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Best bow for fit and max FPS!


Finlander

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Here is my question: I calculated my exact draw length at 27 inches. After reading about how any certain bow performs best at it's highest rated poundage and max draw length, I figure if I find a $400.00 bow rated for say 50 lbs. and its top IBO rated bow speed say around 295fps, is that better than buying a $800.00 bow with a draw length that goes from 26-30 inch and cranking it down to 50lbs. and only get 240fps.

Too old for more poundage! But like the speed if I can obtain it in a correct bow fitted for me. confused

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I think there is some confusion here. So here are a couple points to clarify.

1. Longer draw length = more speed. For example, the exact same bow (i.e. model, such as Hoyt Maxxis 31), set at the exact same poundage (say 70lbs), at 26" draw will be slower than at a 30" draw. Meaning, at 26" draw you may only see 250 fps, whereas with the 30" draw you may see 300 fps. Yet, the IBO for the model of bow (i.e. Hoyt Maxxis 31) will be rated at 320+ fps no matter what draw length or peak bow weight (limbs) you are purchasing.

2. IBO speed ratings are done with 30" draw length at 70 pounds using a light weight arrow. Thus, IBO ratings are not near what you will see for speed shooting a 27" draw length at 50lbs with a heavy hunting arrow.

3. Price of a bow has absolutely no bearing on speed.

4. You can get a 27" draw in any model of bow. Many bows that indicate they can go from 26-30" draw length mean that you actually have to purchase different modules to obtain those draw lengths on that bow. In the end, it shouldn't matter as you will be shooting your bow at 27" draw and the fact the particular bow is capable of being set at a 30" draw (or otherwise) is irrellevant.

5. Bows will perform their best when they are at their peak limb weight. I.e., a 60-70 lb bow is supposedly going to perform its best when set at 70lbs rather than at 60lbs. However, today's bows are built so that this factor is not going to be very noticeable. Really, this is not a huge deal now days. Where this could become true and become a potential problema is if a person tries to back out a bows limb bolts so far that they are dropping below the lowest weight for the bow (i.e. below 60 lbs on a 60-70 lb bow). Now days many bows will have up to 15 lbs of adjustment now days, so if you want to shoot a bow at 50lbs, you can buy a bow with a peak weight of 60lbs that adjusts down to 45 lbs approximately. I would never buy an adult bow with a peak weight of 50 lbs as it will be hard to re-sell with that low of a draw weight.

Hope this clears a few things up. The best thing you can do is get out and shoot a number of bows and pick the one that feels the best to you. At the specs you are discussing, no bow you buy will be a burner - you won't be close to 300 fps. So worry less about speed than a bow you can shoot accurately.

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Northwoods summed it up pretty good. Your not going to come even close to getting the IBO rated speed of the bow, especially with your draw length because like mentioned above all IBO speed tests are done with a 30 inch draw at 70 pounds using a 350 grain arrow. None of those are going to be in comfort range, every inch of draw you are losing around 10-15 fps, every pound you drop is around 1-2 fps i believe, and your hunting arrow is more than likely going to be over the 350 grain mark.

You are going to be losing about the same amount of speed becuase of those factors with any bow expensive or cheap, so really you probably will get a little more speed out of the high end bow but is the extra 10-15 fps really worth the extra $$$. I would just decide how much you really want to spend and find the bow that feels the best to you in that price range any not even worry about speed, if a recurve bow shooting under 200 fps can take down a deer really any compound bow you get is going to be shooting well above that mark and will have no problem taking down a deer. Like said above worry more about what bow you can shoot more accurately with than what bow is going to be a little bit faster.

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Well, northwoods and buckhunter really covered it. If you are looking for a faster bow, it is a good idea to look at IBO and assume that you're going to get about 20% less speed with a 50lb bow and 27"draw.

I understand that having as fast a bow as possible when shooting low weight is important. You get a flatter shot being the most important in my book. The factions of a second are less important, but if you can reduce the arc in your shot and extend your effective range, speed is a good thing.

The bow is quieter and absorbs more vibration when you've got it cranked to its max. I would say to try a 50-60lb bow and aim to build some strength so you can work towards 55lbs or more.

I shoot at 28" DL with a 60lb PSE Xforce. With my hunting arrow I still get 290fps. At this speed, I can shoot one pin out to 34yds without going more than 3" high or low.

If price is a concern than stick to your price point. All major bow companies have their "value-priced" bows in the $400 range. They are some of the same technology but maybe cheaper materials or slightly older design. Find the ones that feel the best and narrow your search till you're happy with it. A proper fit is most important.

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I would not worry about speed. The single biggest problem with bow hunters is thinking speed speed speed. STOP! Forget speed when you try and achive speed the first thing you do is start using a lighter arrow witch intern makes your bow LOUDER and creates more vibration Lighter arrows are also more affected by wind and you also lose kinetic energy more than can be made up for with speed. I have a 28 inch draw shooting 70# 420gr arrow at 270fps 5 pins and am good out to 70yds. and my bow is silent. I have shot over a hundred deer with a bow my farthest shot 35yds. the rest all under 20yds so how fast do you really need to be. my arrow reaches 20yds in .22222 seconds if thats not fast enough I give up.

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Yep, good info above. I really agree with bottom bouncer-- worry less about speed and more about KE and the weight of your arrow (heavy arrow = good, light arrows = less good; at least when it comes to shooting critters).

Shoot a nice, quiet bow that goes anywere over 200 fps and shoot it accurately- that'll kill deer with no problem.

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I won't sacrifice a heavy arrow for more speed. That being said, a 400 grain arrow is more than enough for any deer. I get 75 lb of kinetic energy and you need less than 50 for a deer.

Anything with more than 200 FPS and an arrow more than IBO will kill a deer. Heck, we all know many animals have died from far lighter equipment. So I think it comes back to what are you paying for? I say aim for the most speed you can get out of a bow that has no noise or vibration.

Remember in your cost that you will need to afford some of the extras like a sight, rest, quiver and wrist sling.

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Good advice above. Price isn't based on speed...it's more about smooth draw, low hand shock, quiet release, etc.

That said, I just got a new bow this summer and wasn't willing to drop the big money to buy a name. For a high quality bow in the $400-$600 range, I was very impressed with the Diamond/Bowtech lineup. I also found I much preferred the single cam bows...smoother draw all the way through.

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