Food plot help

[Powerstroke]

A buddy and I are interested in trying our first food plot this year. FOr starters we have a power line clearing thats roughly 40ft wide and can go as far as we want. WQe're also thinking of clearing some pockets in the woods.

We've got ATV's for doing the work, but none of the implements to get this accomplished. It seems like quite an investment for something we may not be super involved in just yet. I remember last year people were borrowing and/or renting some of the tools to get plots going.

Any thoughts on this? We are bowhunters so were looking for doing a plot that covers most of the growing season and maybe adding some fall attractant to it. Currently the deer density on our property is poor, mostly travel corridors with some bedding areas. In the general area though, the deer density is great. There are 6-10 deer taken per year by the neighbors, some bucks and does, but they don't do QDM.

SO I gues were looking to create a draw to our area that will compete with the natural available foods. We will also need help getting equipment for use in the Aitkin/Farm Island Lake area.

[Mark Christianson]

The West Metro MDHA has a Plotmaster that we rent out.

Shoot me an email and I can get you some info on getting it for a weekend if you need.

[email protected]

Its hard to say what you will need to get the job done without seeing the area or understanding more about what you have to deal with.

If there is sod to cut up, you are going to have your hands full unless you can get some heavier equipment in there.

If its been rooted up in the past, or if it doesnt have a heavy sod layer, then you are in business.

What about brush in that power line or for that matter in the woods where you want plots?

Better get the brush out by hand before tackling it with ATV's.

Good old blood, sweat and tears(of joy) is what its going to take to get things rolling. Once you get the initial battle done, the following years will be much easier.

PS - Did you want food plot seed? I know you asked about it. And now that I think of it, maybe I already have you down on my order sheet at work.

[Redwalleye]

One thing that I found out the hard way was that if there are a lot of deer in the area and you have the best food, they remember feeling good after they eat. Make sure that you have enough of a plot to ensure that they dont mow the whole thing down. On our 120 we have about 7 acres of small plots spread out, some of which were devistated when we were trying to get them established.

Biglakebass is right about the sod. The first time I worked ours up was the first in 10 years and found that even with a 2030 JD and plowing, disking and dragging I still think the seed bed could have been better.

I've never used a plotmaster but I imagine that if you had the right soil it would work great. If your really ambitious and dont intend to plant a whole lot you might be able to get by with just a gardern tiller too.( Sweat & Blood.) Also see what your soil is like too before planting ( PH and maybe some fertillizer). I usually use 10-10-10 if I can, gives it good boost.

Seed- RED CLOVER or rape seed. good stuff, have used some bio logic stuff and wildlife blends, problem is our deer eat clover all the time and the other stuff offers something new to a 'browser' and it is demolished before its any good to the plot. Ive read a few articles about utilization cages which are just some chicken wire over a small spot to see exactly how much the plots are being used.

That's too bad about your neighbors, I hear ya, I'm in the same boat. Our Neighbors= BROWN its down. So I go bowhunting before rifle season, and rifle later in the season. I feel bad when I pass some does and fawns that are heading the direction of our neighbors, only to hear a couple of shots a short while later.

Good luck with your plots! Good to hear some more people improving their herd!

[BLACKJACK]

On a new spot, you need to get it blackened by some combo of roundup and tillage and more tillage, I'd recommend starting in spring, get it black, let it sit for a few weeks and let the weeds sprout, till it again, etc until August, then plant a clover or brassica, by repeated tillage and killing the resprouted weeds, you'll have a better seed bed. Don't neglect putting down some fertilizer, it will help what you are planting out compete the weeds.

Do a search on this site for lots more info. then come back with more questions. Be careful, these food plots are addicting!!

[luckey]

Blackjack is right about the addicting part so be careful. If you don't want to jump in with heavy equipment and tilling, you can be very successful with spraying Roundup on the existing vegetation. I agree there is nothing like seeing a nice tilled field with plants growing, but farmers have the equipment and time to do this. We have successfully established plots by following these steps.

1. Spray the area around Memorial Day. Most plants will be well established by then.

2. Wait two weeks and respray any area not completely brown.

3. Use a no till drill or seed spreader to plant about a week later or just before rain is forecast.

Note: This process has a couple distinct advantages over tilling.

