Help! 1892 Evinrude

[MJBaldwin]

Alright I bought this boat with a 35 HP evinrude tiller on the back. I wa sour with the wife yesterday and noticed every once and awhile it wasn't spitting water. Then completely stopped at the end of the day (rushed off lake and notices the tube came off the barb) so was happy that's all it was. Well with te hot weather we wanted to get out on the water today except was short lived since again was barley spitting water so I took the good off and hose off and after a little bit it started spitting water good again... It was almost blowing hot air out the barb along the spot where it's suppose to spit... Is this the water pump? This is my first boat/motor so I'm just a little concerned and my brother inlaw told me to keep track and make sure that's always spitting.

On a side note is there anything I'm suppose to lube up or anything like that on a regular basis? I know gear lube gets changed every spring fall but anything else? Your expertise

Would really be appreciated right now...

[Ufatz]

Well, first of all congratulations on having the oldest operating outboard motor I've heard of; not often you get a report of an 1892 Evinrude.

If you are not getting a steady flow of water through the "pee hole" on the motor do NOT run it until you can get it to an outboard shop. Since you state you are new at the outboard world do yourself a favor and take it in to a shop and get some time to talke with people there about your motor. It will cost you a few bucks now but you will save a lot of money in the long run by knowing how they function.

Or, you can keep dinking around with it and ruin it really really well!

[kerryd15]

Sounds like you may need a new impeller on the water pump. You could try blowing air backward in the pee hole with an air hose. I have had bugs make cocoons in there and also had a small rock partially cover the hole once. 1892? Its had a good life!!

[MJBaldwin]

I apologize fellas 1982!!! Not 1892! My bad

[delcecchi]

replacing the impeller isn't too hard, if you are mechanically inclined. Otherwise it isn't too expensive to have done.

[MJBaldwin]

Thanks for all your advice guys. I went and got an impeller today and plan to try and tackle the job tonight. When I was there (marine store) the guy said something about blowing the motor up? I’m not sure if he was just trying to scare me and want me to bring it into him and try and make money or what just seemed odd.

It spit water when I was going faster and sometimes even slower depending on the throttle position. I hope I didn’t ruin anything the wife and I would not be too happy if something went wrong. I know it’s an older motor but all I can afford right now...

Wish me luck on the impeller... If not that any other thoughts? I have blew through the hose where it goes to the spit hole and then started it up for a second and still no water. I figure water pump impellers need to be changed out anyways I just hope that’s it!

[SkunkedAgain]

The marine shop guy wasn't trying to scare you. All engines generate heat when they run. To keep the metals from getting too hot and melting, they all need to be cooled in some fashion. Your car/truck has a radiator that circulates specialized water (coolant) that is kept cool by air flowing through your radiator. Your boat sits in water so it's a perfect way to keep the motor from melting. In the lower unit, the rubber impeller/pump spins around pushing water up through the engine and then out the pee hole. As the rubber impellers/pumps get older, they either don't efficiently pump water and or stop turning. Not pumping water through your motor will of course melt the cylinders.

So everyone here is concerned because intermittent water coming out of the motor's pee hole means that it is intermittently overheating. The most likely cause is the impeller. Make sure that when/if you test the motor out of the lake that you either have muffs on the lower unit or run it in a barrel full of water.

[MJBaldwin]

Skunked,

Thanks for the advice I plan to tackle the impeller tonight and yes I know it has to be ran in water.

Is the barrel of water or muffs a better option? I had the muffs on last night after I cleaned that hose out and it just doesnt seem like its good enough water flow? But I could be wrong clearly if they sell as many of those as they do they work just didnt seem like it I guess..

What do you do/prefer?

[Eric Wettschreck]

You will never get the same amount of water from a set of muffs that you get if the lower unit is totally submirsed in water.

Having said that, if you have a good impeller the muffs will work just fine for some driveway troubleshooting.

[efgh]

The muffs will not reveal a bad impeller. A barrel will reveal a bad impeller right away to a person.

