Snow Shoes?

[HANS76]

Sick of walking through 2 plus feet of snow to retrieve yotes! Anybody know what brands are good for a 260lb man? Can a guy even get a decent pair for under a hondo? Thanks

[jigginjim]

I have been looking at the same thing, but everything I have found will run over $150 min. up to $200. Looking for a good set to use for hunting as well as trapping.

[Pinusbanksiana]

[Note From Admin: Please Read Forum Policy Before Posting Again, Thank YOU]

[Chuck-B]

I just bought a pair on HSO-Classifieds for $50. I got the old military snowshoes cause the newer style ones dont keep me up on top of the snow. I am 6'2" 200lbs. and the shoes i have now are 9"x30" and i sink in 8 or 10 inches. The military ones i ordered are 12"x47" I havent recieved them yet but i will let you know how they work

[Chuck-B]

i see someone changed my words. i got them on the worlds biggest aution wedsite.

[Pinusbanksiana]

Oh, I see the link I put up for Iverson snowshoes got deleted, do they think we are stupid or something? Google Iverson snowshoes. Iverson. Made in the USA, traditional snowshoes.

[Jackpine Rob]

There are still a ton of the military snowshoes out there. They are a Michigan-style shoe with a magnesium frame and coated aircraft cable webbing on them.

Pretty well indestructible - and they are all I really use anymore. Fairly cheap, very tough and get the job done.

Sportsman's Guide has them on sale.

At over 6+ feet and 260 lbs, you're going to sink even with 4x8 sheets of plywood strapped to your feet, but a tough set of snowshoes like this will make the project workable for you.

[Powerstroke]

Nobody is trying to trick anyone about deleting links. Forum policy doesn't allow posting of direct links. I didn't change it personally, but it was done to comply with policy.

Snowshoes do not allow you to walk on top of the snow as if there isn't any. Every style of snowshoe will allow you to sink some. The point is that no matter how deep the snow is, you won't sink any further. It all depends on the density of the snow, the style of shoe and whether its sized properly for you.

I have a pair of Atlas shoes with the aluminum frame and neoprene decking. I love the bindings and they are easy to move in. I spent a miles on them yesterday and made a BWCA trip in them two years ago. The snow was up to my waist and I never sank more than 6-8" in the fresh powder.

[jigginjim]

I may have to start calling military shops. I have woren the military shoes years back, but they seem hard to fine in good shape.

[woodspliter]

I may have to start calling military shops. I have woren the military shoes years back, but they seem hard to fine in good shape.

Call Sportsman's Guide, the ones I got there came with a nice set of bindings too.

[psegriz]

There are still a ton of the military snowshoes out there. They are a Michigan-style shoe with a magnesium frame and coated aircraft cable webbing on them.

Pretty well indestructible - and they are all I really use anymore. Fairly cheap, very tough and get the job done.

Sportsman's Guide has them on sale.

At over 6+ feet and 260 lbs, you're going to sink even with 4x8 sheets of plywood strapped to your feet, but a tough set of snowshoes like this will make the project workable for you.

One thing to consider is the noise factor if you'll be doing hunting in them. The metal ones are alot noisier than wood. I am in the process of looking for a new pair myself due to the 26 yr old ones being stolen. I have looked on the internet and can't find what I need exactly but have been talking to some trappers from canada and alaska and they agree if your hunting stay with traditional wood ones. Some like the newer pvc webbing and other prefer the older rawhide type.

[Jackpine Rob]

Having extensive experience on both, I am going to disagree with you there Griz. Those of us who have spent quality time on the wood and rawhide shoes are familiar with the "creak" of the shoes - I kinda like the sound, but is sound. I tend to get a lot less creak on the military shoes on soft snow. Of course, if a guy is clattering across hard-pack or ice, the traditional wood will be quieter - but then a guy wouldn't need the shoes, eh?

When I'm coyote hunting on snowshoes or skis, I take them off at each set. The white frames of the military shoes are good snow camo, but that too is usually a moot point since I will lay them flat, put my little pad on the shoe and I have an instant bench seat. When you're sitting still and squalling on the calls, the noise of the snowshoe is not in play.

Just my $.02.

[HunterLee]

I have used all three, wood long ones, the metal kind and the military surplus.

The military surplus have worked great. Float good, quiet, but a little tough to put on with the bindings they give you. 40 bucks from sportsmans guide

Wood ones were borrowed but were real nice, but would cost over 200 bucks plus really big.

Metal one i had were noisy, bindings wouldn't fit over my big snowboots and did not float that well. plus 150 bucks

[Rippin'Lips]

In my personal opinion, I would go with the snowshoe that has the easiest bindings to get in and out of no matter what the cost. I've been military for 14 years and the white military ones are great, but the bindings are slow to get in and out of. It goes without saying that you need snowshoes that are fitted for you, however, the bigger they are the harder they are to walk in.

Just a side note for you guys that have the military ones, if you get yourself into a pickle the metal frame can be scraped with a knife to create matal shavings that are great for starting fires. Survival 101 by a fat kid from Frazee.

[Pinusbanksiana]

As far as bindings go, easier is not always better. You need a binding that will hold your foot in place and also move with your boot. I wear snowshoes for work almost every day and I like a H style binding. And I have tried them all. I hate the easy on things, junk in my opinion. I can get in and out of a set of H bindings as fast as the others. You just have to adjust it to your boot and above all, take a little time and see how it works before it is 12 degrees and you need to have your gloves off.

