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Window replacement


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Sorry if this is long, but I'm gonna give yous guys the whole scenario.

A couple weeks ago, down here on the prairie we were blessed with really bad ice storms. Because of this, once things get settled with the insurance company, I'll be spending the majority of the summer repairing my house. New roof, insulation, ceilings in the kitchen, living room, dining room and bathroom, a couple windows, maybe a few rafters, etc.

My house has quite a few windows. They're Anderson crank outs and they suck. Every time a prairie wind comes along (every day) it grabs the window and pretty much explodes the crank out mechanism. We're sick of it and want to replace these windows.

Besides the above listed repairs we're going to be doing a little remodeling. This brings in the budget part. I know a guy shouldn't go cheap with windows as you get what you pay for. However, is there a type of replacement window that can be installed by just removing the existing sash and installing new, without replacing the whole entire window?

Edit- I should add, we want to replace the crank out style with a double hung style.

Thanks.

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Simple Answer, YES... And lots of them... You do have to make sure you get measured out to the correct spots on the crank outs... I have ran into that once where the guy who measured them from the yard, didn't get all the way to the final stops, and we ended up just doing a full replacement... WHICH, i would recommend as BEST case... but there are insert options...

Marvin/Integrity by Marvin would be a good one to look at...

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Tom, after looking around on Anderson, Pella, and Marvin's sites...........while spendy it doesn't look like that big of a deal.

In a nutshell, take out the old, put in the new.

I'll be contacting the local lumber yard (a Marvin window dealer) in the next couple days and get some estimates.

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basically the "insert Replacement" style window you pull off the stops and remove the "guts" of the window, and leave the jamb and trim in place... and then you insert the new window, and reinstall the stops, or possibly replace with a new stop material... But so far almost everyone I have done we have been able to just re use the original stops... Its a nice way to do it if you do not want to mess with trim and siding... there is also a full replacement style with the brick mould applied... These work nice, but require new trim, or potential re use of old trim (Usually they are a hair smaller inside, so you can cut down old trim and salvage if you like)... IMO though, if you are doing new siding, I would replace the whole window.. then you know for sure you are good to go for another 30+ years if you go with a good window... And also you find or replace any bad spots in the windows, or framing and flashings...

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Before ordering inserts, go around and look very closely at all the existing windows for rot, if you haven't already done so. That way you will know if there are any sills or other parts you will have to rebuild.

When I did that few years back (poked at them with a nail), I found 4 windows out of 24 with rot in the sills. That's what made me go with a complete replacement. I figured that if it happened on 4 windows, it may only be a matter of time before it happened on more. BTW, I went with Pella and got their metal brick mold attached to the window so it would retain the original character of the house and it was another thing I didn't have to paint.

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Check and see if you can get a rebate from your energy source. I think that windows may qualify for a tax credit. Check that out as well and if it does it can take at least a small bite out of the project. There might be a limit though on what you can get for the labor part of it.

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IMO though, if you are doing new siding, I would replace the whole window.. then you know for sure you are good to go for another 30+ years if you go with a good window... And also you find or replace any bad spots in the windows, or framing and flashings...

That is what I was thinking. When I remodeled the house in the late 80's I tore off the old siding,went with all new windows and also put 3/4 inch foil faced insulation on the exterior and then new siding and that combo made a huge difference in the noise we heard in the house as well as the heating bill. It did cost more money but it was well worth it. Also, I took some time and did my research and was able to order every window in the house to fit the existing rough openings and to reuse the original 1930's trim. I didn't have to do any interior plastering etc. which was a huge money saver.

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Can be done but its not like replacing and old single hung window. Right now you don't have any exterior stops, you'll add those. There are interior stops are usually dadoed into the jamb. The top and bottom stops won't be reusable because they are be mortised out for the crank and upper hardware.

I'd replace the whole unit. You'll have to take the interior casing/trim off to get the size. Then look at the R/O in relation to the window. If there was a goof in the original install you don't want to do the same. Is the spacing even and not to tight or too big. Give them the outside dimensions of the jamb/frame and it should be an easy install without messing with the siding. If your replacing any bedroom windows they will have to meet egress.

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... If your replacing any bedroom windows they will have to meet egress.

Did they change the rule? When mine were done, if windows were replaced with same size they didn't have to meet egress requirements, sort of a grandfather deal.

Would have been a big deal for us, with plaster etc.

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Yes your somewhat grandfathered in, BUT.

When installing new windows you can't reduce the sq. inch of opening.

Going from casement to double hung whether that be insert full unit it reduces the size.

Of coarse that is in the case of a window that didn't meet or fall below the requirements after the new window.

Egress Window Replacement

The International Residential Code (IRC) requires t

hat all new bedrooms must have windows that

meet egress requirements but the rules are not retr

oactive to windows in existing bedrooms

unless you replace those windows. If you are repla

cing a window in an existing bedroom, the

new window is not required to meet new egress requi

rements if the replacement window meets

the following conditions:

1. The existing height and width net clear opening

shall not be reduced by more than 2

inches (51 mm) in either dimension;

2. The rooms or areas are not used for any Minnesot

a state licensed purpose;

3. The window is not required pursuant to the Minne

sota Fire Code;

4. The sleeping room is not undergoing an addition,

remodeling, or a change in

occupancy; and

5. The window is not required to be replaced pursua

nt to a locally adopted housing,

property maintenance, or rental licensing code.

If you are replacing a bedroom window and you are i

ncreasing the size of the rough opening of

the window, the new window must meet current egress

requirements.

If you are replacing double hung windows and unable

to meet the minimum required size,

consider changing to casement windows.

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Or the government thinking I'm so stupid I'm going to fall off the roof unless I wear a harness.

As far as windows the Anderson cranks out are absolute garbage. My Dads house had them and within a few years all were swapped out for Traco Windows. The Traco's are nice windows but not cheap.

The Marvin Integrity is a nice window. My brother is replacing the windows in his home and that's what he's ordered.

As far as the windows my wife's GC company sells is Eagle Windows out of Rogers. For the money you can't find a better window.

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