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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
perchking

Fall skid house build, all aluminum. Need input on runners

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Finally got the spray foam done, turned out ok. My goal initially and still is to just paint the inside to keep the weight down on the shack. I had him spray about 3 inches on the floor and 1.5 on the walls. There is a few places where the foam bulged but it's not to bad. Once the painting is done, I will put up cedar boards up for coat hangers, rattle reels etc... I think I am doing a light gray on the walls with a bright white on the celing. Then I just have to install catch covers, kids bunk, heater, etc...

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Nice foam work! Your on the way to having it on the ice this winter!  Are you going to throw in a few vents at the top ends? She looks pretty tight.

On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 0:06 AM, papadarv said:

This furnace has 2 pipes. The larger pipe about 4" is the air intake is supported through ring #29. The smaller pipe inside the larger pipe about 2" is the furnace exhaust connected through the larger ring #30 and screwed to the raised portion of ring #29. My furnace a vintage Hydro Flame Convection with dual direct vent, needed no power, and used a pilot light. Had the identical 2 pipe direct vent as yours. I built 2 rings similar to your drawing. Had 2 major issues:

1. Anytime the wind exceeded 20 mph, my pilot light would blow out even when the furnace side of my house was parked to the leeward side due to wind eddies.

2. At the exhaust cap which was about 1 3/4" from the side of the house would scorch the side surface above the cap and the moisture from burning Propane (1/2 pt. per 10#) would freeze on and below the exhaust when temp went -10 or below.

Second year I re-designed using the Pipe Cap photo 1 from Menards for under $10. I cut off the bottom half at the black line and cut a hole on the outside flat surface for the exhaust pipe. This was my fresh air intake. Also filled the inside of the cap with a disassembled expanded metal filter from a motor home stove top exhaust filter.

Photo 1

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Secured it to my house and ran the exhaust pipe through the hole in the end. Attached the exhaust pipe to a 2" x 3" aluminum gutter down spout used as a chimney. Photos 2 and 3. Totally solved my issues. You may also find a similar cap to photo 1 for the exhaust instead of the pipe. Most of the caps I was able to find had a 4" connection point so you would need to modify to 2" or whatever size you exhaust pipe is. How ever you do it, cover all openings with a screen to keep the Mud-daubers out as they love burned propane orifice area to build there nest.

Photo 2 & 3

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Hey, papa. What's the inside of that rig look like?

Edited by leech~~

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30 minutes ago, leech~~ said:

Nice foam work! Your on the way to having it on the ice this winter!  Are you going to throw in a few vents at the top ends? She looks pretty tight.

Hey, papa. What's the inside of that rig look like?

Do you recommend them leech? I do have 3 windows and the empire Heater will be vented. 

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1 hour ago, perchking said:

Do you recommend them leech? I do have 3 windows and the empire Heater will be vented. 

For sleeping at night I like at least the small round ones, one behind the heater to let in some fresh air to the burner and one at the other end top to let out any fums and moister that builds up.

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9 hours ago, leech~~ said:

For sleeping at night I like at least the small round ones, one behind the heater to let in some fresh air to the burner and one at the other end top to let out any fums and moister that builds up.

I am not real familiar with the Empire heaters, but aren't they a closed system like the suburban fan forced? I have never had and issues with moisture or fumes in my shack because the intake, exhaust, and heat chamber are completely sealed. There really shouldn't be any moisture, especially if you don't have a cook top.

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3 minutes ago, rl_sd said:

I am not real familiar with the Empire heaters, but aren't they a closed system like the suburban fan forced? I have never had and issues with moisture or fumes in my shack because the intake, exhaust, and heat chamber are completely sealed. There really shouldn't be any moisture, especially if you don't have a cook top.

If he has a sealed vented fresh air in, exhaust out heater and a few windows to let out the smoked fish, farts and cigar smoke. He may be good to go! :lol:

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10 minutes ago, rl_sd said:

I am not real familiar with the Empire heaters, but aren't they a closed system like the suburban fan forced? I have never had and issues with moisture or fumes in my shack because the intake, exhaust, and heat chamber are completely sealed. There really shouldn't be any moisture, especially if you don't have a cook top.

