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Rough-in Bathrooom Tile Steps


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Currently my basement bathroom is plumbing roughed in. I would like to finish it with a tiled floor. For the toilet specifically, there is currently just a piece of PVC sticking up a foot for the drain that is capped off. Should I tile now up against the PVC or do I need to install the toilet (or toilet flange) first before tile?

Thanks

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Either way, doesnt' really matter in the end. YOu just might need a thicker wax ring if the tile installed first.

More important is making sure the concrete around the waste stub is flat, alot of times concrete finishers won't take thier time to make sure the floor is uniform all the way around the pipe making for high spots and concrete that needs grinding.

Good luck!

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Either way you do it the flange should be set on top of the flooring. Just make sure you have adequate clearances so the flange will fit flush and not hang up on anything.

One tip when installing the flange, don't use primer, just use glue on the pvc. If the flange should ever break it will make it slightly easier to remove for replacement, yet will still hold and seal well enough for a toilet.

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If I assume you are thin-setting the CT of the concrete floor, then install the tile first and then set the closet flange on top of the tile. Then install the toilet on top of the tile. BTW, in addition to cementing the closet flange to the pipe, I like to Tapcon the flange to the concrete floor.

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Wow, thanks everyone for the responses. Since I will have better access before the flange and toilet are installed I will probably just do the tile first, then flange. The concrete is surprising flat up to the PVC.

Thanks for the hints on primer and cementing the flange!

APpreciate the help guys!

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If I assume you are thin-setting the CT of the concrete floor, then install the tile first and then set the closet flange on top of the tile. Then install the toilet on top of the tile. BTW, in addition to cementing the closet flange to the pipe, I like to Tapcon the flange to the concrete floor.

+1 This is what I did

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Use primer. You want this to last, right? It's also a code requirement with pvc.

I talked with a family friend who owns his own plumbing business when I had to replace the flange in my basement toilet a few months ago. He said it's standard procedure to not use primer on the flange in a basement, since everything is under concrete and replacing a flange is pretty common, it makes it slightly easier. And when I dug into it it seemed as though primer wasn't used when the original was installed either. It was adhered fine, just needed to make a couple cuts on the inside of the flange and a little prying and it all popped out without breaking the drain line. Which if that happened I would have had to bust out a bunch of concrete in a finished bathroom. I've tried to break apart PVC with primer used in the past and it seems as though they are totally fused together and it's impossible to cut them apart like I did without breaking something.

If it is wrong and completely illegal fine, take what I said earlier and use it at your own risk, but I currently have it in my basement bathroom and am not worried one bit with it breaking.

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What a timely post! Replacing wax ring tomorrow. Two Q's

1) Should the flange be higher, lower, or even with the tile? I think the guy that did my tile work a few years ago made it a little lower then the tile so I have had a few leaks! frown

2)Has anyone ever used one of those Wax-less toilet seals? How did they work and things to watch out for, other then cleaning the seal area really well.

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leech, even if the guy installed the ring a little low you shouldn't have leaks if the wax ring(s) was installed correctly. Like CAMAN said, you just stack the rings to get the proper height. BTW, the wax rings I use are the No-Seep with the plastic flange the projects into the waste pipe.

I have never used the waxless seals, in fact I didn't know such a thing existed. But I probably would not use them because the wax rings have withstood the test of time, they're cheap and I know for sure they work. It comes under the heading "If it works, don't fix it".

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If the flange is set a "bit" lower than the finished floor that's okay, just have to use a extra thick wax ring to get the right seal. They also make flange extensions that work for this situation.

In an ideal world, the flange would sit on top of the finished floor. But if it doesn't, it's really no big deal.

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Caman, glad it works for you but giving advice that doesn't meet code and not telling people it doesn't meet code seems a bit irresponsible, IMO.

Leech, ideally the flange would be just above the tile. This way you only need to use one wax ring. The wax ring should be at room temp when you install it. I normally put the closet bolts on first, double nutting them. Dry fit the toilet bowl without the wax ring. Check for level and shim if neccesary. Leave the shims in place. Pull the toilet bowl off, put the wax ring on and place the bowl back on. You should feel the bowl sit on the ring and then start to squish down when you push down.

I used a neoprene gasket once with a Toto toilet that a homeowner supplied once. Didn't seem to leak but I can't say how it has held up over time.

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Caman, glad it works for you but giving advice that doesn't meet code and not telling people it doesn't meet code seems a bit irresponsible, IMO.

A- I didn't know it didn't meet code and B- I was told by a licensed plumber to do it that way, and that many plumber do it that way for basement toilets.....

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O.K., sometimes my wording seems to get me in trouble. Sorry about being offensive but I've never heard of anyone doing this. I guess I'll put it this way, why not glue in the flanges upstairs without primer? Same principle isn't it?

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Another tip on tiling the floor is to make sure your tile is nice and flat with no lippage or high corners. If tile is uneven the stool will not sit down flat on the floor. Have seen this happen and whoever put in the toilet cranked down the bolts and broke it because the tile was not level.

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