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replacement crank jobberdo


Tom7227

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I have a 50+ year old Anderson crank window and one of the crank jobberdo's is kaput. Anderson HSOforum indicated $167 which seems just a bit steep. Another, AMSCO, seems to have them for $55 but I have to call and make sure I get the correct one. Does anyone have and idea why Anderson would be so steep or whether the other one might be junk? Honestly both prices seem a bit high for something as simple as this thing is.

Thanks for your time.

Tom

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Aint that somthin!! Relics at those prices!! They seem to along with most all other manufactures change the design!! then want exorbitant prices.

In remodeling I ran across that many times.If its for your self and you want a working crank.Get the design from the window weather it is a nipple or recessed star,4 point,hex point>>Then go match it to some 6-12 dollar cranks.They will most likly require some grinding and fitting then paint if your fussy.but look at what mates to what you have then remodel it.Sometimes its a time consuming job but I'd bet you can get one of the on the shelf items and make it work.Many times I have done it!!

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I've ran into the same problem with my Anderson casement windows. The cranks are junk and almost all of mine have exploded. Anderson wants a fortune for them.

I've replaced the crank jobberdos with crank jobberdos I bought at the local Ace hardware and they work aboot a million times better. They were aboot 16 bucks a piece.

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OK, I have to ask the obvious question. Any chance that you have another window that you could take from that is seldom/never used? In any case, I sure would pursue looking for an after-market crank; after-market is almost always cheaper than something from the original manufacturer. Just a thought, I don't think 50+ years is all that bad for the life of something mechanical. It's just too bad that the Anderson part is so darn expensive for something that was mass produced at one time.

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I have an old Anderson crank that I took out a week or two ago and replaced. Frame is just sitting in the back yard waiting to be burned. Any chance you can snap a pic or have any details of what you need? I can check if mine is the same.

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I have an old Anderson crank that I took out a week or two ago and replaced. Frame is just sitting in the back yard waiting to be burned. Any chance you can snap a pic or have any details of what you need? I can check if mine is the same.

I've been out of town - hope you haven't had a fire. The numbers on mine are 7073B 12 and an R under the first set of digits. If it's a match let me know and I can come out and salvage it if it's OK with you.

Thanks for your time.

Tom

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LBG I just figured out how to take it apart. Mine has a brass inset that has a hex key that allows it to be disassembled. The brass insert seems to have broken off on the opposite side of the housing. I can't see if yours has that features. If your has it send me a private message about where I can come to pick it up. Thanks for the help. Tom full-12636-35083-crank.jpg

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I'll see if I can figure out how to get the assembly out of the frame.

After looking at your part number, I'm leaning towards the conclusion mine may not work (at least in its entirety). Mine has the handle in the center of the unit, where yours appears to be on one side.

I'll pull it anyways to check it out.

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This is the jobberdo that I need to fix. The part that seems to be kaflooey is a brass insert that has a hex key slot on the back. The gears rotate off the insert and that broke. I could use the housing as well as the one I have has the broken piece stuck in it.

Thanks

Tom

full-12636-35210-0722131118(2).jpg

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Take it in to a Andersen dealer. You'll get the whole assembly for far less than their HSOforum price. I have a few on the shelf right now for $60. That part has long outlived its life expectancy.

On a side note, they should be lubed regularly. they come greased on the inside. What people usually run into is gunk in the track on the actual sash that causes hard operation. they crank on the crank and end up stripping the gears. keep the track clean, and if need be lubricate it with a dry film type of lubricant. We use silicone spray. WD40 stays greasy and attracts more dirt and dust.

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