Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Knife sharpener


icecold

Recommended Posts

Work SHarp knife and tool sharpener!!! I just bought one and it works as advertised, it is awesome! 70 bucks at northern tool and at fleet farm

I've always had dull knives and struggled to get a good edge on them. I bought the work sharp and it works great. Every knife I own if now shaving sharp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the absolute best bang for your buck you can find is a true knife sharpening stone (2 or 3 sided) with a little honing oil & do it yourself or find a professional knife sharpening service that charges $2-3/knife. Electric sharpeners are good but mostly gimicks cause if u dont know how to use em properly or your knives are made of soft steel instead of hard steel those electic sharpeners can kill a good knife in no time & pit the heck out of your edge. a small 2 sided stone & honing oil will do every bit as good a job $ better, the key is for you to have control of the blade & take your time....and like anything else practice, practice, practice. whatever your choice, be aware that your chosen product is made of crushed diamonds, the only thing that will truly make a difference and an awesome sharp edge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What model chefs choice do you guys have? I have the Gatco manual one from Cabelas and not real impressed. Unimpressed enough that my knives get dull and I procrastinate on sharpening them.

I have the Diamond Hone 120 and love it. It does every blade I have in the kitchen, plus all my camping stuff in no time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As this thread goes on, for sure there a lots of different tools that'll sharpen an edge.

When problems arise IMO it starts with not matching the angle and or bevel from the previous sharpening.

A blade that might have just needed a touch up can turn into a very frustrating job if your abrasive is not touching the edge. You could spend all day with a fine grit but your only working on the heal of the bevel.

With the different type sharpers mentioned, so are the edges they produce different.

Basically you have the flat V ground edge or a compound bevel made with a stone.

Compound bevel being the most popular.

The belt type grinders are going to give you a convex edge.

Wheel stones make a hollow ground.

Now say you take a wet/oil stone or a V stick and try and sharpen a knife with a convex edge.

Your going to be there for a while.

So whatever type edge you have depends on what type sharpener you have.

Your better not mixing different style sharpeners on a knife.

Something that will help you is to mark the bevel with a sharpie(felt pen).

Make your stroke and take a look at the bevel. Thats going to tell you if your

taking anything off the edge or wasting time on the heal of the bevel.

Starting with Coarse, Medium, or Fine?

That depends on the condition of the edge.

If you start out with fine on an edge that should be started with coarse or medium you won't get anywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As this thread goes on, for sure there a lots of different tools that'll sharpen an edge.

When problems arise IMO it starts with not matching the angle and or bevel from the previous sharpening.

A blade that might have just needed a touch up can turn into a very frustrating job if your abrasive is not touching the edge. You could spend all day with a fine grit but your only working on the heal of the bevel.

With the different type sharpers mentioned, so are the edges they produce different.

Basically you have the flat V ground edge or a compound bevel made with a stone.

Compound bevel being the most popular.

The belt type grinders are going to give you a convex edge.

Wheel stones make a hollow ground.

Now say you take a wet/oil stone or a V stick and try and sharpen a knife with a convex edge.

Your going to be there for a while.

So whatever type edge you have depends on what type sharpener you have.

Your better not mixing different style sharpeners on a knife.

Something that will help you is to mark the bevel with a sharpie(felt pen).

Make your stroke and take a look at the bevel. Thats going to tell you if your

taking anything off the edge or wasting time on the heal of the bevel.

Starting with Coarse, Medium, or Fine?

That depends on the condition of the edge.

If you start out with fine on an edge that should be started with coarse or medium you won't get anywhere.

This. Harbor freight has a 4 sided diamond block that is only $10-20. For the money it is the best available. Diamond makes very quick work. Just know that many knives come from the factory with a convex grind and matching that is very difficult. If you sharpen it and quickly/easily get it sharp quickly you haven't taken the heal or the shoulder off. It will reduce overall bevel and angle until it is essentially flat. Worksharps look great, but I have a friend that picked up a small belt sander for $10 and can hold a 20 degree angle just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.