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Drop Axle fish house trailer


Deep_Sinker

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Sportsman fish houses, Ed will gladly help you out they build one hell of a frame,They have a link on the ice fishing forum

Here is there phone # 320-360-0081

I bought my house/frame from them and I'm very happy with it! There prices are very good also.

You really can't go wrong with them, he is an active member of this forum and stands behind there work.

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What size are you looking for and what is your price range? I had one built for me to my specs, but it cost more to get more if you know what I mean. Mine is hydraulic lift with torsion axles that extend all the way across the frame. In other words, tire to tire, which allows the axles to be aligned in the future if they were ever to get out of alignment and more ridgid in terms of durability too. Lot harder to do on others with the short spring and other short torsion axle frames. Some people say that the angle iron frames are weaker too, I would generally tend to agree, but not necessarily. There are many factors to consider. Here's some pics from my trailer I had built. There are many good and bad ones to choose from. Your more than welcome to come look at mine here in the Duluth area as I am about 80% finished building it to discuss some ideas and look.

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The hoses are rated at 1500 psi. I am guessing there is alot less than that since its a simple hand pump. I have an electric pump here that I might put on later. There is a mechanical lock once its up in travel mode to prevent a hwy disaster. IF it blew while jacking it up, you could simply use your car jack. Jack it up and then set the mechanical lock. No hydraulic pressure is used on the way down. I also had them build the hoses so they are all protected inside tubing through the frame so they will never be in contact with things that could allow them to wear or get caught on something. This is the only other picture I have on my computer that gives you a look at the axles from a short distance.

The best part is that you can sit over the wheels inside, which allows for more interior options.

I have said this at least 50 times to people attempting to build there own. Decide your floor plan first, then try to find/build a frame around that. People build houses all the time then try to cut the holes in the floor near the end of the project only to find out that some wont fit/work in that area and are forced to use less holes or move them to undesireable positions. I hope to be at a few of the get togethers this winter for some show and tell! I'll try to let people know in advance since there has been alot of interest. Hope this helps.

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I have a 6000# Tundra from Fish House supply (they are also a sponsor of Fishing Minnesota). I have had it for 2 seasons now and love it! It has close to 15,000 miles on it because we also use it for Elk Hunting. With the 4-wheeler inside it and gear the rig weighs in around 4500lbs. Not many trailers out there can hold up to that much abuse. It also pulls strait as an arrow @ 75 MPH. There not the cheapest frame out there, but worth every dollar! They also have 10% off all parts if you buy a frame from them. It all adds up in the end! Good Luck!

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Fishinalot,

I also bought the 6000# from the same place. I also love it. I do although have one question? It is my understanding any traler weight over 3500# must have trailer brakes? Did you add them to yours? I like know that my axles will never break but, haven't went over 3500# to not break any laws? Am I just being to cautious? I wish these tundra frame would have came with them as we did pay a little extra for them?

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I can post lots of pics if you'd like. I must say though that all the stuff this one has is probably going to be beyond most people's budget and imagination. Also the time, effort, and type of construction is not the normal everyday stuff you'd see on another house. I dont mean to affend anyone or sound rude, but I am sticking alot of money in this one and I feel its top of the line construction with lots of time spent on the importatnt details to make it last forever. This is my second house building project. Here's a couple more pics for today as requested. If you want more ask and I'll post them. Thanks- Joel

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That is a heck of a trailer End of the Line!!! You definetly look like a pro and a good planner. Since it is your second house, I'm assuming your taking good ideas and making them better. I am looking a basic trailer and I guess I better consider a floor plan now. I would like to spend a max of $1500 for 6.5 x 14. Any suggestions? I will call the above guys to see what they have.

Thanks!

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Forget about the budget, if the fish house has what you want and 'need', thats all thats important. I'm in need of a tandem axle like this and can't find anyone who builds one that would suit my needs. Looks like End of the Line really knows what he is doing when it comes to designing his house. Good job with that!

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Neither one of those companies built mine and are not like this one. And you cant just buy the axles either Walleye Slayer (replied to your email). I believe if you look at the Shack Rack you will find there frame system alot higher off the ground (mine is only 4") and much heavier. I am going with steel because I did it before and it has lots of advantages and only a few disadvantages. In some cases if built right a steel house is lighter than a wood one. There are many factors that go into building one for weight. For instance, if you don't need to support all the weight of the house by just the trailer frame you can lighten the framing. To replace its strength you can build the walls from light gauge tubing as I did and use the walls to help support the frame as well, like a truss or bridge construction. In turn this allows more room for hole placement in the floor for your convienence which is what I did. My last house was 8x22 all steel and with two full 100# propane tanks and all the extra stuff like pots, pans, fishing gear, auger etc.. Weighed in at 3230#, my friend had one the same size out of wood with a single axle from a trailer house and was over 400# heavier. This one will be around 2700# is my guess.

The frame is 8'x16' with a 3' V-nose so 19' to the point, but the house will be 8'4" wide when done. As you can see by the picture I welded the studs on the side of the frame. This allows regular 8' wide products on the inside so your not adding cost for longer pieces and keeps the house wider for more interior room. As well as strength to the whole design.

Deep Sinker, thanks for the compliment. You are right I am a planner, when I built my last one I had everything weighed out to the last pound on paper. When I built it, we added here and there, I was able to keep my design to within 20 lbs. of my calculations when completed because the axles where rated for 3500# I had to make sure I had enough room to spare. I am building a better mouse trap as they say. My suggestion to you is check out the frame built in Georgia that they sell at Northern Tool right in Duluth, Very nice for the price and within you budget and size I believe. If anyone wants these guy's number that built mine and cost just call me, I have a running side bet with the guys that built mine that as soon as everyone sees mine they'll want one too as well as a few of the other manufacturers! wink.gif Be glad to talk! grin.gif 218-879-6237 Hope this helps.

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Biggerfish

My fish house weighs 4500# only after I load all the gear and 4-wheeler in it. My fish house does not weigh over 3000 lbs and your probably does not either. Therfore you do not need brakes and are perfectly legal on the road!! I bought the "Tundra" from Fish House Supply only because it is a trailer that is built strong enough to hold 5200 lb. I have put many miles on that frame and you will to.

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LODFFB,

What I am talking about is that my height over the tire is low enough to sit on top of the wheels since there is no spring or lever above the tires itself. I only replied to an email to call me to Walleye Slayer and he did. He has done alot of research like I did.

THIS WHEEL WELL WILL BE COVERED UP BY PUTTING CUSTOM CABINETS OVER IT FOR THE KITCHENETTE.

icehouse012ll1.jpg

THIS ONE WILL HAVE A COUCH THAT PULLS OUT TO A DOUBLE BED AT NIGHT.

icehouse016bi0.jpg

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    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
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    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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