Speedometer stopped working

[JScott]

I have a 1994 Jag 440 with 4000 on the odometer. This weekend the speedometer stopped working part way through our ride and never started up again. I have periodically greased it in the fall. I've been told this could be a symptom of a bearing issue with that model. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this problem and where to start to resolve/diagnose it.

[leech~~]

Pull the cable out and see if both ends are still on it.

[MN Mike]

Could be the bearing or the gear drive might have seized up, that was somewhat common too.

Probably the easiest way is to pull the cover off where you've been greasing the spedo gear, there are 3 nuts there that should come off pretty easy, you might have to reach up in the tunnel and hold the bolts in against the tunnel, they are a simple carriage head bolt. I would pull the secondary clutch off just to make this easy.

If the bearing is gone, you should see it. When that gear drive is off, check it and make sure it's moving freely, there should be a small square ' key ' coming from the track drive shaft, that's usually what fails if the bearing goes or the gear drive locks up.

If the bearing is gone, you're looking at about a 3 - 4 hour job to put it in, if your mechanically inclined, much less. Those are just a standard 1" flange bearing you can get at your local hardware / implement store, very common bearing.

Mike

[Walleyehooker]

Usually means your bearings are getting bad. The shaft starts to wobble and ruins the end of the speedo cable. Take the cable off and see if the end is worn. Also can look underneath and if the bearings are real bad the shaft will be off center. Most people don't grease these bearings as the zerk fitting isn't real visable or they don't know its even there.

[Whoaru99]

Speedo stopped working at ~2500 miles on my Polaris. It was the track drive bearings.

Don't drive it more until fixed; likely just working up a bigger repair bill.

[Snowking]

I would check the cable first. Mine quit working 22 miles into the ride this weekend. At the next smoke stop pulled the cable out of the sleeve and it was broke. Rode to the dealer to get one , but they didn't have one

[JScott]

Thanks guys. I'm going to have look at it tonight after the garage warms up a bit. I appreciate the input.

[JScott]

Yes- the bearing is shot. Got the speedo housing off and found the shredded remains of the bearings. Was also pretty obvious from looking underneath as I could see the shaft sitting off center. One big concern is that it was ridden about 25 miles after the speedometer quit since I didn't know at that time about the bearing possibility. We were way out on the Taconite Trail and very lucky not to have broken down that late in the day on Saturday.

I'm game to try repairs myself but wonder about residual damage that I might not be able to determine. It seems unbelievable that the sled made it that far as bad as it looks on the one side. Might there be damage on the other side and would it be obvious? Or any suggestions what else to look for. Again- it's a 20 year old sled so I'll have to way the costs carefully.

[fishingstar]

This is a cheap fix if you can do it your self.

15.00 for the bearing, 8 oz. of ATF and 5.00 speedo adapter key

you can get some tips from you tube.

Dan

[MN Mike]

If you drive chain wasn't hopping or making noise, I think you'll be ok.

I've seen some people ride their sleds some distance on a bearing that has gone out without any residual damage. The bearing race and the outer bearing housing are pretty hard material.

Probably the biggest worry is if the race on the track drive shaft spun, then you'll have to either have someone build it up and turn it down or just buy a track drive shaft from a parts yard ( which would be easiest ).

I would probably replace the bearing on the chain side too since you'll be in it but that bearing should probably come from Cat, if I remember right, there are 2 O rings in there to seal off the oil, around the outside of the flange and on the shaft of the track drive, I think there's a grove on the inside on the bearing race for the O ring.

Do you have reverse? if so, just pay attention to how it comes apart, you'll be fine.

Mike

[JScott]

Good points, and thanks again for the suggestions. Hopefully I'll be able to get a little further in to it later this week.

Jeff

[Old School]

Seismic Thunder, PM sent. Hope it helps.

Oldschool

[JScott]

Thanks Old School. Yes, that will help a lot. I don't see the Jag on there for 94, but thinking a lot of transferable info from the Couger manual . I'll be putting it to use Saturday if plans hold up.

[JScott]

I'm having a heck of time getting the nut off the top(chain) sprocket on my 94 cat. Taking it apart in the process of getting to the drive bearing.

before I get a bigger wrench - is it a conventional thread left is loose?

Thanks, Jeff

[MN Mike]

Should be.... lock the brake and use a impact if you have one.

Mike

[JScott]

ok - I got it off. I was able to get it with the 1/2" wrench without having to drag out the compressor. Thanks Mike!

Jeff

[MN Mike]

One tip on handling the skid frame for your suspension.

Once you have loosened the track, loosen ( but don't remove ) the 4 bolts that bolt the suspension to the tunnel. Tip the sled on it's side and pull the 2 rear bolts out completely, swing the suspension out a ways and then take the other 2 out, you might want to prop up the rear boggies with a block just to hold the track and suspension up so it doesn't bind.

Once you are done getting the bearings in and everything tightened back down on the track drive, reverse the process above, it's a much easier way to work with the suspension and track, just my

Mike

[JScott]

Thanks again for all the good suggestions on how to handle the track drive shaft bearing repair. Got it done today and seems to be working fine. Did both sides. 4600 miles on the first bearings so I'm hoping for a good run with the new ones.

Jeff