Jmnhunter

first year with a plow here; using a Swisher universal system; the PITA about it is I have to take the mount off if i want to use it ice fishing as it takes your clearance away. Its a heavy duty system even comes with a dump bucket, I may sell it this spring and get a quick release arctic cat system but thats a few $$$; would be perfect if you dont have to worry about taking off the mount until spring

I had this issue a few weeks ago; I only tried 2 cycles of turning the thermostat off then back on but it would do as you explained. In the manual it says it may take up to 3 cycles. But after 2 tries, i thought the limit switch was shot which i replaced on the ice (PITA by the way with the short wire they provided). then it worked but there was one other time where it would not fire. So I called Smokey Hills in Park rapids as they are good to talk about ice house issues and he told me to clean out the furnace, but after looking at it, it looked beyond my capabilities. So i then took the "sail switch" out and sanded/cleaned that up, tried shop vacuuming anything I could. AND also have been doing the correct shut down/purge procedure as the manual states, which is to run the heat, turn off propane, then turn off the thermostat. So perhaps my prior shutdowns wouldn't purge the system correctly, knock wood, working great again *This is a Suburban 35

checked both lights out last night, nothing visually noticeable; added a jumper to the one tail light on the drivers side, still have to test it out so we will see

theres still fish in Pelican? Ever since I've moved here the locals say it used to be a great lake now its hit or miss...or maybe thats what they want us to know...

I haven't been on gull yet this year but heard the same for hole in the day-- It'll be really close on what they decide on for jaycees as I'm assuming they'll be measuring by this Sunday at the latest, snowing now and more coming...

This and I still have to put out poison in the garage!

wow; i've noticed this every once in awhile too; all in all lazy slobs then they'll wonder why nothing works next time. I cant imagine the rodent damage!

The strip light's ground should be sourced to one of the main tail lights though right? The strip light's ground should be sourced to one of the main tail lights though right?

Noticed one of my rear running lights--the red led strip towards the top-- works intermittently; and the drivers side LED is dim. From what i've read, the ice castle's grounding wires are behind the aluminum panels on a bolt, saw a Youtube video of some lady who had a good video on it. anyhow, it would seem easier to run a jumper directly from each rear light to the frame correct?

anyone find a lighter alternative to the ice castle tables? the thing can be a PITA to move and align

slapped them on the front yesterday since i didnt have the house hooked on for rear weight; just too much snow in general, front end just kept pushing snow and eventually stopping the truck. for starters i got hung up and stuck trying to break away from the plowed road and as others have mentioned, it doesnt take long for you to dig a hole in the ice when your tire starts to spin! if the snow melts another 1" or 2" should be able to get around or if my frame sat up another 2"; overall i think it will be alot nicer to slap the chains on when the snow isnt this bad to maneuver the house alot easier off of the plowed areas. chains didnt take long at all to slap on either, <10 min, should get faster; using the simple style V bar quick grip by Peerless

Just ordered some chains for my truck. 1.) getting a lot of snow lately 2.) as a new ice house owner I’ve become to realize I’ve been limited to the community spots; now I’d like to be on my own more im curious for those who tow ice castles if they chain the front or rears; researching the topic has various opinions; front to pull not push; rears if you have limited slip. Not worried about weight in the back

leech, now you need to post some geo-tagged pics of those bucks you got from the paul bunyan

hey Web, do you have the model name for the new style co/lp alarm just in case mine does it again

tracked down some quick numbers; supposedly the heater draw at 7 amps, and that would be the main appliance to be ran at night +-1.5 hour total run time during a 8 hour sleep period; i should have plenty of power on the battery!