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Wood permanent stands


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I have built a number of stands in the past and now we are building some new ones. It takes me forever to decide how to do the legs to make it sturdy. In the end I am never happy.

Any pics or ideas that work the BEST?

Plus I always seem to make the sides too tall to shoot out of with a bow. It works great for rifle and muzzle, but geat a little tall for the bow. Any thoughts on that?

I want to stay warm and out of the WIND in Muzzleloading season but ...

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The sides are nice for the wind but it sure restricts you with a bow.Maybe you could build your platform and makes the sides with hinges attached so when your bow hunting you can drop them and raise for later with the rifle.The one thing you will have to watch out for is when the sides are down they need to be attached some how so the wind doesnt rattle them and spook the deer.

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Very good points guys. Thanks.

What about the legs? Most of the time I run 4 x 4s at an angle, but I'm not very happy with that. I also saw one built with 4 x 4 legs going straight down and then side 2 x 4s run in the inside at an angle.

Thoughts?

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For the one wood stand that I built that is what I did.I put the 4x4's straight up and down and then ran 2x4's across at a angle to brace it up good.I also put carpet in the inside to make the stand alot more sound proof.It has been standing for 10 years and is still in very good shape and very quiet.

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the easiest and probaly the best two person permanent stands we ever had were built on a fluke as a freinds ATV and riding mower sales back yard is always filling with packaging crates.These 4 by 4 by 6 foot long frames bolt together ,they actua;;y stack them in warehouse but we like to add about six to eight bolts and stack them as high as needed.Usually they are galvanized tin and naturally rust first year enoughto to take glow off.I have 2 on 160 acres and after years of constant repaires on my tree stands and legged stands I will be glad to replace other stands with more like these.And if I want to take second person with they actually fit.Best to bury bottom foot of entire frame of first one on ground to keep from tipping.Let you know in couple years if they are durable.Wrapped both mine in German camo net,the plstic kind two sides reversible with tie tabs so can switch from greento brown.You can get these 5 by 10 pieces at army surplu stores for $25.00.Total cost my stnds Two cmos and five frmes each $75.00and they are much lightr than lumber

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You might also want to check out this product called elevators from shadow hunter blinds. Just do a search on the internet for their web site - basically the name of their company plus (Contact Us Please). Anyway, they are heavy duty metal brackets that 4 x 4 legs bolt into and attach to your 2 x 6 frame. You can use two to build a ladder stand or 4 to build a platform or box blind. I have not put mine to use yet but plan to do so soon to try it out. Thinking of going with a 3 x 3 open platform and attaching a summit trophy chair I bought for turkey hunting to the tree above it.

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II built 2 4x5 feet stands with 4X4's for the legs. I did the cross beams with 2X4's but it still wasn't secure enough for me so I ended up taking a 2X4 and wedged it in to the ground and one of the cross beam 2X4's. Do atleast 2 of them and you will notice a huge difference.

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BTW --

If anyone has any more thopughts or piccs that would be great. I have no problem with building stands, but they never seem to be as sturdy as I would like them, unless you dig them out and that is no fun -- plus i like to more them a little with a couple of guys.

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I just built a ladder stand last Sunday during Sid time, it took me about 3 hours. Start with (2) 2x6x12', cut (12) 2x4x24" pieces for the rungs, attach those on the end grain of the 2x6's. Now you have a 12 foot ladder. I use one foot spacings on the rungs, when you have bulky clothes and boots on, I hate steps that are too far apart. Now cut (2) 2x6x4' pieces, these are the start of the platform, attach them to the top of the ladder on the outside at about 110 degree angle (you want greater than 90 degrees because it makes it easier to lean against a tree). Now cut (6-8) 2x4x32" boards for the platform deck, attach them leaving a 1/4 inch gap inbetween each. Cut (2) angle braces 2x4x48", attach between the platform and the ladder, this supports the platform. I've used deck screws to attach everything so far, but I like to strengthen every thing by putting 3/8 carriage bolts thru the 1) connection of the ladder and platform 2) where the angle braces are attached. I also take 3/8 inch lags and put two in each ladder rung, 10 years from now I don't want one of those rungs coming loose on a cold winter morning. It may seem like overkill, but I use treated lumber, I want the hardware to last also. I just watch for the bag sale at Menards and stock up on lag screws and carriage bolts.

This is the basic pattern. You can go heavier or lighter, I sometime use 4x4 for the ladder legs, or taller, I've went as high as 16 feet, but then they're harder to carry and put up, unless you have a tractor and loader like I do. smile.gif

One more step is to add pieces of a rubber inner tube to the last platform section so it doesn't squeek when its rubbing against a tree.

This whole stand was light enought where I climbed inside the ladder and carried it out of my shop by myself.

