for the frames, versus the written instructions. One or two of the arms are installed incorrectly. It has been a year since I assembled mine, and I cannot remember which one I had to change. Hope this helps. Harry
  10. I just got off the lake from an afternoon of fishing. I had debated about going, as the wind was up to 35 miles an hour gusts. But due to the fact that I had purchased a new Otter Lodge Thermal portable, I figured this would be a good time to test this and see if the info I had been getting was correct. Got on the lake at about 2:00 pm. Got set up and got all the drilling done. Fishing was very slow, but had a few hits on the tip ups, so the door was opened a few times. Temp was about 28 degrees with the wind at 35mph. With the Otter banked around the bottom, I was amazed how warm the portable was. I know the temp was not that cold, but with the wind, being on the ice and not in the shanty was quite brutal. The noise level was about half of what it would be with a standard Otter. At 5:30 pm, I lit my big buddy and set it on low. In about 10 minutes, I had my coat off and was fishing in a car-hart tee shirt, and was quite comfortable. If the door was opened to go out, the shanty warmed up very fast. At no time did I have the big buddy higher than low. Oh, and by the way, I do not fish in any of the gear we have available today. I have a pair of snowmobile bibs that I purchased about 10 years ago, and a 20.00 camo coat with a hood from Wally World. Anyone thinking about purchasing a thermal portable, and is still undecided, need to experience a thermal only once to know they would never go back to a non thermal portable. I know. I have four other Otters, and have had issues with all of them. Otter has stepped up with this thermal. I was to the point of not using portables any more. This shanty has changed my mind. I have a 6x12 permanent that I have not put out yet due to late ice, and I will not put it out now that I have the new thermal. I am quite happy with this portable. I am not happy with the customer service out of Otter over the last three years, but they have stepped up and started looking at quality control. If my Lodge is any indication of the new Otters that are being manufactured, Otter will be around for a long time. Harry
  11. Does anyone know what the new Otter thermals are made of. I have read so much about the NorpacR2 that Canvas Craft uses, I was wondering if this is the same material that Otter is using on there new portables. I would ask Otter, but they do not seem interested in answering there e-mails. The other question I have is if the new cabin will fit on the new style bar system, or if they had to redesign the pole system Thank You Harry
  12. Has anyone got one of these yet. I have been seeing them advertised lately. I an the owner of three Otter portables, and have issues with all of them. When I purchase my first one many years ago, the customer service was very good out of Otter, but a couple of years ago, not so good. I am wondering about the quality of the new thermals. I have has a lot of issues with the support poles, and the covers being too short. Was wondering if these issues are still issues. The closet dealer I have is fifty miles away, and they do not have the new models in yet. Too many old models left over from last year. The next dealer is three hours away. Any info would be appreciated. I fish out of a 6x12 permanent, but that gets old sometimes. Harry
  13. It sounds like the timing for your electronic ignition is off. When the ignition module is installed on the engine, it should be about .012 from the flywheel. If it is any closer than that, the engine will fire before the piston is in the correct position, which will rip the starter rope from your hand. If the auger is that new, it should be under warranty. The other item is if the engine has a compression release. If so, make sure that you depress the release before you try to start. Harry
  14. Being that the machine is only two years old, I doubt that the carb needs cleaning. Does the engine run good? Does it cut good and seem to have enough power? If so, check the linkage to the carb throttle assembly. Just watch how all the linkages move as you move the throttle lever. If all of this is free, there is an idle stop screw on the side of the carb. You will see where this screw contacts the throttle shaft lever on the carb. Just turn the stop screw out counter clockwise about 1/4 turn. This should solve the problem. Harry
  15. Bobber Down From the way you explain the engine is running when you make carb adjustments, it sounds like the metering diaphragm is getting old and stiff. When this happens, it will form a concave in the middle of the diaphragm. This will cause the diaphragm to contact the inlet needle, which unseats the needle allowing more fuel into the carb metering well. A new carb kit will take care of this. If you have good enough compression that the engine starts good, then the compression is good enough. If you have a seal leak, the engine will run at high rpms when the engine is at idle. Good Luck Harry
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