Humidifiers, which is a good one ?

[Valv]

Does anybody have any knowledge about humidifiers ? I just bought a Honeywell decent model, supposed to be for 2 rooms and I just use it in my bedroom but I don't feel any difference. It does go through 2 full tanks/day but I don't see/feel the benefits.

[sparcebag]

We have a White/Westinghouse with two 2&1/2 gal. tanks,there empty every morn.It has a humistat control and even set low it very seldom stops.I think its just real dry air + the furnace burns up alot of moisture.We put a mister in the bedrm.In there we dont have dried out noses,but other areas we do,So my conclusion is we need more moisture,but then we'd need a larger (ours is big)humidifier or another.What to do??

[FRESHWATER PETIE]

The April-air unit that goes right on your forced air furnace would be the way to go. Every time your furnace runs a cycle it will put moist air into your whole house. Installing it requires a water line to your furnace, so no more filling tanks. It's adjustable too. If your windows start fogging up you just turn the dail down a bit.

[Walleye Guy]

I agre with FPete. We installed an AprilAire one a few years ago and it makes a big difference. Change/clean the filter and you are good to go. If its still to dry crank it up a little. Once you get moistue on the inside of your windows back it off a little. Well worth the investment.

[DTro]

Along the same lines, I installed a Honeywell whole house (furnace mount) a couple of years ago. Works great.

Which reminds me, I need to crank it up a bit, it's getting quite dry.

[Valv]

I was considering the furnace mount but I was afraid of buildup in the ducting and mold growth.

[Nutty Fisherman]

it's pretty hard to add that to electric baseboard heat

[bottomdweller]

I also have the april aire, love it. No more waking up with a clogged head. No filling of water.

[Roofer]

One thing that works is, open your door and go outside or open a window for little bit. Cold air/warm air....there we go, moisture.

With houses so air tight now and forced air, it does get dry. Adding moisture to the air makes it more comfortable for humans, but not good for the house or anything in it.

IMO, some of this contributes to some of the mold problems we all have in the newer homes. If you have enough moisture to sweat up your windows, imagine what it's doing to the walls...poly, sheetrock, mud, paint, wood.

This stuff is getting tough to engineer and yet be comfortable.....hmmmmmm

[DTro]

I guess I really jinxed myself on this one. Fired up the Honeywell, and for some reason, the water won't stop, it's a slow but steady and constant stream down the drain tube.

any ideas?

Sorry bout the hijack Val.

[sparcebag]

My guess is a check valvefloat stuck.

[DTro]

Quote:

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My guess is a check valvefloat stuck.

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That was my thought too, I only see one "valve looking" piece so I will start there.

[Surface Tension]

dtro, you should have a float and valve. I'd guess the valve has mineral deposits and causing a leak.

[reddog]

Valv,

Not trying to preach to ya, but....

have you checked into what is causing your house to dry our so badly? Winter dry down is caused by air leakage, plain and simple.

While the exterior air may be high in humidity say, 70-80%, when its outside at ten degress, when it leaks or is sucked into your home by stack effect, the cold moist air, becomes warm dry air, because the rh remains static, while the volume of air increased, because of the warming. What was once, one cubic foot of ten degree 70%rh air outside, is now 4 cu feet of 68 degree air, with a rh of 18%, which is very dry. These are just guestimates with the numbers, but that is what happens during winter drydown.

Finding one large bypass leakage area, could substantially increase your humidity level inside your home, much like simply siding and tyvek increased the humidity levels of the home in one of the prior posts on this board. Simple, easy fixes, can usually be found, if youre willing to go looking for them. It could be an open soffits into the attic space. An open cieling in a chimney chase, or even a loose fitting attic access hatch etc. Simply repairing these most time known leaks, can improve/raise the humidity levels to a more comfortable level, without the means if mechanical humidification. ..Just something to think about... Good luck.

[DTro]

Quote:

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dtro, you should have a float and valve. I'd guess the valve has mineral deposits and causing a leak.

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I haven't had time to look it over good, but I don't think I have a float. Basically a moist filter with a sail switch in the plenum.

Just thinking here, but maybe the sail switch is stuck open.