[SkunkedAgain]

As others said, the barrel or lake test is the best way to go. Muffs need to be on correctly to work, and even at that, I wouldn't take the throttle past idling speed. Muffs are quicker and easier than filling up a barrel, which is why most people use them. I use them on my 90hp motor because they fit well and I don't have a garbage can big enough for my lower unit. On all of my smaller motors, I fill up the barrel.

How did the impeller change go?

[MJBaldwin]

Skunked,

I got wrapped up in work and didn’t get home until late. I picked the part up and some grease so I can get it done today hopefully! Helping a coworker after work here for a few hours with sheetrock then off to the homestead to work on the project..

I watched a numerous amount of videos on this topic in order to get a good grasp on what I’m doing and I think I got it. My thing is most of the videos say put a very thin layer of grease where that impeller goes in order so it’s not rubbing right against that metal on the initial startup do you guys do this?

[boatfixer]

I put a film of grease in there. Helps to get the housing down onto the impeller when reassembling more than anything.

[MJBaldwin]

Well guys first attempt was a fail. Didn't have too much time before it got dark and couldn't get the lower unit off! I did see one video where the disconnected a link that puts it in F N or R. Now my problem is I cannot get that little bugger on for the life of me!! Any ideas? I did read that the drive shaft part that I have to disconnect is behind the water intake screen... Will have to wait until I have more light but if you guys know how to get that link on that would be awesome. Ill try and snap a pic before work tomorrow.

[20lbSloughShark]

To take off a lower unit, first unscrew the cover over the shifting linkage. Its usually oval, and on the right side of the motor about half way up the shaft. Then take a socket and unbolt the top bolt (sometimes there are 2 top bolts). Then on the lower unit there are 5 bolts holding it on I believe. Remove the 4 that are facing downward, and then the one facing up (its like 6" long). Then you can simply pull the lower unit off. If your having trouble, tilt the motor up some, and give a quick, hard pull.

To change the water pump, there is a black round housing on top of the lower unit, around the driveshaft. There are 3 screws holding it on. Simply unscrew them, and pull it up off the shaft. ***warning: do not loose the little pin thing that is on the driveshaft***. It is the only thing that makes the water impeller spin. To put the new impeller on can be tricky. I found it best to put the new on in the housing first (making sure its fins are turned the right way, and then slip the whole thing over the driveshaft. Once on, screw the housing down.

To get the lower unit back on move the linkage to the lower unit (the rod). Push down all the way for reverse, middle for neutral, and up for forward. I recommend neutral, then put the shifting lever in neutral too.

It can take a few tries to get the lower unit back on. I have found it just pops in, when everything is finally aligned. You have to make sure the water tube (the copper tube) goes into the rubber grommet, and the driveshaft goes to the powerhead; the linkage usually goes together easy. If you having troubles, have someone pull the cord on the motor slowly to try and align the groves on the driveshaft and powerhead. Once you got it on all the way, put one bolt in to hold it up. You only want one if you drop the bolt for the shifting linkage down there.

Then for the shifting linkage, find a socket that fits the bolt, and a reasonably long extension. Fill the socket with bearing grease or other thick grease. This holds the bolt in the socket. Then carefully screw the bolt into the bracket that connects the shift lever, to the lower unit shifting rod. Finally put the cover back over where you connected the shifting linkage, and bolt on the lower unit.

[MJBaldwin]

Here is that link I'm talking about that I cannot get back in I think I'm going to pick up a long needle nose pliers and that might give me a little more control I have to pull up on that sprig just left of it in order to even get it close..

[20lbSloughShark]

Its hard to see in the picture, but it looks like the left side of the motor. What is it for? Maybe just unscrewing those wires will give you a good enough angle.

