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Arrow issues, need advice!


BRULEDRIFTER

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Again, just because you shoot a bullet hole thru paper, doesnt mean you bow is in tune. Enough said.

Back to your question,I guess I'm kind of a perfectionist (sp?) when it comes to tuning a bow. I'm not happy till my bow is perfectly tuned so yes, I will make the changes until my BH's shoot the same as my FP's but that's just me.

Hey, if your BH hits where you aim, good for you.

Good luck DonBo and everyone else!

Archer Dave out!

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I AGREE ABOUT THE SPLINE, BUT ALSO ONE THING YOU MIGHT CONSIDER IS ARE YOUR ARROWS & INSERTS. IF THE ARROWS WEREN'T SQUARED OFF ON THE END WHEN TRIMMED TO SIZE IT CAN CAUSE A WOBBLE WITH THE BROADHEADS. THE ONE YEAR I SHOT ALL SUMMER LONG AND COULD SHOOT SPOT ON OUT TO 40 YARDS I PUT ON MUZZY BROADHEADS AND WOULD SHOOT 5 INCHES TO THE RIGHT. EVERY SHOT. I HAD CUT MY OWN ARROWS.

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Doesn't everyone know that if you have problems with fixed blade broadheads not hitting with your fieldpoints you should just change to mechanicals. This only works with Rage though. : )

FYI! For those that can't figure it out- I'M JUST KIDDING!!!!

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Originally Posted By: DonBo
This isn't going to be a popular answer as most think field points and bh's should fly the same, they often don't. Use the 300's and move your site. Assuming the new arrows fly good your problem is solved.

This is probably the worst advice given on here so far. All broaheads can be tuned to shoot the same as your field points. With your 300's right now, your arrows are not flying true. What I mean by this is they are not flying "straight as an arrow" pardon the pun. The are wobbling in the air and your vanes are not able to correct the flight. By just moving your sight to correct point of impact will do just that move POI. You will suffer loss of penetration because when the arrow enters the intended target, it is entering at an angle and will lose kinetic energy quicker. What you need to do is tune the bow for your broadheads, very simple to do and only requires a few minor adjustments. I would contact your local dealer and they will help you with that. Or you can shoot the 400's now seeing they are shooting the same as your field points and work on the 300's at a later date.

Also, you did not down size your arrows from 400's to 300's. The 300's are a stiffer and heavier arrow than the 400's and are more suited to the specs you are currently shooting.

Good luck and keep the wind in your face.

Archer Dave

Am I reading this right? A 300 is stiffer and heavier?

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I'll give you a good example, not to steal the thread. I switched to Carborn Exspress Maxiams 250's with the 2" Blazer vines, from Bemanns IC 400 hunter, that had 4" vanes. Big change. My first shot hit the dirt with a target tip. After adjusting everything back in, it hit dead on. Both target and broadhead hit in the same place. They didn't do that with the IC 400.

This was a "big" change for me, but I will not look back to the way "MY" bow was shooting the IC 400. Just by changing arrows, they went from not shooting feild tips and broadheads togather to being dead on.

All arrows are different. Shoot what is right for your bow, and adjust accordenly. Stick with them!

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Sorry for the earlier question. Until this year I have shot Carbon Express CX300's. Guess I'm just too used to their #'s, which do not correlate to the spine spec as Easton's do. CE's 300 series are lighter and have more deflection than their 400's. Actually they don't make the 300's anymore so I switched to Gold Tip 5575's. pretty similar results.

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