4-stroke oil change

[igotworms]

So I've decided I'm not gonna pay thru the nose anymore for oil changes on my 115 Yamaha. I'm gonna do them myself. Anything special I oughtta know...I've changed vehicle oil often, is it really much different?

[solbes]

Good, it's easier than changing a car. I have a Yamaha F75, so almost the same. I think you will need a 9/16" long socket. Possibly a oil filter wrench or set of large channel locks. I always have a tough time getting the filter off mine.

Warmup the engine for a few minutes first so you lower the viscosity some. My only real advice is to watchout for the oil coming down the chute. Layout plenty of newspaper in case you spill. I usually make the last few turns of the socket without the wrench. That way I can pull the plug/socket in one hand while holding the oil pan underneath with the other.

[srj]

As Solbes said, let it run for a bit. Then let it stand for a few minutes--helps drain some of the oil out of the filter. Make sure the motor is as vertical as possible. I cut a notch out of a plastic drain pan so I can slide the pan under the drain nipple and against the motor leg. Others make a drain hose to fit over the nipple so they don't have to hold the drain pan. Pack some paper towels beneath the oil filter to catch any spillage when removing. Remove the yellow oil FILL plug (yellow on my F115 anyway), lets it drain a bit faster. Remove the oil drain plug-13 or 14 mm-holding the pan with your off hand. It takes a few minutes if you intend on getting all the oil out. I wait until there is just a drip. Replace the plug and remove the filter. Remember to lightly oil the filter gasket and wipe clean the mating surface on the block. Wipe off any oil spillage, fill the crankcase and figure out what fishing stuff you need to buy with the money you saved!!

[minneman]

I use a hose large enough to go around the shoot the drain plug is in, I use a tarp strap and a bit of duct tape around the lower unit to hold the hose where I want it, its long enough to go into a bucket sitting on the ground. Now raise the motor all the way up. while horizontal, remove the plug, put the hose on the drain shoot (hold it there with the ductape) while holding the bucket with hose in it in one hand, lower the motor to verticle. wala no mess. I pack some paper towels under the filter then remove it after all the oil has been drained from the motor. a couple drops max to clean up.

[Northlander]

I tape a garbage bag on my lower unit under the oil hole and make it into a funnel with tape so all the oil poors down the bag into the container and doesnt get all over the lower unit/prop and get all over the floor. Since doing this its been very very easy.

I change my oil twice a summer because I use my boat daily. I run the Amsoil 4 stroke Marine in my Yamaha F115 and its working out great. Great trolling, starts good cold and just plain old runs great with it.

I also use Amsoil lower unit lube and their oil filters.

[BriGuy88]

I've been using a downspout extension (basically a 3' piece of plastic gutter) to route the oil from the drain plug on my Yamaha F150 to an oil pan on the ground. Has worked well for me with minimal cleanup. Definitely put some paper towels around the base of the filter before removing... keeps things much cleaner. I may have to try Northlander's garbage bag trick this year though... that's a good idear right there!

[igotworms]

Thanks alot guys. You've given me alot of ideas and info. Now I just need to wait for the snow to disappear so I can get the boat outta storage!!!

[Northlander]

Im sure I got that from someone on here a year or 2 ago. Works slick. Way less clean up time now.

[MuskieJunkie]

I also duct tape a funnel and hose under the spout and begin with the motor tilted up, then lower it as I go. If you start with the motor trimed down the oil comes out very fast.

[MuskieJunkie]

How much does the dealer charge for a synthetic oil change anyway? (hopefully I don't highjack this thread)

[igotworms]

C-P was gonna charge me an additional $60 when they winterized...

[CFRay]

I have the same motor as you and I've done it myself several times. A lot of good info. above from the others, I would add that the filter is a small size and getting the exact fit in a cup style wrench may take you a bit of time to find.

[SkunkedAgain]

Agreed. I bought a new Suzuki last year. I let the pros do my oil when it needed that first change, but then changed mine at the end of the season. I had two different filter caps and two different filter wrenches, and non of them worked on my motor. Make sure that you've got the right size and working space to get it out.

[caseymcq]

... I run the Amsoil 4 stroke Marine in my Yamaha F115 and its working out great. ...

Just out of curiosity, what does that run a quart? I bought Yamalube last spring and it was over $6/quart! I was thinking of going to Valvoline synthetic blend or full synthetic depending on what I find for prices. If the Amsoil is a better deal I may go that route.

How about the $ for the Amsoil filter?

[boatfixer]

Oil will run you about $8-9 per quart and a filter is right around $16.

Be sure to use oil formulated for marine use.

[WaveWacker]

My boat sits in heated storage at home and at some point in the winter I've usually changed the motor oil, etc. I was now told that I should be making sure that I change in the fall. Any thoughts??

[boatfixer]

You situation is probably a little different than most. Generally I would suggest the same thing, in the fall. Its a good time to get it over and done with and you have a chance to check for moisture or condensation. As long as you are winterizing anyway, why not change oil and filter.

Will it hurt in your case to do it sometime over the winter? No

[caseymcq]

Goooooood lowd dat's a lot ah money!

That would be $60+ for me to change the oil in my F75.

I think I am going to explore other synthetic or synthetic blend options first. My boat likely doesn't get nearly as many hours as some of yours do. Probably a fraction of what you guys do.

[MuskieJunkie]

It is a lot of money but hey it could be worse, my dad has a 225 Etec and pays about $40 or 50 per gallon of oil that he burns up in a couple weeks.

As the proprietor of Moosebirds on Vermilion says "you gotta pay to play boys".

[Northlander]

Get on their preferd customer program. Thats what I do and its about the same as any other oil and I believe its a much better product. Plus they are local for me, Superior Wi., and I like keeping my local buddies in a job.

[LMITOUT]

All you have to do is get a flexible hose that will fit inside the rubber nipple around the drain plug. I forget what size of tubing it is but it'll fit perfect and there is no need for covering the engine or anything else. Tilt the engine all the way up to pull out the drain plug and no oil will come out. Insert the rubber tubing and then tilt the engine down again to drain the oil into a pan or bucket via the tubing. Viola! Done.

[caseymcq]

I am all about keeping it local but I am also all about keeping myself out of the poor house

Really though, I don't think I put the hours on my outboard like you and some of the others here do to justify the cost. I change the oil once a year just to do it, regardless of the "milage" on it. My boat and my F75 are one of my babies but it just doesn't get that type of use.

[Northlander]

Then dont worry about synthetics just run the yamaha 4 stroke oil and you will be fine.