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lars0926

Question

I read on here several weeks ago about using an insulation product consisting of foil backed bubble pockets, which is readily available from several stores, including Menards. I purchased the product for $16 and decided to put it to the test in my Otter Cabin.

After purchasing this insulation I cut it in two form fitting pieces and installed it in the roof (between the poles and the fabric). I cut slits in it to slide the velcro pole strappes through it. Although I saw various installation concepts listed on FM, I personally found that the slits for the velcro straps held the insulation in place without any special wiring or tape needed. After completing the install the portable still flipped over (collapsed) with the insulation being nearly undetectable.

To ensure a consistent test, I performed my study at night with a temp ranging between -2 and -4 degrees. I ran a buddy heater on a 1 lb. tank on its highest setting for 1 hour. The inside of the portable maintained a mean temperature of 34 degrees at the end of the hour.

I then pulled out the insulation and waited for an hour, repeating the procedure without any insulation. The mean temp. was significantly lower at 16 degrees.

It appears that heat does rise and that this insulation is effective in trapping and reflecting the heat. Definately worth the investment, but did take about 45 mintues to install.

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It works great doesn't it? I did the same thing with my Otter Lodge about a month ago. It hardly adds any weight, and doesn't cost as much as the canvas craft insulated skin. Did you find it was easier to run the insulation crossways (left wall to right wall) or the long way (door to back wall)? I put mine in crossways but the way that stuff unrolls I had to put a crease in it to get it to fold with the fabric when I collapse the house. I purchased the 4 x 25 foot roll and had about 10 feet left over when I was finished. I have one seam at the ridge and one in the back that I joined together with aluminum foil tape. I completely agree with you about not needing extra wires to hold it up. Just draping it over the supports and running the velcro straps through it holds it quite well. I ran the insulation down the back to the top of the sled, and it keeps that area of the house (and your kidneys) much warmer. Here's another benefit, it's A LOT brighter in there. I'm gonna have to wear sunglasses at 10 pm! I'll try and get some pics posted here as soon as I can.

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Very happy with the Reflectex product from Menards.I bought the 4x25 rool and installed up the back and across the roof.I didnt tape the seem but Iam going to.The house seems to heat much better,but I didnt check the temp.I think if you put a little fan on the cieling pole you would really increase the heat.The material gets warm instead of the heat just going through the roof material.Also makes house brighter than before.I installed it in a Fish Trap Voyager and had some left that I could do half the sides.It seems to fold up very nice with the house material.A++++

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i did this as welll the insulation goes from the top of the tub all the way over and down to the floor on the left side of my otter. and to the top of the door on the right side top and the piece i cut out for the door i put into the bottom of the sled was out on a cold day already this year and in a tshirt with a sweatshirt. was plenty warm. and the foil worked great with the new lighting system i also installed. i have three of the flasher auxillary light strips one over head and two mounted on 1x2s with broom handle clips on them to clip to the frame at the hole only useing one of the transformers and all run off a small flasher battery and it had not dimmed yet.

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Wish2Fish

I ran the material between the poles and the wall and then made a small slip to fit the tabs to tie the poles tight through ther slits and reattached the velcro around the poles. Then run a strip of foil tape along your one seem. I also used tie straps about every 8-10 inches along the edge of the tub in the back to secure a little more. Works GREAT

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I've been out several times and haven't noticed any condensation. It folds up nice, brightens up my shack, and holds the heat in well. I agree, you really don't need any reinforcement tape for the slits etc. The explanation that Lars...and harvey lee gave for installation is exactly the way I did it. It's pretty easy to work with even with several adult beverages in the system.

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I had just assembled my new Ranger Solo in my living room, when I read lars initial posting. So I visited Menards and picked up a 4' wide x 25' long roll of the specified bubble insulation for $31.96 plus tax...

The 4' wide insulation fits the 4'wide Ranger Solo roof perfectly, and no cutting to width was required. My measurements indicated that I needed a length of exactly 120". So I unrolled a 10' long section of the insulation from the roll and used a scissors to cut it off squarely, by simply following one of the creases across the 4' width...

Starting from the back(sled) end of the roof, I undid the three Velcro tapes, relaxed the tension of the first tube frame and slid the insulation between the roof and the tube. I slid the 4' edge of the insulation down the back wall of the tenting to the top of the sled, then I slid the insulation another 2" beyond the edge of the sled, until the insulation was firmly against the hooks that hold the tenting to the bottom side of the sled's top rim. I measured exactly where the insulation contacted the Velcro tapes on the tenting that hold the back wall's tube support, then used a boxcutter to cut through the insulation. Before making each cut, I inserted a piece of scrap 1/4" plywood between the Velcro tapes and tenting and the insulation, so the blade could not cut the fabric of my new portable (horrors!)... Then I pulled the Velcro tape through the cut in the insulation, and reattached it to the tube. The Velcro tape was more than long enough to do this without any problems, and insulation was clamped securely between the tenting and the tube.

I did the same thing with the next two support tubes... carefully measuring, and carefully cutting the slits. The front 4' edge of the insulation ended 1" above the front door. This sheet of insulation on the roof actually improves the tautness and rigidity of the roof tenting.

I carefully cut out a square of insulation on the back wall, so that the window was visible, and used aluminum tape to seal the edges of that window cut.

It took me less than an hour, and it really looks very nice inside... The insertion of the insulation between the edge of the sled and the bottom of the back wall tenting actually improves the weathertight seal along this critical opening... And the creases in the insulation are correctly aligned, so there are no problems collapsing the tenting when you're done for the day...

And if you have a friend with a similar portable, you can give him/her the 15 feet of insulation material you haven't used, and provide technical assistance...

Good luck.

kooch

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Say, I would like to try this on a small flip up house that I own but I only need about 8 feet of the material and would hate to plop down 33 bucks for a whole roll. It appears that others are using about 16 feet on their portables. If anyone in my area wants to install this on their portable and share costs, please reply back to this thread.

Pete

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i spent 15 bucks on a roll that was 24" wide and taped the two sections together with aluminum tape but clear packing tape would work too. and i barely had enuff left over to cover the floor of my sled.

man is it quieter now when the rod drops onto it

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