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'05 Silverado...AGAIN


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As some of you will recall, I had to replace the 4x4 actuator for a couple hundred bucks a month or so ago.

Now today I spent $428 because the heater fan quit (motor, resister and a terminal).

Well, here's my question. This truck has 93,000 miles on it and its five plus years old now. I had one problem with it which was a torque converter that went out right after a tranny flush and they helped me with the cost of replacing it. Other than that its been a pretty darn good rig. BUT, is it time its going to start beating the heck out of me on repairs? What are the common things I can expect to be having to fix/repair on this rig in the next 20000-30000 miles or so???

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in this economic environment if this thing is payed for, id drive it till she dies , 428 is cheap compared to a payment that big every month, what just happened is very common that little terminal by itself is 110 bucks and not an easy fix,one thing i would think about though is if its real rusty underneath then you may consider unloading it ,its a big problem with this newer stuff rusts really bad, hard on brake lines and fuel lines then youre talkin major job fixin and you know what goes along with it!

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I am very interested in your observations about "rusting in all this modern stuff" as I just bought a Silverado crew cab. I would be inclined to think that modern vehicles would be far LESS inclined to rust than those of a couple decades back. Can you point me toward any discussions on this?

What have been the experiences of other recent vintage GM pick ups? If this IS going to be a problem I want to jump on it now!!

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Lawdog, some other things you can look forward to.

Fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, Evap vent solenoid, Catalytic converts (not as common as the older models), plenum gaskets, o2 sensors, axle seals, power steering pumps (although I think they have solved that problem), rear backing plates, rear calipers, steering column bushings and water pump gaskets are all fairly common.

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I am very interested in your observations about "rusting in all this modern stuff" as I just bought a Silverado crew cab. I would be inclined to think that modern vehicles would be far LESS inclined to rust than those of a couple decades back. Can you point me toward any discussions on this?

What have been the experiences of other recent vintage GM pick ups? If this IS going to be a problem I want to jump on it now!!

I also questioned the validity of this quote about rusting more in current vehicles. I'd like to see more information on it it too.

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I've got a 99 Sierra with 230,000 miles on it and I've had a bunch of work done.

Fuel Pressure Regulator a couple times (which is a cheap repair, don't let a dealer do it for you), Fuel Pump once, front axle seals, front-left wheel bearing, driveshaft universal joint, water pump, shocks, tie rod ends & front end bushings, etc...

My transmission went out around 200,000 or so and needed a rebuild.

Lately I've been replacing a lot of the front end drivetrain stuff but of course I've got a couple hundred thousand on it.

And actually right now I have no heat or AC in the truck. I replaced the blower motor resistor last year and then I found out my controls are defaulting to Defrost only. No panel, no floor, etc. Gonna have to get to it soon as I need heat soon. LOL!

I've still been very happy with the truck, I've owned it for almost 10 years so 5 of those years have been without a payment. Repairs are starting to add up now but it still cheaper than buying a different truck.

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Carrier bearing on 2 piece dive shaft. That should not be to terrible to do. I have a lift and had to put a carrier bearing drop bracket in and it does not look to bad to change. For the heck of it I priced one for my truck and it was $120 for just the part though.

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i mentioned newer stuff ive seen 3 chevys this year 2003 up to 2006 have to have complete replacement of brake lines 1500.00 to 1750.00 repair bill they just rotted in half i think they have cut corners with steel quality to save money, what companys do you know that arent trying just to survive theese days also the frames were very orange to, on one of em the tranny cooler lines rotted off it a month before the brake lines went it also could be this new liquid calcium that they have just started using within the last 5 years idunno but i do know ive been amazed at what ive seen underneath this stuff lately im not biased either i got chevy , gmc .dodge, fords, and toyotas believe me with all this i have mechanic and visit him he shows me all this stuff you outta hear the stories about duramaxes hes got but i cant keep typin to long.

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Within the last month I've had to replace the HVAC blend door actuator and the water pump on my 04 Silverado. I could have gotten by with just doing the gaskets on the pump, but figured with 111k on the pump I might as well replace it since it had to come off anyway. I've had the truck since it was new (about 6.5 yrs), and other than regular maintenance (oil,brakes, etc.) I've put less than $500 in it. I can't complain, the truck has been reliable.

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For an old guy driving a new Silverado you guys come across as Mr.Gloom and his pals Doom and Dread! Ha!! It seems to be a nice truck.

I'm not in love with it like I was my old Power Stroke because is seems sorta like a sissy truck,but it is comfortable (now that I took the stock tires off and threw them away) and has all kinds of nifty [PoorWordUsage] I can't figure out. But it's okay. But now I will not be able to sleep at nights worrying about what is going to break first.!!!

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Slightly off subject but are you guys worried about how the economy is affecting these newer vehicles? I have two friends that bought f150's just recently and have been in the shop more then they care. My dads silverado has been just the same.

Most companies are finding ways to cut cost's. Even though vehicles are cheap and they offer low to zero interest, are these QUALITY vehicles or should one wait? Where are they saving costs?

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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