[Chuck-B]

I had the new aluminum style ones and I sank about 10"s every step. I bought the military ones and love them. The bindings I had to read about how to get them on but they are simple getting in and out of.

[swamptiger]

I have a couple pair of the wood frame snowshoes - one shorter pair for the brush, and one longer pair for soft snow and open country, but I've tried the military surplus ones too, and they are good - well made, too. You can put whatever type of binding you like on most snowshoes. Leather works, but it tends to stretch when it gets wet.

[Steve Foss]

Sick of walking through 2 plus feet of snow to retrieve yotes! Anybody know what brands are good for a 260lb man? Can a guy even get a decent pair for under a hondo? Thanks

I used to go 280, and there were no snowshoes on the market that could float me well, especially with gear/clothing on. Even the ones that say good up to 300 lbs are just making marketing talk. I even doubled up on the rawhide a couple years ago, threading in a lot more and hoping for added flotation. Didn't work any better. Now I'm 225, and my shoes work well.

If you don't have the new aluminum/neoprene deck style shoes with their integral bindings (I don't; I have the old Michigan style rawhide/ash shoes), the Bob Maki bindings are the best I've found. Easy to get on/off, comfortable, secure.

The largest size neoprene deck/aluminum shoes (Sherpa, Atlas, etc.) will be the most efficient for floating you. You might find some success Googling "oversize snowshoes." I nearly ordered a pair of Northern Lites Tundras, which seemed to me to be the best large shoe I could find online, but then I lost all that weight and didn't need them.

[Pinusbanksiana]

What was your weight loss regime?

[mixxedbagg]

Kind of depends on where you're walking. I'll assume that if you're retrieving coyotes, you're probably in pretty open country. In that case, I'd want long wood shoes that really spread your weight. Plus, as others have mentioned, they're much quieter on crust.

If I'm bushwhacking in the woods, I'll take aluminum shoes every time. They're smaller, so you can get through brush and around deadfall without hanging up the front end and doing a faceplant. Sometimes browsed off seedlings will go right through the rawhide mesh on wood shoes and stop you right there. Also, in the woods, you run the risk of "bridging" wood snowshoes on topography, rocks, or down wood and I've seen wood ones break because of that. Not a problem with aluminum.

The cleats on aluminum are a double edged sword. If the snow is crusty enough or of there is deadfall, the cleats can grab and you might trip. On the other hand, if you're going down a steep slope, those cleats will keep you from skiing...which can happen on the wood ones. (If you can't tell, I'm usually not snowshoeing in the best conditions.)

A lot of snowshoe fanatics I know love the Bob Maki bindings. I haven't tried them. Honestly, I haven't found any bindings I like with larger pack boots. Every type I've ever used have been either uncomfortable, not durable, came loose, were difficult to strap, couldn't accommodate large boots, or I had trouble getting the fit the same on both shoes. I tend to wear the smallest boots I can get away with when I snowshoe. Overall, I guess I prefer the buckle type on aluminum shoes to leather or the nylon/velcro ones usually on wood shoes.

Even though I use them a lot, I don't particularly enjoy snowshoeing longer distances. Most of the time, the snow is either too sticky, too powdery, or the crust is just right to let you break through but then hook you when you lift the shoe. It seems like we get about 4 good days in Minnesota where you can snowshoe off trail with ease...the rest of the time it's a chore.

[Pinusbanksiana]

Look at the Iverson web site "H" style bindings. They have many adjustments and once you get it set for your particular boot, all you need to do is unbuckle the instep strap each time for on and off. They hold your boot in great once it is set up. The set up time is what most people don't understand or don't like because your fingers get cold with out mittens on.

[Neighbor_guy]

These are what I use. Purchased in '91 after the big blizard. I had 2 pairs, but a Rotty pup I had decided that the rawhide made a good chew toy. They "work" for me. They may not be the best and there is still a little sink, but out coyote hunting last night I sunk about 4 inches with the shoes and the snow was more than knee deep and misserable walking without them. They are rated for 150lbs.... I have not been 150lbs since '91, currently running just under 2bills, add gear, boots, and shotgun, and I would likely tip the scales at closer to 225. The bindings are easy, 3 buckles, only have to use 2 of them, the heal and over the boot. They are 36" or 38" depending on how you measure them. Great in the woods and the cattails. A little loud on crusty/icy snow, but not like the snare drums the Aluminum frame ones are.

They were marketed by Gander in '91. Now they are being sold at the big "C-Store" over in rogers. "Faber" out of Canada Makes them. Now looking at their HSOforum it says my shoes are rated to 225lbs, so I guess I dont feel like I am not stressing them too much. They do have shoes rated up to 350lbs, so bigger guys should be able to find something. You will be looking at close to $175 out the door with bindings....

[HANS76]

Thanks everybody for the advice! I ended up saving on the wallet and went with the 40 dollar military ones. Only have used them a couple times. The bindings took a little bit to figure out but i have them dialed in now! On a side note our group got 5 more yotes today!

[motley man]

Buy a pair of the rubber bindings that you just slip into with no buckles or anything. They work great [easy on/easy off] and are the best I have ever used.

[Steve Foss]

Buy a pair of the rubber bindings that you just slip into with no buckles or anything. They work great [easy on/easy off] and are the best I have ever used.

I used those for several years and was happy with them in general. Didn't hold the boot stable enough on slopes and in gnarly situations for me, so I switched to the Bob Maki bindings, which provide a much better hold on the toe of the boot but also incorporate the same easy slip-on rubber rear binding.