Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Lawn Service too soon?


Mike Wallace

Recommended Posts

I came home today to the little sign in my yard and this note on the door:

"Sorry we missed you. Your lawn was treated today with a granular fertilizer. This will help with a early spring greenup. I recommend a first time short 2" mowing going back to a longer 3" cut height. The next application will control problem weeds and crabgrass. Thank you."

Now from what I have been reading, was this a waste of money? Is this advice correct in the opinion of those that know more than I do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plus, applications should be 5-6 weeks apart at the SOONEST. If they put down fertilizer today, they SHOULD be waiting until the second week of May for crabgrass preventer then.

At that point you've missed the window.

Was it a "Green" company?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plus, plus....

I don't understand the short mowing. There are different types of grass which get scalped in the spring, such as Bermuda or St. Augustine, I don't exactly remember which since we don't have it here in the cool season grasses.

Jefferyd can probably chime in a little on that, being from AZ and all.

The reason I can see for a customer to tell you that would be you'd be getting down into the stem of the grass blade, which would then cause your yard to be all "brown" and "look" like it really really greened up, when in fact you're just seeing the blade of the grass again.

Think of it of mowing over a mole hill, and skimming the grass shorter than usual. You'll see a "tan" spot in the grass, but it grows right back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep,

Little white and opaque pellets. 16-0-4, urea and potassium chloride. 3 lbs/1000 sq. feet, 11,000 sq. feet = 37 lbs.

I was concerned about this and it was on my list to call them to find out when they were starting...guess my list was too long.

The fert/preventer stuff I have no idea about, but I would have never, and will not, mow that close.

Last year, they did their first application on April 14, and it was fertilizer and preemergent combined. I am not feeling good about the schedule this year.

Yes, it was a "Green" service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in the fall, we scalp the bermuda to nearly the dirt and do a power rake to thin it out. then come in with a sand, fertilizer, rye grass mix. the sand holds and covers the seed so the rats with wings dont eat all the seed. then we water for no more than 3 min 5-6 times a day to keep everything wet, remembering that the air temp might be in the 80 or 90s still. biggest thing is that we water at night so the moisture can absorb. now in the spring, the rye will die off and normal mowing will help bermuda come in. now is the time to throw extra seed in bare spots, fert or ironite, and i put gypsum down to help open the soil so the water will seep in. In the winter i only water once a week, summer 3 times a day 9 pm, 3 am, and around noon to help cool off the grass and soil. Now is the time to put tree spikes in the ground for fertilizer and also to start our gardens. Our soil temps are about 67 now and with a warm up will be over 70.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep,

Little white and opaque pellets. 16-0-4, urea and potassium chloride. 3 lbs/1000 sq. feet, 11,000 sq. feet = 37 lbs.

I was concerned about this and it was on my list to call them to find out when they were starting...guess my list was too long.

The fert/preventer stuff I have no idea about, but I would have never, and will not, mow that close.

Last year, they did their first application on April 14, and it was fertilizer and preemergent combined. I am not feeling good about the schedule this year.

Yes, it was a "Green" service.

Well, you somewhat have them over a barrel.

If they applied at full rate, then they shouldn't have to reapply for at least 6 weeks. If they reapply in 3 weeks like they're going to say they need to, and they do that at the rate that's on the label, you're going to have (2) full rate applications overlapping and you're paying for product you don't need, or moreso, don't want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to me that all they were doing was spiking your account so you would renew this year. Did they contact you to see if you wanted it or just come out and do it? I think the pre-emergent is a total waste because it's so early that it will wash out or be ineffective when needed. I wouldn't pay for it and cancel the service.

For the pros out there - is something like this a violation of any of the rules?

The Green Squirters are a waste of money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not technically a violation of any law.

In my opinion it's a violation of common sense.

Mike, you can call, complain, and most likely get a free application.

It's not going to do much for your lawn, but that's beside the point now.

My point before has been this. In order for these companies to get 5-6 rounds of fertilizing in, they HAVE to start now, and even then be applying every 4-5 weeks.