[MJBaldwin]

20LB,

Thanks for the reply. So I have done a little more searching now and now I am wondering if I have to unhook this cable from the power head as well? I read last night on an old forum that I need to undo the 4 bolts on the lower part of the lower unit along with the one near the transom. After this open the screens at the bottom of the lower unit and there will be a bolt to undo which goes to the shifter shaft?

My question to you is do I need anything unhooked in the power head area. My picture I am re attaching to show two arrows top one is the linkage (what I’m calling it) to the second arrow it goes into that area... Let me know if this should stay unhooked through all this... I plan on picking up a long needle nose pliers and getting more grip on it to get it into that hole....

[BoxMN]

If you are just dropping the lower the lower unit to do the impeller, no - don't touch anything in the engine compartment. You don't even need to take the cowling off.

The connector (on my 96 25hp when I had it) was a funky little devil, but it is a brass connector that was inside/behind the plastic mesh on lower unit. You needed to unscrew the top nut looking piece from the bottom longer nut looking piece, and once totally loose, it just pulled apart. If I recall, you might need to put into reverse (or forward?) to "drop it" low enough to get wrench on it, as it is tight squeeze in there.

Be sure when putting it back together that you aim the water tube properly into the engine again, or you will need to do as I did, and drop the thing again to properly line it up. Also, make sure to not adjust the linkage on the nut looking connector or you will find that your gears will be mixed up... again, I did that as well, haha! All while mosquitoes were killing me and sun was going down! Ugh!

But once you figure out the connector for the linkage (again, in the lower unit area, not the engine compartment) you will do fine and figure it out. Hard the first time, easy every time after that! Good luck!

[MJBaldwin]

BOXMN,

Thanks for the words of advise I have been doing some heavy research online. Cant seem to find anything on my motor though. I will connect that one piece back up and go just to the lower unit. I have no problem giving things a shot I just hate when I fail and really do not want to pay a mechanic to do the job. I will look at the lower unit and get it out tonight and if all goes well I can get this thing back up a running! Then next time I make a trip to the cities get to help my brother in-law replace his as long as mine goes well. lol

[BoxMN]

I just did a search for when I was trying to figure it out, and here are the two replies, especially the bold parts, that solved it for me:

Default RE: 25 hp Evinrude 1996 - how to drop lower unit?

Take the sides of the water intake off.(plastic) You'll see two 1/2" nuts "jam'd" together, undo them and you'll see a small black plastic wedge thingy, use a pick to remove it and then remove all the other, obvious bolts. It will now drop!

#5 Report Post

Old 05-26-2004, 02:10 AM

Default RE: 25 hp Evinrude 1996 - how to drop lower unit?

i did this on an old johnson 25 and it seemed that putting the gear eitherin forward or reverse allowed the bottom of the lower unit to drop down enough to get at that gear connector. just keep at it yo will figure it out.

[jentz]

The PMs have a 5 limit and heres what I tried to post.I wont be back till morning hope this does it.

Did you unbolt the male and female nuts inside the area of the screen and remove the keeper?If you did... wiggle the lower and pull some.Sometimes build up gathers on the drive shaft where it enters the block.Heres a schematic of the 83 same as the

DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED BUT HERE I SEE ONE POST> WHEN I CLICK POST THERE ARE 5???I dont ??? look at any one their all the same??????? 82http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1983&hp=35&model=E35RCTS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase+-+35

[jentz]

Thats right BOX good post cept, those keepers come in black as original,Lots are white as their easy to lose and after markets seem to be white.same part just I call them nylon keepers inside the male /female nuts.

[MJBaldwin]

Alright mine has the screen with two screws one on each side screwing into each other that's it. Then I was exposed to the male and female nut. One hooking to the upper part of the motors and the other hookin to the lower. One I unhooked these I was able to drop the lower unit even further. But the one (male with threads) wouldn't go through the water pump area and wouldn't go through this.

I guess I'm confused on the keeper issue ill attach a picture of what I have currently.

Also when I go to put it back all together as I had to tonight. I couldn't get the lower unit up with the copper exhaust piece...

[MJBaldwin]