I don't put sides on my deerstands, I mostly bowhunt, for the close shots you get while bowhunting, sides would impede your shot. Plus I always use a safty harness, so I feel no need for sides.

Now just find a good tree, lean it up against it and tie it off. Rope works lots better than chain, chain you can't get tight enough. Then once I get it tied in, I make a seat out of one verticle 2x4 and a 2x8 seat. If you lean it against a crooked tree, make sure its on the side or upside of the lean, if its on the downside, it will eventually wreck the stand, been there done that.

Wish I had a digital camera....

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Wish I had some pics of ours. We have 4 "stilt" stands. Love them. We have the legs slanted on the newer ones. Not sure if there is an advantage over having 2x4 braces or what. They work great. There have been a couple times I was worried after a big storm has gone through the area, that the stands may have blown over. (Still have plans to anchor them in the ground, just need to do it)

Strictly for firearms hunting. I can't shoot a bow if there is anything in my way that I might hit the bow on.

ie - walls on a stand.

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I had the 2 4X4's going from the ground upto the base opposite of the tree. I had 2x4's criss crossed for support on the 4x4's. That wasn't sturdy enough so I took a 2x4 and wedged it from where the bottom 2x4 was nailed crissed cross and the other end into the ground. I hope that helps you. If not I will see if I can get some pictures of it.

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Dahit

Maybe I should re-read the posts.

Are you looking to make a lean-to wood stand(lean on a tree) or are you looking for a stand-alone wood stand?

What we have built we call "stilt stands". A stand alone that does not touch any trees.

4x4's for certain. One on each corner.

We have them in the woods too. So often I see lean-to stands that have a couple legs and then are nailed to a tree. NO GOOD! That tree is constantly swaying in the wind, and you are not going to have a safe platform due to things loosening up.

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Big Lake --

Nope, I want a stand alone stand. I have built quit a few, but never totally happy. How low do you think I will have to make the box sides so I can shoot with the bow and the rifle/shotgun?

One guy had an idea for the base -- run a long 2 x 4 (16') on two opposite side of the stand and then run a support beam from the end of the long support on the ground at an angle up to the far post. That sounds like a goog idea.

Thoughts?

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Here is how I have built mine. I bought four 16' 4 X 4's. 2 X 4's for cross members one at the top 4' and one at the bottom 10'. Then put X's from top to bottom kitty corner. On the top I have a 4' X 4' platform. I built three foot high walls and rapped total inside with old carpet. I built the stand at home in the back yard and bolted everything together. Once complete dismanteled and hauled to the location I picked out. This stand has been out for five years now and has been awesome. I got really tired of having to go out and work on stands that have roughted away. Granted I know the material was a little more then what I wanted to spend but I thought about every year I'm out replacing the ol'dump from a quick slap up stand I will save $ in the long run. I also bought a climber for the days I want to try something different. Just my two cents worth. Is it hunting season yet?????

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The one I have built is 6x4 is size with 4-4x4 legs with 2 2x4 crossmembers on each side and the 4x4's are sunk in the dirt 2 feet.It was built with gree treated plywood and the floor is 3/4 thick.This stand does not make any noise and has been standing for 10 years.I dont think it would go down in a 40mph wind.The only downside is the price to build it.I knew that I would be rifle hunting out of it for many years so I wanted a PERMANENT stand.

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DAHITMAN- THE BOTTOM HAS 10' 2X4'S AND THE TOP HAS 4' 2X4'S. TOP WOULD BE 16SQFT AND BOTTOM WOULD BE 100SQFT. YOUR FEET ARE AT ABOUT 15 1/2 FEET UP IN THE AIR. WITH THE X BRACING IT IS VERY STABLE. I HAVE A WOOD LADDER THAT I USE TO GET IN AND OUT OF. THIS WORKS AWESOME FOR FIELD, POWERLINES AND IN THE WOODS.

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Here is what I did. Kept my eye open for a deal on a few sections of bricklayers type scaffold & 4 adjustable scaffold feet. I put 4 solid patio blocks on the ground & erected the scaffold tower on top of them using the adjustable feet to level it up. This took 2 of us all of 15 minutes. Prior to this I constructed a wood platform, corner posts, roof structure, short sides, door & stair in my driveway in components ready to assemble. Hauled the components back in a 4 wheeler trailer & put it together in half a day. To stabilize the tower I drove a few steel posts into the ground & bolted them to the tower. I also used a couple of $15.00 cable come alongs running from the top at angles wrapped around some scrub tree bases for added stability. With the adjustable feet and come alongs I can make adjustments as needed to keep everything plumb, level, and stable. The deck on this is 5' X 6' which is great. Don't get me wrong, it was plenty of work but this stand should last a long time. Just another idea to relay.

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