If you're using a good fertilizer from a reputable source, you should be able to go 6-8 weeks between applications.

If you do the calculations at the end of the season, the big big companies are just as expensive as the smaller guys doing less applications.

Just because you're getting less applications, that doesn't mean your yard is going to be worse off.

Chances are it could be better.

Tom - if you reread the original post, they didn't put down any preemergent, they just put down a normal fertilizer, and the NEXT application would be for weeds and unwanted grasses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom - if you reread the original post, they didn't put down any preemergent, they just put down a normal fertilizer, and the NEXT application would be for weeds and unwanted grasses.

Sorry for the mistake, but I still think they're a rip off no matter what they put down. IMO if you can't find an hour to buy the stuff and spread it then you should concrete your yard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No Tom, that's not the right attitude to have. The right attitude to have is to support homeowners / cabinowners / landowners the proper way to care for and maintain their property.

Just as many would say your comment about concrete the whole yard, they would say that would produce ungodly amounts of runoff.

Just as last summer or the summer before, Quetico was on here touting the positives of no-mow fescues, and stating that you don't need as many chemicals and fertilizers.

We all have different wants, needs and abilities (not to mention wives, kids, families) that will allow different amounts of effort into our own yards.

If anyone saw my yard, they'd never believe I own a lawn service.

It's as bad as a yard can get. I just don't have the time, nor do I want to spend 3 hours on my own yard when I just got home from working 12 hours on others' yards.

I've actually hired people to finish landscaping projects on my own yard, as I just run out of time or energy to do them myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That about sums up things for me. With a 5 and 7 year old, the few hours after work or on a weekend are more valuable spending time with my kids than with my yard. I know that I could do it myself, but I don't want to.

It may be a "ripoff" to you, but when I don't have any dandilions all summer, it is worth it. Although it took about 3 years, they got rid of all the Creeping Charlie (well, as much as anyone can). I've been very happy with the service I have received.

I am glad to have a place to come and ask a question and get several answers from different perspectives. I value all of them.

Thanks, all, for your opinions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lawnman that is what mechanics say about their cars too, their buddies autos are fixed and in far better shape then their own cause we dont spend time on them. I would fix anyones auto or fire truck but my truck was beat up and on its last leg. sounds the same for the landscapers too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep,

Little white and opaque pellets. 16-0-4, urea and potassium chloride. 3 lbs/1000 sq. feet, 11,000 sq. feet = 37 lbs.

This only breaks down to .54 ponds per thousand. That is not a bad amount of nitrogen to put down in the spring. Compare this to over the counter fertilizer and majority of it is close to 1.0 pound per thousand.

You can not go by the fertilizer ratio on the bag, you need to do the math.

I do not use a lawn service, I do my own fertilizing and lawn care. I personally feel that this application was OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually work for the Big Green company, and if you have any questions and don't want any [PoorWordUsage], let me know, I'll give ya the straight up answers instead of sales pitch. laugh I've worked here for 5 years now and feel that I have a pretty good handle on what's going on in a lawn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always went with 4 treatments per year. If I had more than a few weeds or if the neighbors lawn was greener I would call and they would take care of it free of charge. Fish would u go with 4 treatments or 6? {wont be offended if u dont answer that.} The first time I fertilized my lawn I burnt it pretty bad on every corner, went with a lawn service after that for awhile, they did a nice job. Price got to high and to many phone calls from them to trim trees,bushes etc. Educated myself and doing my own, dandelions are actually a pretty flower-weed. grin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am thinking of killing all of my lawn and putting it in desert landscape, my wife would have my hide tho. I get so tired of mowing when it is 200 degrees and my water bill takes a hit in the summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SFC, you're good w/ 4 as long as you space them out correctly. Do them about 6-7 wks apart and then a late fall winterizer and you should be good to go. Just keep in mind that different lawns require different care. Try experimenting with something different every year until you get the results you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.