Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Pros and Cons of 8 inch auger vs 10 inch


Hoffer

Recommended Posts

I am thinking of picking up a new gas auger. Does anyone have any advice on choosing either a 8 inch or 10 inch diameter auger?? I use the round Frabil tipups quite a bit and am a little worried they wont fit over or work well with a 10 inch hole....anyone have any experience with the frabils and 10 inch holes?? any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Hoffer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used my frabil's on 10in holes the last 2 years and haven't had any problems as of yet. Sometimes, they get a little frozen to the edge of the hole but it's never cost me a fish or broken equipment, therefore I don't see it as problem. They work as intended and the bigger the hole, the bigger the fish. smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would try doing a search for "what size auger" to use. I believe this topic was heavily contributed to a week or two ago.

I personally have a 10" auger, and I wish I had an 8". There is a noticeable weight difference in between a 10" and 8" auger. If you are using a 10" inside a fish house you are also more likely to bend up the auger when you inevitably hit the sides of the hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PROS 10inch

bigger hole

more room for your tranducer and rod

CONS 10inch

more water and ice under your feet

uses more gas

weighs more

Big walleye can turn around in it.

boot fits in easier

more ice to scoop out

PROS 8inch

lighter

hole doesnt freeze as fast with frabile on it

boot doesnt fit as easy in it

most fish that go thur a 10 will fit an 8

less gas

less water and ice under your feet

lees ice to scoop out

drill holes faster less effort

Blades are cheaper

CONS 8inch

not as much room with tranducer in it

I just switched from a 10 to an 8 last year, I realy like the 8inch auger but when I had my permanant on Mille Lacs the 10 was great.I'm sure that an 8 would of been all I needed though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would say go with the 8 inch i have had both and currently have a 10 i do like the bigger hole but the weight alone makes it a lot less tempting to move as often and if you have children it makes you a little nervous knowing the could fit rate down the hole just my 2 cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It also depends on the auger you are looking at. For instance the Strikemaster Strike Lite is only an 8" But I currently have a 10" Am going to get an 8" this year as I used a buddies Strike Lite last year and it is the way to go by far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got two in one, started out with the 10" SM Lazer Mag Express, but wanted a smaller drill for panfish. Called StrikeMaster up and originally asked about the 7" lower unit. There was good snow that year, so stocks were sold out, and compromised and got the 8" instead.

What the 8" gives me is good alround drill for inland lakes, specially if good sized Northerns arent prevelant. What the 10" does for me is when I hit Erie, Michigan, Superior or Saginaw Bay is gives me confidence that I wont have to struggle to get a good laker, salmon, pike or walleye through the hole. I have caught Jiggers and Raps on the edge of the 8" hole lots of times, and with the 10" I can get the head of the fish through a lot easier. Less knock-offs right at the hole.

No matter what sized hole, you should kick your flasher out of the hole as early as possible. Fish will find a way to get themselves and line wrapped around the transducer one way or another.

If you go with the 4-stroke, remember you have to have the power head a certain way when laying it on the ice, or the oil will leak out in the case. Played with it last year and constantly forgot about it and had to go back to the auger and put it right side up. I like the extra weight you get with the Tecumseh engine and all metal auger. Think it helps center the drill point a bit, weight difference is a few lbs and for piece of mind when dealing the composite shaft of the Strike-Lite.

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 9" Jiffy Stealth is a great unit. Lots of power, cuts old holes just about as well as new, the 9" is not too big for round tip-ups to wobble into.

For most situations a 8" is plenty. A 2 hp Jiffy Stealth is a sweet cutting low maintance unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice..i think the decision is going to be either the Strikemaster lazermag 9 inch or the Jiffy Stealth 9 inch...should have it in the garage by tomorrow afternoon..now if we can just get some ice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one thing I have notice over the years between our 10" and out 8" is My size 13 boot doesn't fit inside a 8" as easily as a 10". A 10" hole will swallow your leg all the way to your jimmies if your not carefull. I have only caught a few fish were I wish I had brought the 10 instead of the 8. Usually most fish will fit in a 8 when you are after eye's and pike and panfish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.