Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

05 Ford F150 V8 5.4


Recommended Posts

So took truck into ford dealer to see why it wasnt running right. Got it back last night. There saying that my cadaladtic convertor is junk. Truck as 89k on it. Doesnt start normal, have to crank it over 2-3 times sometimes to get it to fire. There is a check engine light, and this is what there telling me is wrong.

If they fix it is going to be 700-1000, anyone have any ideas to help me out?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2005 F150's had injector issues dumping too much gas in. They extended the warranty to 120K. Have your injectors been replaced? This could cause catalytic convertor failure from what I understand. You may be having injector issues and the convertor should be covered if the injectors failed. Just a thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I dont know that the converter is causing your starting concern, unless it is completely plugged, bt then you would have no power at all. Assuming they did test the converter, and found it bad, there is more then likely something else wrong, that caused the converter to go bad, and that is probably what is causing your hard start as well. $1000 for the converter isnt too bad, but I would ask if ford will help you out on it some.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

called the dealer and they couldnt tell me what the code was. said they didnt write it down but kept saying the code was for the convertor.

Im going to go to oreilys today and have them pull the code.

You will have to pull the codes your self at O'Reilys they will not step foot in your car. But its not hard at all good luck if you dont have a check engine light on those readers are not the best I have ran into that problem before but its worth a shot its free and takes about 5 min to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

called the dealer and they couldnt tell me what the code was. said they didnt write it down but kept saying the code was for the convertor.

Im going to go to oreilys today and have them pull the code.

That sounds fishy? They need to document the codes on the work order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boy, I'd run from that dealer!!!! Like Airjer said, no codes listed on the RO?! If you came back to have the work done at a later date, they're gonna have to do the check again?! Ya, right. Run away!!! Run away!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2000 f-150 and had the same code when I had a shorted coil. Is the engine missing at all?

Its not missing at all, just starts hard. when it sits for a long time and finally starts, it revs up to 2600-3000 rpm when it starts then goes back to 1500 after it sits for like 5-10 secs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its not missing at all, just starts hard. when it sits for a long time and finally starts, it revs up to 2600-3000 rpm when it starts then goes back to 1500 after it sits for like 5-10 secs

I am not a mechanic so am answering with my guess quick before one shows up. Leaky injector? Starts hard because gas in fuel line drips into cylinder or intake flooding it. Revs up until excess gas burnt out. Excess hydrocarbons make cat converter run hot.

Now to wait and see if I was even close.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There could be a nmber of things that caused the cat to go bad, but I would address the problem before replacing the cat. A leaky injector, excessive/not enough fuel pressure, bad coil pack, variable cam timing, among others.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Aw, man, sorry to hear that.  Shed some tears and remember her well.  They all take a piece of our hearts with them; some more than others.
    • yes sorry for your loss..  our dogs are always special...
    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.