A. Much less work and less equipment involved.

B. The dying vegetation provides excellent cover for young plants.

C. Weed seeds less likely to germinate when you do not work them into the soil.

Good Luck.

[Hotspotter]

Luckey:

What kinds of plants/mixes are you using that will come up without tilling? I'd be very interested in this approach.

Joel

[Powerstroke]

Thanks to everyone that has replied. I did several hours of reading on here last night and one person cannot digest all the info it has to offer. Just for clarity (not to toot my own horn) I work in landscape maintenance so I have experience with turf and plant maintenance. I also do a lot of tree trimming so tahts how I plan on making clearings in the woods.

To be continued.....I'm a firefighter..gotta call

So...to be more specific

Our area currently is brush free and is only exotic tall grasses

[ChuckN]

Not only addressed to Powerstroke...

I tackled my first food plot with help from friends (and many thanks to them, and BLB for his time, equipment, seed, etc...) and it was a work out.

With the use of a friend's Farmall tractor we plowed up the grasses, raked it and disced it.

I should have sprayed the area first, but live and learn. I think it took a lot more work than necessary if I would have killed the sod first. Because we had to re-do it over the summer when the grasses returned.

If your grasses look like this in my pic, a tractor is mandatory. In wooded areas, not really so. That sod was stopping the tractor at times.

It is a lot of fun and I wish I had more land to continue plots on. Can't wait to see the plot grow in the spring!!

[Powerstroke]

SO to pick up from earlier....

My point earlier was that I know all the details as far as site prep and maintenance goes, but I've never done seed bed planting like this before.

I hope to learn more about seed varieties for the future, but I'll probably use one of the MDHA varieties for now and try to find something as a fall attractant.

I know what you guys mean about the "brown its down neighbors". There is one guy walks up and down the road ditch across from us and he carries a .44 pistol with a scope. It would be fine if he actually used it but he looks like a hyped up security guard. I don't htink he's ever shot anything, but it doesn't help that he blocks routes of the deer by walking the ditch.

I'll email those who offered help as soon as I get more details about our plan.

[Mark Christianson]

The MDHA Annual Blend is a super fall attractant.

Although if you dont have enough planted, its gonna get cleaned out quick. I lived the experience on that.

Something else to look at for a fall/early winter attractant; try some winter rye or even Buck Forage Oats. The Buck Forage Oats are pretty spendy though.

You can get a 50 lb sack of winter rye for about 10 bucks. That will give you an acre of coverage. The buck forage oats are about $40 for 50 lbs.

I plan on trying some regular oats this fall and see how they perform.

The winter rye/buck forage plot that I planted on Labor Day weekend last year was incredible. I went to the farm over Xmas weekend 2005 to check things, and the deer had been diggin through 10-12 inches of snow to get at the plot.

[camdu7]

Powerstroke,

My property is about 50 miles due east and we have had great luck with the rape and turnip mixes and rye planted the third weekend in August. Rye is cheep $6/50lbs. It will stay green under the snow and be green in spring. Clover is a great all season food but you can do better for a hunting plot. If you have thick sod (like I do) you'll need a tractor. But you'll be suprised what you can do with a wheeler and a small spring tooth or a diamond tooth harrow. Round up,lime and fetilizer. It is addicting and almost as fun as hunting.....almost.

[luckey]

jnelson,

Sorry for late reply, I was poisoned at a local restaurant.

I see a number of people (camdu7, biglakeba$$ and chuckN) responded and I don't have too much to add. We have had success planting as I described with both annuals, and perennials. Like a lot of things there are a number of ways to get the job done. A lot depends on the size, location, what’s being planted, accessibility, availability of heavy equipment, etc.

Last year was the third year since I planted a large plot using the method previously described. I planted Imperial Whitetail Clover blend from Imperial Whitetail Institute. Although it is getting invaded by other plants, it still looked good last year and I don’t intend to replant this year. Maybe next year, but that would give me 5 years with one planting.

The last two years we bought annuals and clovers from biglakeba$$ and successfully establish clover growth on trails and several clearings in the woods. Note: The trails had been scraped with a skidder just prior to the frost going out so there was a fair amount of bare soil. The seed were spread by hand and left for nature’s rain to plant and grow them.