Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Best Ice Cleats?


fishinalot

Recommended Posts

I got a pair of Stabilicers Lite at Cabela's in Rogers during their early morning Black Friday sale. Go on quick and really worked slick (pun intended) on Friday checking ice thickness. They could use a tab at the heel for pulling them on, tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i could probably use a pair of ice cleats after taking about 10 spills on the ice this weekend. We werent moving the shack the shack was moving us! crazy.gif It was terrible with the driving snow and gusty winds. We tryed to move the clam junior without folding it down only about 40 yards and it took us 45 minutes and a few broken bones lol jk. But it was really bad out there i think i will take your advice and look into them...

Later,

Ryan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of Artic Spurs. I have a pair of $50 stabilicers also but like the artic spurs much better. The stabilicers are harder to put on and they move around alot, but grip very well. The Artic Spurs are super quick and easy to put on and take off, grip good and are very inexpensive at $15. I don't use my stabilicers anymore. The Artic Spurs fit into the arch of the boot so they will fit a large size boot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put about 30-40 1/2" sheet metal screws into the lugs of my boots with a cordless drill in about ten minutes or less. It works great, you can run sprints out on the ice. The only down fall is you can't just take them out whenever you want(well you can but you need a cordless drill), and they are slippery on lanolium(sp) floors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do the same as Guppy...sheet metal screws with 1/4" hex heads .. I've found 10 or 12 per boot to be more than enough. Incredible how well it works. Only thing I'll use. You can get them 7/16 if you're concerned about going through sole btw.

Was out on a warm day last winter wearing a pair of boots I hadn't studded..well.. managed to slip and crash of course (clumsy 60 year old codger). Right on my StrikeMaster. Broke 2 or 3 ribs..ouch. Learned my lesson. blush.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Stabilicers are worth every penny IMO if you can find a size that fits your boots perfectly. I have a pair that fit my size 10 boots like a glove and I love them. I probably wear them half of the winter, even if there is snow on the ice.

With the Stabilicers, you can go from ice cleats to no ice cleats in the matter of a few seconds and not destroy a pair of boots in the process running screws into the soles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I didn't know better,I'd say you might have looked at my profile.LOL! Yes, I am one of the thousands of Cliff Claven types wearing stabilicers on the route.They issue them to us because they work.Period.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surprised to hear the Yak Trax didn't fit. I have been using a pair for the last 2 years and I put them on a pair of size 12 Sorel Dominators.

Did you get the Yak Trax Pro or just the regular Yak Trax? I believe the Pro line has one that fits 14.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a lack of ice cleats for big pac boots...

So far probably the artic spurs is the only thing that can almost universally fit, being it just goes in the grooves of your boots. You can get some real ice cleats, rock climber stuff or snow shoes. Other than that customize...lots of ideas like aforementioned sheet metal screws, even a coat hanger with small copper wire wrapped around it works, and tie it on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a pair of Yak Traks last year- the grip was awesome on them, the only problem is they didn't hold up real well. my sorels have a pretty agressive tread pattern, with a sharp corner at the edge, ( in contrast to many of the pack boots that are rounded in profile with shallow tread) and the rubber actully ripped in a couple of places. I'm just going with some old school boot chains this year.

Grant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for the Stableicers. I've used many types, but these were the best in terms of grip, stability, and most importantly, durability. I'd go through a pair a season, sometimes more if little snow on the ice for periods of time.

To answer the question about fitting over Mickey Mouse boots, call up the mfr. They sell extender straps for cheap to make them fit over almost anything (like my size 12 old-school Ice Kings).

Joel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have worn them over size 13 Sorel pac boots, and my standard size 13 Rocky work boots.The straps do adjust a bit with velcro strips,allowing for some extra room.Walking on new ice and using them is one thing,but try walking on a newly painted porch with fresh snow on top.That is slipperyness of a whole different caliber.Work is so much easier when using the stabilicers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Call me a cheap skate, but I have a cheap pair of Get A Grip Ultras- I love them. Not expensive, plus the cleats are non-aggresive enough you can leave them on in the portable and it doesn't hurt the plastic floors of a suitcase style.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last 2 years I have gotten the HT cleats. SG2 I beleive...They go on my size 13 rocky hunting boots no problem, as well as my large, almost military sized pac boots. They just take a little finessing to get them over the toe of the pac boots. They have to metal triangles underneath instead of the removable tips, but i have yet to slip and fall so they do work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.