That what I thought also, this heater is vented and the reason I bought it was because it was a bit safer per the reviews and to eliminate the condensation.  I have a empire direct vent DV-215.

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We have a similar heater and havent had issue with moisture.  If you run a tipup and have a decent bite just opening and closing the door from time to time gives you a ton of air.  If it gets to stuffy at night we just crack a window for a few, it can get chilly in a hurry if your to close to where the vent is.  Plus I like a little moisture in the house, those force air furnaces can really dry things out in a hurry and nothing worse than prickly snot in the nose!  If your not putting T&G on the walls moisture is less of an issue for you because you wont have to worry about any expanding there.

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On ‎8‎/‎31‎/‎2017 at 9:19 PM, leech~~ said:

Nice foam work! Your on the way to having it on the ice this winter!  Are you going to throw in a few vents at the top ends? She looks pretty tight.

Hey, papa. What's the inside of that rig look like?

@leech Its only a 6 hole fishing house, not a sleeper. I choose to get a cabin on overnight trips, take the house off the lake each night connect A/C for overnight heat and have a warm cleaning house. Take-down is only about 5 min after rods and chairs are secured. Have 2 windows I crack open if fresh air is needed. Have CO detector on ceiling. Added a lot of features since my 2013 build.

Front view. Furnace is an old convection heater upgraded to 15k-BTU I added forced air modifications - 4 speed fan from a E350 Van. Small bump on the air duct contains 3 additional 12V computer fans as heat maintainer at low current. 

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Back view. drop down cleaning table on right. 

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Inside the box attached on front, reduced noise volume 900W generator enclosure. Everything inside runs on 12VDC. Added the generator to charge batteries as needed and make my coffee. 

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Just added a Fish Cam video Monitor. (Old Computer Monitor configured for S-Video). It runs on 36 watts so I use a 100 watt Ac to Dc inverter of very little DC power. 

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My added down and out flip attached to the door side of the house for added fishing space. My Son fishing in second photo. Also has a drop down table on the right of the pic.

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14 hours ago, perchking said:

That what I thought also, this heater is vented and the reason I bought it was because it was a bit safer per the reviews and to eliminate the condensation.  I have a empire direct vent DV-215.

Correct, its a dual vented heater with both intake air and exhaust from the outside. Photo of the parts and air/exhaust path. Air in through the larger diameter pipe #26 and Exhaust out through smaller pipe #27.

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Pic of the unit installed air/exhaust flow.

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On 9/1/2017 at 10:34 PM, papadarv said:

@leech Its only a 6 hole fishing house, not a sleeper. I choose to get a cabin on overnight trips, take the house off the lake each night connect A/C for overnight heat and have a warm cleaning house. Take-down is only about 5 min after rods and chairs are secured. Have 2 windows I crack open if fresh air is needed. Have CO detector on ceiling. Added a lot of features since my 2013 build.

Front view. Furnace is an old convection heater upgraded to 15k-BTU I added forced air modifications - 4 speed fan from a E350 Van. Small bump on the air duct contains 3 additional 12V computer fans as heat maintainer at low current. 

20170901_215812.thumb.jpg.2a1aa10d918fa72dcfca9e29740eb738.jpg

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Back view. drop down cleaning table on right. 

 

Inside the box attached on front, reduced noise volume 900W generator enclosure. Everything inside runs on 12VDC. Added the generator to charge batteries as needed and make my coffee. 

20170822_125630.thumb.jpg.2d333fc1d1cb658be02a2df8f06ea84b.jpg

Just added a Fish Cam video Monitor. (Old Computer Monitor configured for S-Video). It runs on 36 watts so I use a 100 watt Ac to Dc inverter of very little DC power. 

20170807_144806.thumb.jpg.cc8cd5ee8fd387b1a411a2896c62426d.jpg

My added down and out flip attached to the door side of the house for added fishing space. My Son fishing in second photo. Also has a drop down table on the right of the pic.

