Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Dumb Question But Could Use Advice For A Beginner.


MJBaldwin

Recommended Posts

This will probably sound like the dumbest quetion but whats the easiest way to figure out the depth you are in? I use the weight but then seems like I can never figure the depth cuz I am used to just using my pole to look at it and guess. Like I have stated I am a beginner at the whole Ice Fishing and do not have a flasher or anything like that..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just counted my arm's length. Gave me a close guess before a flasher. Or tie knots/bobber stops on, hard if you actually use bobbers but that can help if you set them at 5 ft increments. Its a start but someone might have a better trick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at maps and judge based off of that. If you have an iphone or android try the navionics application, everyone says that it is really good. Friends said it was accurate up at Mille Lacs, but I haven't bought it yet.

You can get a depth finder for about 100 dollars. Try the ice troller out, it is a cheap flasher that tells depth and marks fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 Counting with your body. Your wingspan (arms outstretched) is the same as your height, or dang close for most people. Just use a depth bomb to quickly get to the bottom, then pull up one wingspan at a time. Keep count and multiply for your depth.

Step two is to put a bobber stop on with the depth bomb, and the adjust the stop to be below the water surface (in your hole) as far as you want your jig off the bottom. It'll happen just like magic when you take off the bomb and add a bobber.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your arm span from fingertip to fingertip is usually very close to your hight, so I'm 6 ft tall so arms streched apart across my chest with line in each hand = 6 ft + or - a few inches. So drop your depth bomb weight to the bottom tighten the line grab the line at the water level and fighure out the depth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+Step two is to put a bobber stop on with the depth bomb, and the adjust the stop to be below the water surface (in your hole) as far as you want your jig off the bottom. It'll happen just like magic when you take off the bomb and add a bobber.

I use the same system only when the depth bomb hits bottom I lift out a foot or two of line and put on a small crimp on sinker so I know where to run my bobber stop up to. No measuring. Take off the depth bomb and replace with minnow head and you are fishing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to clip a depth bomb to the end of a tape measure. I always have a Fat Max laying around in the truck. With the weight attached, you can also tell if the bottom is soft or hard. Not sure how well that would work with a $5 tape measure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you are sitting around doing nothing you should measure your arm length but more then likely it will be around 6'. Need to be down 16' it is 3 arm lengths minus 2'. When you get some extra cash you really owe it to yourself to get a flasher. I sold a old Hyndex FL8 (Pre Vexular) for $75.00 and that flasher helped me catch a lot of fish so its not like you have to break the bank to get into a flasher if you shop around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a tape measure for a long time before I had a flasher, only tip is to have two along as they don't work so well once they're full of water and frozen. Also, either open them up to dry once in a while or they're useless once the rust sets in...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, pre-flasher era, I just took a tape measure and with my shack/porty airing out in the garage measured the distance between the ceiling and the garage floor. I then just wrote the measurement on the support pole for good measure. When you are sitting in the shack and checking depth, hit the bottom with a depth bomb/weight and reel down till your rod tips touches the waters surface. Raise the tip up from the waters surface how far you want your jig from the bottom and set your bobber stop. Want to know the depth? Raise you tip to touch the shack/porty ceiling, pinch your line at water level and pull up to ceiling. Repeat the pulling of the line up till jig comes out of water, mentally note the difference in distance from your finger tips and the waters surface your jig is touching. Then times by how many full pulls from the waters surface to ceiling you did against the measurement written on your support pole. Add in the distance you first saw and this is pretty accurate. Using my arm would sometimes get me off a foot or two.

For dead-sticking, bobber fishing and even jigging, I have run two bobber stops on the same line. Depth bomb your line, then set the first bobber stop you put on your line as at water level. The will be your stationary bottom marker. Then you can use the second one for the stop used with your bobber or while jigging you can use the second one as a gauge of how far you are pulling off the bottom. The Venom Floats work awesome with and larger jig fishing. You can adjust your buoyancy and when fish are in the area you can easily and quickly pull the bobber off and Boom! You jigging with knowledge of far you are pulling off the bottom.

The big plus is while dead-sticking. As the rod sits in the holder you will always know where you bottom is at and how far off the bottom you are. wink

Hard to figure I even fished, let alone figured out way pre-flasher. grin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a neat little gadget in the discount bin a that g-mt store a few years back, its a thermometer/depth finder in a tube made by Vexllar. Just drop it down, wait 30 seconds and pull it up one side has depth grade that you match with the water level in the tube, the other side has the thermometer. I still use the plain depth bomb and count arms length mostly or just adjust the bobber slip knot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just like to add to Tall Tom's comment on questions. Not sure, think it was Einstein that said "If you do not learn something new every day, you have wasted your day". And you learn best by asking questions.

This is a wonderful site to get them answered...sometimes in a miriad of different ways/perspectives.

Stay warm,

The FishLocker

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a thin rigid piece of plastic or wood, and cut it to be a 3" by 2'3" rectangle. On the short ends, cut "v" notches in them 1 1/2" deep, so the distance between the tips of the notches is exactly 2'. Tie on some cheap tip up line and a depth bomb, so that the depth bomb ends up close to the end of one of the v notches. As you unwrap it, count it off in 2' increments as one side is 2' and a full unwrap is 4'. Use a couple of rubber bands off of brocolli bunches to hold the line on when not using it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your using a standard reel just measure how much each crank of the handle reels in. Say each time you reel in it pulls 30" drop your line in reel up and do the math. Remember though each reel is different on how much it will reel in each revolution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As previously stated, your "wingspan" is about 6 feet. The tip of your nose to your hand extended is about 3 feet. These measurements are only important if you are trying to find a specific depth or location. Otherwise, the distance you place your bait off the bottom is the main concern.

To me, 12-18 inches above bottom is common; sometimes less or more, depending on circumstances like bottom type and fish behavior. This can be marked with a bobber stop, non-movable bobber, or a split shot. Simply pinch the line at the water surface and measure down. If using a tip-up, add the distance your line spool sits underwater to your desired distance off bottom and mark it with a split shot, which will sit just outside of the spool when the bait is down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a thin rigid piece of plastic or wood, and cut it to be a 3" by 2'3" rectangle. On the short ends, cut "v" notches in them 1 1/2" deep, so the distance between the tips of the notches is exactly 2'. Tie on some cheap tip up line and a depth bomb, so that the depth bomb ends up close to the end of one of the v notches. As you unwrap it, count it off in 2' increments as one side is 2' and a full unwrap is 4'. Use a couple of rubber bands off of brocolli bunches to hold the line on when not using it.

this sounds good but as you wind up more and more line, the distance becomes greater than 2"...now you just defeated the purpose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.