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Very cool I was wondering what was inside the bump on the side. I think it's always nice to see what other guys rig up. If it can fit a cot I would give an over night go! :)

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Holes are cut, next steps include:

 

  • Internal painting (planning on just a water based latex interior paint, unless I hear otherwise)
  • Install of coin rubber flooring, then secure hole covers
  • Install heater and thermostat
  • Install solar or stand along battery powered lights
  • Install rain splash guards over (3) windows and exhaust so the sliding snow doesn't effect operation
  • Install furniture
  • Install cedar accessory backing for rattle reels, hangers, etc...

I am sure there are items I am missing, if you know of something please alert me!

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Let the flooring heat up a bit before you lay it if you can.  Ours expanded and caused a couple ripples once in.  Shouldn't be terrible to fix but still a headache going back. also if your not running the flooring up the walls at all it may not be a bad idea to prime the wood floor in case any water gets around the flooring and seeps through.  Minimal cost for extra protection.

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2 hours ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

Let the flooring heat up a bit before you lay it if you can.  Ours expanded and caused a couple ripples once in.  Shouldn't be terrible to fix but still a headache going back. also if your not running the flooring up the walls at all it may not be a bad idea to prime the wood floor in case any water gets around the flooring and seeps through.  Minimal cost for extra protection.

good suggestion, I will do that.

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I have been trying to install the rubber coin flooring, seems impossible to get it tight with the fluctuation of temps. If this was your would u just rhino line the floor of lay the coin flooring down? 

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5 minutes ago, perchking said:

I have been trying to install the rubber coin flooring, seems impossible to get it tight with the fluctuation of temps. If this was your would u just rhino line the floor of lay the coin flooring down? 

What about vinyl planking? 100% water proof and won't mold. Man really like the house you got going, would love to see some pine on the walls to finish the inside.

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29 minutes ago, perchking said:

I have been trying to install the rubber coin flooring, seems impossible to get it tight with the fluctuation of temps. If this was your would u just rhino line the floor of lay the coin flooring down? 

I think the Rhino liner being a little rough may grab your feet when walking on it and could cause a trip. The coins can to but not as bad. :2c:

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1 hour ago, Agronomist_at_IA said:

What about vinyl planking? 100% water proof and won't mold. Man really like the house you got going, would love to see some pine on the walls to finish the inside.

I may in the future but I am really just trying to keep the weight down. I will see how it fishes this year, I did paint the inside a Off gray and added some cedar boards for hooks, etc. 

48 minutes ago, leech~~ said:

I think the Rhino liner being a little rough may grab your feet when walking on it and could cause a trip. The coins can to but not as bad. :2c:

I think I will just go with the rubber flooring, I already bought it and have cut it to fit. Now I guess I just need to trim it and use aluminum flat stock to keep it into place. 

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We had deckover on our(similar texture to rhino) and then put in the coin.... Coin is a lot nicer imo because it seems to dry quicker.  Stretch it between the holes then when you screw the hole mounts down it holds the middle tight... little movement on the outsides but hasnt been terrible.

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I have to stop procrastinating, ice will be here before I know it! I made a little progress lately, I painted the inside, installed cedar accessory boards and thermostat and hopefully by this weekend have the rubber flooring down. I also ordered the termination cap for the furnace, should be seeing that in the next week or so. I also have a custom cushion being built to fit my bench seating. Got a question on rattle reels, I am looking at the all aluminum ultimate  rattle reels. Anybody use them? They seem a little spendy but not too concerned about the price, looking to see if there are any reviews out there. If those don’t seem to fit your need, what other brands have u used and feedback on them would be nice also. I will take some pics this weekend for a quick update.  

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Still have the cushions and bench seat to figure out, other than that the only thing I am waiting on is the termination cap for the furnace and I should be ready for ice plus a few rattle reels and rod holders.  Just in time as well, looks like the weather is going to be favorable over the next few weeks for us that like ice.  This is only a day house and will stay at my cottage, the bunk didn’t turn out as big as I would have hoped but my 11,8,5 year old's thoroughly think I am wrong, they love it.  I think for lights I am just going to buy some battery powered solar pucks to see how they work.  Being that I used house windows, I was worried about the nailing flange icing up so I cut some 4" angle and welded in some "V's" so the snow doesn't slide down and accumulate on top of the windows I will need to do the same for the termination cap.

 

Any input is appreciated.

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